Pentax Photography - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Please, which camera model? Are we talking about the external flash or one built in? If it is built in the camera may think there is not enough light thus setting the flash to fire. That is what auto does, it takes all the decisions away from the camera operator.

The preview lamp is probably burned out. Replace lamp with a #1385 28volt single contact bayonet base lamp.

Here is a link to the MZ-7 camera manual. Page 15 details how to remove the lens. Hope that helps, BAX

Search "K1000 battery cover" on eBay and you'll see several listed. Hope that helps, BAX

I can find no reference to this model, 'Pentax Gorgeous'. Sorry.

Take the lens off, is the mirror stuck up? If it is then thats why you cant see through the view finder. It should come down after you take a photo.You can try to gently push the mirror down. This is caused by the mirror box warping due to heat or being dropped. Try it a few times and if it still sticks, more expensive to get fixed than the camera is worth so look for a 'new' camera on ebay. do not spray anything like CRC or WD40 into it, makes things worse.

I think the 'o____' is intended as a pictorial representation of a roll of 35mm film, the 'E' signifying an error in loading it. Not used this particular Pentax model myself, but some of them have a slot in the take-up spool where the 'tongue' of the film should be inserted - is that the case with yours ?

It is designed to use 35 mm film DX coded from 25 through 5000. Film can be slide film, B&W, and color negative film.

Pull up on the rewind knob ( left side ) to open the film door. put film cassette in chamber then lower rewind knob and pull enough film leader to the take up spool. attach film to spool. close the film door then advance the film to #1 on the counter.

If you press the film release button like you are going to rewind exposed film you may be able to activate the film advance lever to cock the camera so you can take another picture, and the film should stay on the first exposure allowing you to re - expose it. I would underexpose each image 1 F stop because.you are exposing the same film twice. Double exposures are always an iffy proposition and anything can happen. After the second exposure cocking the film advance should allow the film to advance once again. You might test this on the final pictures on a roll in case the camera won't start advancing the film after you try it. This way you won't blow a whole roll worth of pictures testing it.

The image is directed by the lens to a mirror then to a prism then to the viewfinder. The mirror flips up when you take a picture so the image can reach the film behind it. If the lens is ok it is possible that the mirror is very dirty or not returning completely to the proper position after a picture is taken. If the mirror is dirty you should have it professionally cleaned because it is a very light weight metal mirror and VERY EASILY SCRATCHED. If you have another lens then mount it and see if it is also blurry and cannot be focused. A few cameras like certain Olympus models have a mirror lock up option which you use after focusing the image while the camera is on a tripod. This gets rid of the slight vibration caused by the mirror swinging up out of the way while taking. a picture. If all else fails you might consider taking it to a good camera shop if you can find one. Digital cameras are getting better and better but there are still things film cameras can do that most digitals cannot. Long exposures in "Bulb" mode and multiple exposures are among these. Also each brand of film has it's own Artistic color expression such as Afgachrome vs. Kodachrome.

I really loved your camera type though it was 35 years ago I had one. I envy you. Not sure why you should be having trouble unless you have a bad film. Have you tried more than one film? If the film cassette has dropped in properly and is laying flat, the film rewind has to be raised, I think, to allow that and the sprocket holes in the film are properly engaged with the sprockets and the free end of the film engaged onto the film wind-on reel then everything should be well below the door aperture. I would wind on maybe a frame and fire the shutter prior to closing the film door just to observe everything moving as it should and then close the door. The last quarter inch the door must be closed against the pressure of a spring but if the little spring-loaded device behind the door which is intended to keep the film perfectly flat against the camera body is working correctly only a light pressure will be needed to compress those springs and close the door. Perhaps something is wrong there? I don't remember any problems closing the film door. I hope this helps but if it doesn't please come back again and describe your actions and the feel of the door more fully.

The MZ-60 takes a CR2 Lithium Photo Battery, available at most hardware stores, pharmacies and online at Amazon.com.

The Pentax K-1000 film camera doesn't have a pop-up flash.