Patton Electric Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Heater stop working found small metal piece with plastic with hook

This heater was the determined cause of my total loss house fire. I thought the company would atleast help me find some where else to live, they seem to care. But, as of lately they are doing nothing.
I am told this heater-(prh11- 2008 model- purchased at walmart for about $27.00)
- Had wiring that wasn't up to standards
-1/10,000 units cause fires
-something wrong with the heating element-stops working
- wouldn't stand level
-heating coils
-fires like mine have happened to a few other people
This came directly from a person at Jarden corporation(aka patton-sunbeam)

Under the main black knob is a bi-metal switch which shuts down the heat at various temps depending on your setting. Their is no timer. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

TRI-COLOR (DSI LED) DIAGNOSTIC TABLE No. of Red BLINKS 1 Flame sensed when no flame should be present Verify the gas valve is operating and shutting down properly. Flame in burner assemble should extinguish promptly at the end of the cycle. Check orifices and gas pressure. 2 BLINKS Pressure switch stuck closed/ inducer error Pressure switch stuck closed. Check switch function, verify inducer is turning off. 3 BLINKS 1st-stage pressure switch stuck open/inducer error Check pressure switch function and tubing. Verify inducer is turning on the pulling sufficient vacuum to engage switch. 4 BLINKS Open limit switch Verify continuity through rollout switch circuit. 5 BLINKS Open rollout/open fuse detect Verify continuity through rollout switch circuit, check fuse. 6 BLINKS 1st-stage pressure switch cycle lockout If the first stage pressure switch cycles 5 times (open, closed) during one call for heat from the thermostat the control will lockout.Check pressure switch for fluttering, inconsistent closure or poor vacuum pressure. 7 BLINKS External lockout (retries exceeded) Failure to sense flame is often caused by carbon deposits on the flame sensor, a disconnected or shorted flame sensor lead or a poorly grounded furnace. Carbon deposits can be cleaned with emery cloth. Verify sensor is not contacting the burner and is locatedin a good position to sense flame. Check sensor lead for shortingand verify furnace is grounded properly. 8 BLINKS External lockout (ignition recycles exceeded where flame is established and then lost)Check items for exceeded retries listed above and verify valve is not dropping out allowing flame to be established and then lost. 9 BLINKS Grounding or Reversed polarity Verify the control and furnace are properly grounded. Check and reverse polarity (primary) if incorrect. 10 BLINKS Module gas valve contacts energized with no call for heat Verify valve is not receiving voltage from a short. If a valve wiring is correct and condition persists, replace module. 11 BLINKS Limit switch open - possible blower failure overheating limit Possible blower failure, restricted air flow through appliance or duct work. Verify continuity through limit switch circuit and correct overheating cause. 12 BLINKS Module Ignitor contact failure Fault code indicates the module ignitor contacts are not functioning properly. Replace module.Solid Module - internal fault condition Module contacts for gas valve not operating or processor fault. Reset control. if condition persists replace module. 3 double 2nd-stage Pressure Switch Stuck Open/Inducer Error Check pressure switch function and tubing. Verify inducer.

It's rating upto 4 out of 5 stars

Bushings, motor needs to be replaced.

As the manual push buttons don't work, it is possible the remote and receiver are working ok and the fault is elsewhere on the pcb and is perhaps something your local tv and radio repair shop could tackle. The motor speed control is probably achieved by electronic rather than electrical methods and it would be more practical to repair the existing system than to attempt modification - finding a suitable 4-position switch capable of reliable operation with an inductive load of nearly 3 amps (plus safety margin) presents one problem, matching it to a method of speed control and installing it neatly and safely is quite another. Practically speaking and considering the low cost of imported fans, such a conversion is not worth carrying out. There is a worthwhile alternative however... In the old days there was a ready market for an easy method of controlling the speed of small electric motors and the introduction of the diac and triac and the thyristor made it possible and soon the papers and magazines filled with adverts such as "Control Drill Speeds". That was just the beginning as the success of such devices spawned a host of power controllers and dimmer switches in steps or continuously with just a single control. You could construct such a device from one of the many available project circuits or buy a power controller ready built. A good one is not cheap but should last a long, long time. A standard dimmer switch might handle the job but dimmer switches aren't usually suitable for an inductive load. I hope I have provided food for thought and further research. Good luck!

seems to be normal, check link video below Patton Heater

I have a metal blade for the Patton U2-20 fan listed on ebay. The item number is 160273949463 and the listing ends on Wednesday August 27 at 10.00 p.m. I had this fan for 8 years and the motor has failed. Patton could not replace the motor since this is a discontinued item, and I figured that someone could use another blade for their fan. I hope this helps you!

this might help. http://www.ehow.com/how_7766278_wire-electric-fan-motor.html

they are, but tend to be costly and timely to replace. The cost of replacing the fan will be very small over buying a new motor