Patton Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

I have a RD125T heater. At first it would run for a while and shut down. Turn it off and back on it would do the same. Now when it is turned on it acts as if the switch was being turn off and on. Sometimes the heater will fire for a second then shuts down. Most of the time it just shuts down, Forest

It is typical for the elements to glow. The glowing is caused from the high amount of electrical flow through the coils. It is the same principal of how some light bulbs work.

How did you pay for the heater? Cash, credit card, or check? What store did you buy it from?

If you paid by credit card, some stores can look the purchase up. Some stores will accept returns for an equal exchange based on lookup of the charge.
If by check, you can get a copy of the canceled check from your bank. Take the copy with the heater to the store that you bought it, and they will likely allow an exchange.

If you paid by cash, you can contact the manufacturer, and he will ask you for the date code or serial number of the unit (he will tell you where to look). You can then discuss with them how to proceed to have the unit repaired or replaced.

go to lowes and get a universal one

Not worth fixing. Take $20 and buy a new one.

u can get a replace blade from hard wares and fan shops also try ebay and oztion

I have one of these pieces of junk. The motor swarmed, so the rest of the fan is perfect. I'll sell it for $10.00 plus shipping.
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I just want to know if I can purchase a NEW motor and what the cost is?

is this a realtively new heater or just come out of storage? Chances are, if it hasn't been run in a while that it is just burning off some of the dust on the heater coils. Or possibly some of the chemicals used during the assembly of the product is risidual on the coils. Let it run for a few hours while keeping a close eye on it. I'm sure the smell will go away eventually. Keep an eye on it because if I'm wrong it could pose a potential fire risk.

The red light is in conjunction with a safety. This is there in case something goes wrong, the heater doesn't overheat and possibly catch fire. If its not getting too hot, and its sounds like its not. The safety needs to be replaced. It will be a little disc shaped thing with 2 wires connected to it. If this heater also has a tip over safety, there also may be some type of mercury switch too. If you are so inclined, when you find the safety disc it should have some numbers on it. This indicates the temperature it is made to turn off at. After removing it, connect the 2 wires together and turn the unit on with a thermometer in the spot where the disc was. If the temp. doesn't go higher than the #'s on the disc after 45 seconds like you said, then you know positively that is the problem. If it gets hotter very fast, then the elements need to be looked at for defects. If there are no numbers on the disc or you cant find a replacement, then it may just be easier to buy a new heater.

MILKHOUSE HEATER "CAUTION LIGHT" SOLUTION: Before I explain, let me clear this myth up: this is NOT an issue with the pendulum safety switch (some mistake that for a "mercury" switch). To begin, unplug the heater. Open it up and clean it out. I mean, buy a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and squirt all of the contacts good. Below the fan there is a sensor mounted on the heater element box on the bottom. That goes bad and causes it to trip. While you are there, squirt the motor bushings good with the brake cleaner and dab a drop of synthetic motor oil (just a drop) on EACH of the two motor bushings. Personally, I rewired this and bypassed all of the safety features. You can bypass that sensor without soldering or cutting any wires. All you have to do is unscrew the wires from the holder and then unscrew the tiny nuts and tiny bolts. Then bolt the together at one end (note the position) and put it back in the holder and tighten the screw to hold it in. This method fixes the issue completely as it removes the sensor from the equation. In fact, I just did that on my third milkhouse heater and it has been running solid for the last 15 minutes. Use your modified heater with caution! Let the brake cleaner dry before you energize this device!

Usually this means dirt/dust/debris has gotten into the bearings. Needs a lube job.

the heating coil may be broken and shorting out to the case. it is a nichrome resistance wire. replace it.

check that the rocker switch inside isn't stuck, when the rocker swings it shuts the unit off. if it is full of dust it may be stuck. may just be bad.

These fans have a safey feature (sensor) that shuts the heater off if it is tipped over. It sounds like this component is not functioning correctly - may be set wrong and will not allow the heater to turn on unless you shake it to reset the sensor. If it is still under warranty return heater, if not call Patton and ask for help.

Well its 1 of 2 things either the winding is bad in which case you'd smell a sicky burning chemical smell, or the bearings have seized. I'm guessing the bearings are bad, there probably getting the winding too hot causing itself to short out. If its a cheap Walmart bought fan then just replace it, if not you can take it apart yourself pretty easily. You may have trouble getting the bearings of the shaft, i use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel on it, just try not to cut into the shaft, you can crack it with a hammer after your almost through then they usually just slide off. Then swing up to a bearing store they'll probably just be a couple of bucks a piece(tell them you don't care what class they are just gimme the cheapest except dolly bearings, and bring the old ones with you). Then get a piece of pipe that matches the "inner race", and carefully hammer them onto the same part of the shaft(mark it prior if there is no bearing shoulder), if there are copper wires running through the laminations (if there are any) on the shaft, tape a rag around them to prevent damage. If any of the wires are damaged on the inside of the motor go buy a new one, it'll cost several hundred to rewind it.