Patton Heating & Cooling - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Look you need to contact Patton Heaters directly and let them know about their faulty product. While you are at it give that son of yours a big hug and kiss and let him know how much you really love him. This site is people like myself giving helpful hints on repairing products we are not a part of Patton or are we affiliated with them. Consumers affairs may be worth your while as well, try Better Business too. You are very fortunate to have this out come.

These heaters all have safety devises in them some for tip over and all for over heating. Your problem sounds as if it has a bad over heating sensor. These will have two wires one in one out, it is usually a positive wire. When they sense that the heater is to hot it shuts it down upon cooling it allows the heater to turn back on. The tip switch does the same if upright it turns on if tipped it turns it off. They are mechanical and thermal switches and they do go bad. These can be jumped out to trouble shoot the problem but I would not run it with out these safety devices in it.

I do not know if this heater is on any product recall but we have used patton heaters for years and pretty much have had good luck with them. However there is a fire hazard present if you set or store combustibles to close to the front.Tip over switches don't always work and I would never recommend using a heater of this type in a unsupervised area.I hope this is of some help to you. Thank you and happy holidays.

I go thru several of these a year, the fan motors for the most part go out on them or the safety for overheating. I find that at $19.00 it is easier to replace than repair. If you add up parts costs freight to get them to you and your time you go well over the cost of repair. If you wish to dabble there are two switches in mine, one is a tip switch usually on the bottom and a heat sensor to protect against over heating this will usually be at the top looks like a button with two wires one in one out. Both can be jumped out to see if they are bad can run this way as well but not recommended unless it is in close proximity to you, never let it run unattended.By the way this is not a fix but an easy way to trouble shoot only.

If it was banged in any way some thing got stuck to it need to inspecked it

http://www.kztv10.com/news/wal-mart-heater-recall/
This link should help.

if it comes on and works for a while and then trips the breaker its pulling to many amps. try to put it somewhere where nothing else is plugged in and see what happens. Sometimes you can have to many things on one circuit.

There are a few things that I can think of, your air intake is on the top make sure they are clear. The fan is a little thing, is it running and can you feel the air being pushed out? I count eleven screws on the back of my heater so remove all eleven screws clean air passages and look to see if the over heating sensor is in its mounting or is it hanging free.You can take it apart and clean it, just do not touch the heating elements and make sure you have it unplugged!!

Oh yes depending on the draw amps they can run you an extra 50 bucks a month using it 4 hrs a night .

There should be a fuse located on the back towards the bottom. It should have a screw in cap holding fuse in plase.Remove fuse and see if you can tell if its blown. If your not sure you can try new fuse of right size and amp rating.Amp rating should be stamped on end or around base of fuse. If this helps thats great. If not and you think heating element is burned you probably better off to just get new one as the price of new element and possible other parts will cost you as much or more than buying new. Hope this helps. Thanks

More than likely, the alarm is a warning that the heater is not sitting perfectly level, check to make sure that it is sitting level. Or it could be a carbon monoxide warning. Open a window, just slightly, and see if that fixes the problem. Also, the appliance could be overheating, which could be a problem.

There are a couple of things I would check. Some units like this have a seperate fuse for heating and fan.They should be located on back or lower portion on sides.Most of these have a black screw on cap. Unscrew cap to access fuse. Always remember to be safe and have heater unplugged before doing any checks or repairs. Most of the older units of this type use old style automotive fuses which are round with a glass center section.You can look at them and see if the wire or metal strip inside is seperated. If it is then fuse is bad and needs replaced with new fuse of same amp rating and size. The other thing is that the heating element is burned out. You can check this by removing front cover or grille and visually inspecting heating coils.Don't mean to sound negative but if it's much more than a fuse you're probably better off to just get a new one. Hope thishelps . Thanks

WW Grainger

personally? i would toss it, that sputtering could be the control switch arching inside

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