Ovens - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Hi Amanda, you don't say where you are? Maybe worth contacting these people with the Oven model number.

If you bypass the clock, how will you maintain a steady temperature, include safety features, or program functions? What you seem to want is an outdoor grill. DO NOT bypass the logic board on your oven, sir. Help Me Find My Model Number RepairClinic com

I am not familiar with your model of cooker but I assume it is a gas cooker. Gas cookers have safety devices in the oven and grill the hob rings do not need. I speculate even the domestic oven hasn't escaped the interference from the electronics industry and I expect the aforementioned safety devices depend on (low voltage) electronics and electronics depend on electricity - that the lights aren't working would suggest there is no (low voltage) electricity. Even in the case of an electric oven the thermostat could be electronic and need (low voltage) electricity to work. I suspect the internal power supply has failed.

Check to make sure there is a power supply and the neutral is not broken at the terminal box

If it has a glass top that closes when burners nit in use then there us a little button that disconnects the gas as a safety feature, this will be located at the rear of the job. Check it isn't stuck.

maybe the door open switch

going google and typing in officiana star ovens brings up a site called axial.co.nz that calims to have parts for that oven give them a call on line or ring the company if they can't help then type in what I did in google and there are other pages that you can call.

A variation of 5- 10% is actually normal since the mechanisms that signal the oven to turn on & off need to be great enough to stimulate the heating activation mechanisms. I've also heard that variation of 25-50 degrees is normal. I know this sound absurd. But there is hope. If the temp change is consistent you can anticipate the difference. For instance, I have an oven that always needs 20 minutes more for turkey and another takes 4 minutes less for muffins. The answer is add or subtract based on experience with the appliance. Unless the appliance is outside of the manufacturer's specifications there may not be anything wrong at all. Good Lock.

contact someone that repairs them and ask them,look on ebay for one of the boards and you will find an ad for repair,they sell their services on ebay,this is an example,but,you might find your board or repair here, 0 results found for stove main board repair

you need to find the supply for the floresent display?? i assume it will be like -33 to -85 v @ lke 300Hz or something usually its the psu for the displays it develops bad electrolytic capacitors inside these round cans is some fluid electrolyte and a coils of two plate of thin metal usualy aluminium and an isolator membrane over time the fluid drives out and the now acid or alkalie becomes more corrosive and eats it inside you need to see where the psu is and perhaps any of the capacitors as you often find the displays are units and also have a few you need to replace them all really esp on an oven that gets quite hot and will cause these small batteries to fails they store a charge for a certain time and are used as current resoviours so will cause this exact issue when the indead will go dry takes 2-10 years depending on the type some sealed types will last 30-40 years but in consumer stuff they last 5-10 max... so... this is the issue with your displays

If the clock is showing time you may have accidently knocked the auto button this will shut off the power to both ovens until the timer times out you must press the manual button it usually has a little hand printed on it. If you do not have any lights on the clock or oven it may be due to 1. a blown fuse or tripped power supply 2.Thermal cut out tripped or failure 3.A broken live or neutral wire isolate the power before doing any continuity tests. 4. A faulty timer.

Check that you have not accidently put the timer to auto mode this would cut the power to your ovens.

check the timer has not accidently been set to auto this would cut the power to your ovens you need to set it back to manual.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.