Orange Amps Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

Maybe your room is wired without an earth connection. Try it in other rooms or a friends house. If it works OK elsewhere, you need an electrician to check out your house, it may be dangerous. If it still does not work, look at your settings, and use low gain for testing.

Wiggle the headphone plug while plugged in to see if there is a difference. The socket may be dirty or sticky.

probably bad transistors in switching power supply

change your speaker amp

I found both FDA2828N50F MOSFET transistors in the power supply were shorted. I replaced them and the amp worked fine. I couldn't find a reason for them to fail.

Most likely you blew a bus fuse. Can't say you should open it up and replace it though because there are lethal voltages inside of your amp that could hurt or kill you. You can find replacement bus fuses at radio shack. just make sure you get the same rated fuse. 500mA 125v or something like that in small writing on the metal part of the tiny glass cylinder.

If you cannot hear a his from the speaker when you turn up the volume all the way, there is a good chance you blew the speaker. It can be replaced. If it is not the speaker then it need to go in for service. If you are neer the philadelphia area you can bring it to Pro Line Music 215-736-8055

Instead of waiting a day, cool the thing down as quickly as you can and try it to see if it is a therma; problem.

You MAY be driving it too hard and the amp chip is going into thermal shutdown... This is a small amp and not intended for major loud use.

TRY playing softer and see if it lasts longer before failing. If you are overheating the internal chip because you want it loud, best to get a bigger amp...

Next test is to turn it on but DON'T play for a time period of more than the usual few songs and then see if it is already dead or you have to play awhile before it fails.

You MAY be exceeding the capability of the unit causing the thermal protect of the PA chip to shutdown. A 15 Watt amp is NOT going to make a lot of noise unless you have super-efficient speakers that are say 15 inch ones in decent cabinets. You still will be limited in sound level. Just because the gain control goes to a paticular number doesn't mean the amp can take it !!! Mpost of these use 7 terminal amp chips about the size of a TO220 transistor. Heat sinks are OFTEN very inadequate.

If you have a preamp output jack or a headphones jack on the back- those will work. They should interupt the speaker if you are wanting it for practice purposes.if you do not have those, and want to add one, tap at the control grid of the Phase inverter ECC83/12AX7A which should be common grid to the final preamp tube, which should also be an ECC83/12AX7A and locate the coupling capacitor so you can tap ahead of it with a .1 microfarad 600 WVDC capacitor or one that matches the factory capacitor in series to the new jack, with shielded audio wire/coax to the new jack location, at the tip and the coaxial jacket should go to chassis ground at both ends. The grid is either pin2 or pin7 depending which way they chose to wire it. I do not have an Orange Amp schematic in front of me.If you want to risk noise at that location, make it interuptable so when the headphones are removed, the circuit completes to the N/C contact of the headphone jack (which opens/opened when headphone plug is inserted.) back to the grid terminal. with that terminal connected by shielded wire back to the grid.Instead of adding a capacitor, you can use the factory capacitor, just mount a terminal strip next to the phase inverter and move the capacitor to that new terminal tab and the wire to lead to the tip together on that ear, and the return wire from the headphone jack goes to the now vacated tube pin terminal. .Look to see if on of the filament/heater pins is grounded to chassis- if so, just ground the sleeve contact of the jack. If it is not, determine which pin is closest to chassis ground potential and run the sleeve contact over to that pin. could be either 4, 5, or 9 Make sure to use an insulating headphone jack.EL34 outputs should never be connected to a headphone.

actually there are a few ways of doing this that require no disassembly ( and i better get a good rateing for revealing these secrets haha ) check it out. take a Q-Tip and break off one of the fluffy heads. Apply some super glue to the end you broke off and shove that into the 1/4"jack and essentially glue it to the qtr inch tip. let this sit for a second and pull. should come right out IF NOT you can also try to find a screw ( usually a wood screw ) and you can thread that into the hole of the tip of the connector. if this doesnt get it out post back so i'll know and i'll walk you through how to remove the chassis and pcb's safetly. good luck!

What are ;you talking about? explain the problem

I just heard back from orange. Here is the body of the response.

Hi Vito,

Thanks for your inquiry, but I'm not sure what amp is to which you are referring. To my knowledge Orange has never produced a "Sundown Rover 15 Watt." If it is a vintage amp, we wouldn't have a schematic for it regardless unfortunately.

Perhaps you could give me a little more info on it or snap a picture and send it in an email?

Cheers,

Alex

Vito Vacirca Jr.

Pro Line Music

490 Lincoln Highway

Fairless Hills Pa. 19030

215-736-8055

[email protected]

[email protected]

www.prolinemusic.com

I am contacting orange to see if there is some way to help you.

Would be nice to know what the problem is.