Oldsmobile Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

I just moved you to EIGTHY EIGHTH. no symptoms told at all just (now working) transmissions have like 100 failure modes or more, I;m not posted that, here. and cause WALL OF TEXT HORRORS. the shifter lever is stuck in some why PRNDL or all gears above are dead car will not move. or reverse is dead. or D or L is dead 1 or both, or none. or drive will not upshift. or transmission has false neutrals or flare.(up) 1: check ATF levels by the book> and gross leaks? 2:check all fuses in car cab/bay if ok fuses 3:scan the PCm with OBD2 scan tool , see P07xx codes , bingo. this box I thinks is 4T60E (the new name GM now uses) first tell what reverse does. and the rest . my answers are USA only, or canada if you told. it. a good run24 years. the time to buy a scan tool is before car will not move. and now the tool is free of cost, just a fraction of labor tow charge saved pays for the tool, (buy ,rent or barrow one) the rules of ROI

Doby , you have like 100 posts here for one car. ( a record)is this car really that sick? but never told 1 problem at all. this post.just a HUNT, game.?you posted this many times and never bought GM Olds full service manual for it, that tells this answer clear as day./The PRNDL switch is on or inside the transmission and no engine told nor transmission told exactly how can there be any answer?"Do you keep it in park or neutral"THM440/4T60/ME9 TRANS (ME9 is RPO code)<< guess 1THM440 is original name or pure hydramatic box.GM box it is.there is shift solenoid in the shifter console,Park lock out, has long history of changes.on some the PRNDL switch on side if tranny box goes to ECUand if not in park or N, no spark happens.on others there are cable to key switch to shifter linkagethat blocks key actions using this cable. and more. manuals for this 34 year old car are hard to find, now.the real service manual will cover al Vin cars that yearit will cover all park lock out schemes use then, of at least 3.pays you 20 bucks and see what is here.https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp1988 only books then so online help is sparse and are hand scanned pages, only, but , at least try.

Disable the SRS system, remove the airbag module, remove the wheel nut, and use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel.

On that model of car check your Relay it come verry hot and when they click and stick together welded..

band damper motors (actuators, servo's regardless type) you already now the heater core is 180f + hot. even touching its 2 lines at the fire wall proved that and OBD2 scans show ECT reads 180F so engine side is good so then you fail to know the days has what is called heater./distribution air system. that huge box of damper there that love to fail even the service manual covers this. mine even shows removing the damper motor (vac or electr) and turn the damper hinge rod by hand to prove the damper door is not stuck if not stuck heat flows, hard. to one of many outputs called MODE dampers. we then test the mode dampers. see why it fails. all this is under the dash keep the hood closed or go broke throwing part not bad. the SM service manual on line shows chapter HVAC and covers every test to do , in all Chrysler products. oops I see old vacuum servo motors here , actuators modern name bad controls or bad servo's or even fell off vacuum lines I see 2 motor servo's too, temperature damper DC motor and mode, motor drive. called electric inlet actuator.( is Recirc ) and and AUX motor damper drive. found the hybrid schematic for this car, the whole thing vac and electric. https://imgur.com/a/cHq4CCY ONE CAN WATCH EACH DAMPER MOVE OR RUN THEM BY HANDS AND EASILY PROVE WHICH OF THE 5 FAIL. SENSE HOT AIR IS ON THE LEFT THERE WE KNOW KNOW VACUUM SIDE IS BAD, HE DAMPERS, STUCK THE SERVO BAD, OR THE CONTROL PORTS TO IT ARE BAD. EVEN A VACUUM LINE FELL OFF OR ROTTED OFF. 23 YEARS OLD

well the service manual shows this box. TCC clutch lock up or this Torque Converter Clutch Pulse Width Modulation (TCC?PWM) Solenoid Valve Assembly????????? Automatic Transaxle - 4T65-E The "T" means transverse boc. E means shifted 100% by electronics TCM brain, most are inside PCM. no engine told but this is the most common box, GM made and an put it in vast cars sold world wide , for them and other makes and lots of tops manuals covering it the answer is the TCC sol is inside the box. above pan' the TCC is mounted to the valve body. exactly here, as seen in the service manual and GM books on this box. there is Brake TCC switch that kills TCC function, braking. the clutch unlocks TC) there is TCC-PWM sol on the valve body there is TCC pressure switch same place to tell the PCM TCC did lock or did not lock up via pressure.

relay will only fir one way look at relay base and tunrrn relay to match copy and paste https://fuses-diagram.com/oldsmobile/oldsmobile-aurora-2001-2003-fuses-and-relays ..

https://www.justanswer.com/oldsmobile/734kv-oldsmobile-silhouette-remove-ignition-need.html ---------- https://www.directfactoryparts.com/v-2003-oldsmobile-silhouette--gls--3-4l-v6-gas/electrical--ignition-lock

all 4 blinkers, front and read. dead. fuses good is first check them. hazards dead , again all 4 corners of the car. older post.

which motor 3.1 or 3.4 give me email address send diagram

Hello, thank you for your question. We have researched your model and found a helpful video: https://youtu.be/UvYH1f9J_LQ
If you have further questions feel free to ask.

this is not clear at all (is 3.4L engine my bet) the starter is silent or not? if the starter motor spins the enigine crank shaft , fast that that is cranks ok not start engine. no crank means. the crank shaft never spins and that as a few causes, blow fuse test them all? crank in park and in Neutral too? N can work and P fail on any car. no power to PCM fuse mean main power is dead main 12vdc power buss is dead. and that is much larger fuse even 100amps. if you scan the PCM well that action will be dead. lacking PC power so here is that power feed, battery must be 12.6vdc rested, not 10v here we go ,2 paths dead, starter motor and PCM dead power. Fuse link C blow out. GM gray coded,same goes fore Fuse a1/2 blown. fuse link A, blown GM rust coded make alternator 100%^ dead and now the battery dead too ,lacking working ALT. next is fuse link Z (GM gray) runs vast things. I wonder what fuse is this PCM fuse as none are marked that. there are 100 schematic to see, I am working throught them all to find PCM are head lamps dead, are brake lamps dead? head lamps work key off, so is always fix it first if dead. fuse (Fa1/2 ) PCM/ABS fuse 10amps the a1 side is main power to this fuse. and this also kills dead the transmission range switch PRNDL and starter too dies. So fuse A1 side is your critical failure point on this car. so maxi fuse 40amps blew out from a short. A1 FUSE GOES HOT KEY ON ONLY. (NO IMMO FAILURES IF HAS IT. IF NOT a ign MAIN 1 FUSE 40AMPS IS BLOW OR POWER TO MAIN ONE IS GONE. mIAN1 IS WIRED HARD TO THE BATTERY MAIN ALL MAXI FUSES ARE, SO IS BLOWN THAT FUSE OR THE KEY SWITCH IS BAD.(IN RUN)

Do you know how to test electrical circuits with a volt meter ? If you hear clicking ,where do you hear it ? Down near the starter ,,in the under hood fuse box ? How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit Starter Voltage Drop

The canister is located in the space between rear end and fuel tank, just above it is the fuel filter as well,easy fix

after replacing the ignition tumbler. You replaced the key an lock cylinder, correct ? You need to program new key to the vehicle,if you got the right kind of key . You can't just buy any aftermarket key. Your best bet,take it to a qualified repair shop.

Possibly a bad microswitch in the door latch. You can try spraying the latch down with contact cleaner then WD40 and open and close the doors a few times, but usually it is time for a latch replacement.

This problem is typically caused by a discharged battery or a poor battery connection. These conditions can allow some components with a low electrical load to work properly, however when it comes time to start the engine (which requires a high electrical load), it will not start. The first thing you'll want to do is check the battery terminals. Look for signs of corrosion (green powdery buildup) at the battery posts and clean as necessary. Also, attempt to twist the terminals on the battery posts by lightly pushing and pulling on the battery cables; they should not move if they are properly tightened. If no issues are found, attempt to jump-start the vehicle. If jump-starting the vehicle works, you could have a faulty battery or a parasitic drain, but a faulty battery is by far the more common of the two failures. You can read more about how to deal with a dead or discharged battery here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-handle-dead-battery-problems

The fuel line my have someing in them or the fuel futer my be bad

Try having the ignition module checked. The ignition module is located underneath of the coil packs. Usually Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts can test them. Another possibility is low fuel pressure. There is a schrader valve on the fuel inlet line that you can hook up a fuel pressure tester to. The pressure should be around 38 PSI.

My 3.4 liter 91 Cutlass Supreme has similar problem when warm the engine misses (car jerks). But its fine at idle and without any accelerator pressure. The SERVICE ENGINE light also comes on intermittantly. I am going to test the ignition coils.