A.O. Smith Plumbing - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

That sounds bad. Check the oil level first. If that's good, then somebody needs to work on the inside of your engine - maybe you only have a bad oil pump, maybe you have more damage than that. DO NOT drive it this way - not for ANY distance! Don't even START it.

i need technical detail as well as dimensional detail of CET54AEH Thermal OVERLOad of KLIXION. if any 2d or 3d dimesion drawing is available then it is much better for me for Analysis.

I am not sure, but DC motors will run backwards if the polarity of the incoming voltage is switched. I see this is an AC motor but they always run forward no matter the polarity, unless the polarity is reversed to the right wires inside the motor. The second link has a discussion on exactly how to do that. Thus it may have your answer, that those wires got switched somehow on your motor. Which means you need to buy a new motor. http://www.aqua-man.com/row_num.asp?Ic=1133 http://cr4.globalspec.com/thread/26099

If power is applied and motor hums but does not start spinning, the start capacitor is probably burnt out. Replace it with a 163-193 uf at 125vac. That should solve the issue.

The wiring diagram should be on the junction box cover. You can go on line and download the manual with this information. There are a lot of A.O. Smith motors out there.

I would suggest taking a closer look at the motor name plate. I am not familiar with a 120/240 three phase service. When I checked the web it shows: Voltage 115/230 (that is single phase), Max Amps 115 Volts = 19.2 Max Amps 230 Volts = 9.6 , Single Speed, Square Flange, RPM = 3450, Threaded Shaft, Frame = 48Y Used on the following models: Sta-Rite Max-E-Glas, Max-E-Glas II, Dura-Glas, Dura-Glas II, Dyna-Glas, Dyna-Max Pentair Whisperflow, Pinnacle and Anthony AR2 Series. You should also show what voltage you are connected to.

You are correct the capacitor is only used during starting the motor. I assume the motor is getting hot and shutting off. Check the discharge side, filters etc for obstructions, it appears something is causing the pressure to go a bit high.

Did you try the Century A.O. Smith B230SE motor without the center screw? I'm having the same problem and I'm asking the reseller for advice. It would be great to know if I need the center screw is required? The impeller screws on the shaft, but is the center screw required?

Sounds like you may have a failed start switch in the motor. It appears the start winding did not drop out and the pump would not come up to full speed.

I am a bit late but why not just replace the pump.

How long has it been since you have the new motor installed? Did it work after the job was completed? Very possible that the starter circuit has failed, usually when it comes on and runs but overheats and stops, the starter and run circuits are both engaged and that causes it to overheat. If you can read the wiring diagram on the motor and make sure it it correctly wired, you may save it if it is a simple loose wire. Otherwise it sounds like you will have to have whoever changed it come back and do a warranty repair.

that's easy ground goes on the top green screw at about 1 o'clock the others can be ether way see picture .. go to your local pool pump motor repair guy and ask him how 2 take better care of your pump.. he can save you thousands of dollhair$ over the years .. jay pump guy longwood Florida

Hi pbrittain...
Check to make sure you have electrical power coming to the pump motor.
Make sure the pump motor connections are all tight and no corrosion on the wires to inhibit electrical flow.
If you are getting power to the switch, and to the motor...then you have a faulty motor.
Please take time to rate me

You should be able to see on the tag "RLA" which is running load amps. It should not exceed this amperage. Could the motor be going the wrong direction? If its going the wrong way, that exactly how it would react.

Remove the power plug, remove the back cover, loosen the clamp that holds the capacitor and move it out of the way. With a 1/2 inch open end wrench, (I think it is 1/2 inch) hold the armature via the flats on the rear of the armature. With your other hand, remove the impeller. While you are at it, you should replace the seal inside as well. If you can't get the impeller off by hand (I presume you are removing it because it is damaged) use channel lock pliers to remove it. It may turn off in a direction other than what you are expecting. Try both directions.

When stopping and starting your pump, make sure it is actually stopped before turning it back on. Frequently, air pressure in the filter will run the pump in reverse when you turn the power off to the pump. Starting the pump before the pump has come to a stop will spin the center out of the impeller. 10 seconds should be plenty of time.

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

On your motor name plate there is a diagram with motor terminal numbers that shows you the feeder wires connections for 115 & 230VAC. You don't need to change any internal motor wiring connections because those are only CW or CCW motor rotation. As you told it tripped your circuit breaker, b4 u will attemp to make any connection you need to test your motor's winding insulation insulation first by using megger tester or ordinary analog tester clipping one lead to the casing and one lead to the motor terminals one by one.

Hi,
Most of those pumps are a single speed motor. Because of that it is difficult to slow it down.
The best thing you can do is to install a valve in the outlet hose and slow the water down that way....it will not hurt the pump and if you had a meter on the wiring to the pump you would see that it will actually use LESS electricity with the valve part way shut.
That way you can easily adjust how much water is going through the pump...

heatman101

pool pump repair guy in longwood florida , here to save the day.. Ok what you have is a bad shaft seal (90% of the time) OR tank crack or a cracked seal plate or a bad gasket or o-ring.. look at the link and it wil help you ID your pump and take it apart. prim that pump after a repair !!! www.poolmotorrepair.com/
the cost of a shaft seal

The impeller is most likely set on a tapered shaft it is not easy to get off . You may need to get a puller to get it off. You can try adding some heat to the area with a hair dryer, don't use a torch. Be gentle.

Remove the 4 fasteners that hold the pump head onto the motor and try to turn the motor shaft by hand. If it turns freely, apply power and see what happens. If it turns Ok, then your problem is the pump head not the motor. If the motor does not turn by hand then it needs to be replaced. If it turns by hand but not when power is applied, you may get away with replacing the bearing in it.