Noritz Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

I believe you killed it,I've installed two units direct vented through side wall in Minnesota and the cold wind blew in flu and froze up units,water stopped running in houses so we were able to save

This sounds like "water hammer"You can fix this by adding an arrester to the water line. here is a link to what they look like and how they work http://www.plumbingsupply.com/waterhammerarresters.htmlYou may want to check you water pressure and see if its over 80 psi.If so then your regulator needs to be adjusted or replaced. If you home does not have a regulator and the city has upped the pressure then you will need to install one. water hammer will break pipes over time and can damage that nice water heater you have.

you probably had debris get into the filter or flow sensor when the water was turned back on. I'd recommend checking the filter first and if that doesn't work, call Noritz Tech support to help you with the flow sensor.

the filter is a black plug located on the cold water line (labeled cold on the bottom of the unit). It points torwards the left.

change your thermocouple; it is the brass colored pencil like metal rod that sits over the burner and has a tube attached to the end of it the tube goes to the main gas valve; unscrew the thermocouple at the gas valve and remove it the main gas valve opens when the thermocouple gets hot by being in the pilot flame

Are you sure you have an NR71? or is it an NRC model? only NRC models should be getting that code. Anyways, your house water treatment system has nothing to do with the neutralizer. The Neutralizer that it is telling you to replace is not there to treat the water going to your house. It is neutralizing the acidic condensate produced by the exhaust in your "condensing" unit. Without a new Neutralizer the condensate that drains out the bottom of the unit will be strong enough to kill plants and eat away very slowly at some items or metals underneath the skinny condensate drain. It's not a big deal unless you have the unit sitting above something you really care about and there's no condensate drain pipe attached. Either way, if you buy a new Neutralizer it comes with instructions on how to reset the timer so that you don't have to have the EC 92 bug you anymore.

EC 71 usually means you are using a battery backup that doesn't produce a pure sine wave. OR you recently had a power outage and it shorted the circuit board. if you have a battery backup try unplugging that and see if it works okay. If not, just call Noritz for a replacement c/b.

Turn off your incoming cold water to the tankless. (you should probably do the same with your hot water out line just in case). find the black cap that screws sideways into the cold water connection on the bottom of the unit. unscrew the black cap. the filter is supposed to be attached but it almost always comes off. grab a screw driver and stick it in the hole that the black cap was covering. angle it and drag the filter out. you may end up putting a hole in the filter this way but it doesn't matter if you are replacing the filter anyways. once you pull it out make sure you have a little rubber washer on the new filter or else transfer from the old one. the new filter should actually attach itself nicely onto the black cap so once you've removed the old one all you have to do is screw the black cap/filter combo piece back onto the cold water connection and you're done. I suppose I should mention you will want to have a bucket under the pipes and everything because your unit will empty all the water that was in the unit out of that hole.

try leaving the remote unplugged and unplug the unit for 10 seconds and plug only the unit back in. If you get hot water without the remote connected but nothing after doing the same thing with the remote connected then your remote may have shorted out. Otherwise your circuit board may have had a short. In which case, call Noritz for a replacement.

F76 is usually a communication error between the remote and the heater. you may have just unplugged something inside the unit while it had power (don't do that). Just unplug the unit from the wall (or flip the breaker) and wait 10 sec and plug it back in again and the problem should fix itself. Otherwise there my be a loose wire going to your remote. In which case, try unplugging the remote and unit for 10 sec and plug the unit (only) back in with the remote disconnected. run your hot water and see if it works. if so it could be a problem with the remote or its wiring.

You are describing normal operation. Does it NOT work any other time? If so, go to your remote and hold in the up and down arrows at the same time and hit up until you find number 14. this shows the flow rate. your flow rate has to be above 005 in order for the unit to start. try running a bathtub. if this starts it the problem is your faucets not allowing enough water through them. if this doesn't start it then you probably DO have a cross connection and you just haven't found it yet. Especially if the unit is running but the water never gets hot. Either way, call Noritz for them to walk you through it and you'll get it working.