Noritz Plumbing - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

I would google make and model number find the company web site and download a manual . or phone there teck help line to make sure .

Check the remote control for the actual error code, but here are some of the more common codes associated with 4 flashes:

20 - high limit switch; typically caused by scale in heat exchanger: I recommend performing a descale

66 - water flow control valve abnormality; typcially caused by scale in the valve, again I recommend a descale

61 - fan motor abnormality; usually the fan won't run properly and requires replacement; however, it can also be caused by a low or inconsistent voltage supply

they leak like mad better of replaceing

In most cases, it is better to purchase a new one than have repaired UNLESS you can do all the work yourself.

Do other faucets in the house work ok? if so the kitchen faucet may not be creating enough water flow to trigger the noritz. The Noritz have a flow meter inside of them (depending on the year they where made, older units require 3/4 GPM, newer models require 1/2 GPM). If the kitchen faucet is not turning on the hot water, you can check the angle stop and make sure it is open all the way. Also check the aerator on the faucet to make sure it is not plugged and restricting the flow.

It is not very hard, you can contact Noritz directly or a local distibutor to get a LP gas valve and change it out with the natural gas valve. It takes about 10-20 minutes. just make sure you check for leaks before starting it back up.

How much cold water do you get (10-20 seconds or minute +)? Do you have a recirc pump in the house, tied into the hot water line?

A 14 code means the thermal fuse (white wire which wraps around the heat exchanger) has snapped. This occurs if the heat exchanger reaches a dangerously high temperature. To correct this error code you need to replace the thermal fuse and keep the heat exchanger from over heating. Typical reasons the heat exchanger over heats are:

1) scaling in the heat exchanger
2) combustion chamber dirty and burning hot

the 90 code indicates poor combustion. It can typically be resolved by cleaning the unit with compressed air, performing a descale, or corrected an improperly sized gas line.

F12 occurs on a multi-system or quick connect. It means one of the units on the system suffered a flame loss. More specifically, it means the flame rod stopped detecting flame on the burner. The most typical causes are as follows:

1) insufficient BTUS (low gas pressure)
2) leaking heat exchanger
3) clog in the manifold, burner, or heat exchanger
4) stuck flue damper or improperly sized venting
5) dirty flame rod
6) damaged circuit board or gas valve

Parts can be ordered directly from Noritz. Simply contact them and they will guide you through the process.

You have an error code. If you cut electricity to the unit and wait about 20 seconds before powering it back up, the unit will come back on again. There are serveral error codes associated with 3 blinks, I'd recommend instaling the remote controll to determine exactly which one it is (instructions are in the installation manual).

The most common error code associated with 3 blinks is a 16 code, which is typically related to scale formation in the heat exchanger. This error code can be fixed by performing a descale.

The filter is frequently stuck in the filter hole on that model. Look for a black plastic washer with a circular hole in the center; that's the bottom of the filter. You can remove it with a screw driver. Put the screw driver in the circular hole, turn it at an angle, and use it as a lever to wrench the filter out.

the 90 code indicates the unit is overheating and needs to be serviced. I'd recommend contacting a servicer to clean the unit with compressed air and perform a descale.

once its in, pressurize the water before connecting power. If you didnt' get the c-clamps on correctly, they will spray water. its better to have the power disconnected if you get water inside the unit.

Sounds like gas pressure is too high..not set properly or exchanger is clogged. Best to get technician out there for this one. Could be dangerous

You are going to have to check the flow of cold water coming in from the city. If you have the 25-30 psi going into the hot water tank, the pressure relief valve should also have that level of pressure. It sounds like you do not have the pressure coming in as you should. Perhaps the valve at the street is the problem. Joe

I had the same fault code. Noritz told me it was a Bypass Control valve that was blocked from shutting all the way. It is located inside the unit on the bottom right there is a small motor with two wires attached to the bottom of the valve... these wires could possibly be not contacting... I resolved the problem by tapping somewhat strong on the valve with a hammer with a type of punch... i was lucky the tapping unstuck the valve.... i would reccomend if you can't resolve tis simply get a tech who knows how to work on this... there are two gears inside that are keyed by marks on them... be sure that they go back right if you dissasembe this valve. Good Luck...

Black gas pipe is definitely the best,

PG&E will likely have a list of qualified contractors they will be happy to share with you.