Nor-Lake Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

you are leaving the door open to long

did you clean out the drain pan underneith the unit?

The door frame heater is probably damaged and grounded. Unfortunately, it is still energized causing less than the entire heater being utilized which will cause an extremely hot condition. I would look at replacing it. It is a pain to do but with some patience, it can be done.

Good luck and hope this helps.

Your temperature is probably set to high turn it down to about 4 for a couple hours and then back up like 7 dont turn both controls up all the way or it will freeze up on you. You could even unplug it for an hour and let it thaw out then turn it back on the freezer to 7 and the fridge like halfway or a little more than half.... see if this works for you...........Have a good week end! : )

The factory presets your temperatures to the MID / MID setting of 0ºF for the freezer.

the fridge is short ov gas it should cost about 60 pounds to repair

You should check for air leaks around the door gasket or any other openings in the compartment such as where pipes or wiring is going through the wall. It sounds like a moisture problem from moisture being drawn into the compartment pass door gaskets or access holes.

I assume there is no manual control for setting temp. so the thermal sensor or control circuit has failed and it is just staying at its maximum.  You will probably get more help from the manufacturer but their website is somewhat disjointed; looking for contact info for your product ends at one point and then shifts to their scientific product line.
The only general contact info I found is here:
Nor-Lake 
You will in any case need to have the correct model number at hand since the subject line doesn't sound like your freezer. 

the refrigerator temperature is determined on the freezer setting if you look at the thermostat for the freezerusually has #1 to 8 or close to it. nextto that is another kbob or lever that sets the air flow from the freezer to the refrigerator . i usually prefer to set both knobs in the middle for example on 1 to 8 set on 5 the other knob will have letters a-b-up to e set that one on 3 which will close the damper to about 50% if you need the freezer colder set the air flow knob to say B that should solve your problem.

The compressor overheated. Unplug the Ref for 20-30 min. to let the compressor cool. Remover the back cover so you can see the compressor, this will help it cool off. A window fan set to blow on the compressor will help.

When the compressor is cool enough to touch plug it back in. It may start and run just fine or if it just clicks and does not run, replace the compressor relay.

easy i had this problem all you have to do is go buy a pandora battery off the internet just google (pandora battery)and your psp is bricked and the pandora battery can give you custom firmware CFW

sounds like your defrost timer is not working properly . Most fridge/freezers the fridge gets cooled from the cool air from the freezer . But when the defrost timer is not working properly the section between the fridge and freezer freezes up and hence doesnt allow the flow of cool air into the fridge. The defrost timer can be easily replaced. 

If you can provide it, then it can be determined and given to you.

First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.
So, how can the Ref side be cold and the freezer side not freezing?

1. Coolant leak. There is enough coolant to keep the Ref side cool but not enough to freeze on the freezer side.

2. Defrost system failure. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice and it's just a matter of time when the Ref side won't cool either. The back wall in the freezer will be covered with ice/frost

Go here an find your model # for manual

http://www.retrevo.com/samples/Norlake-Freezer-manuals.html

Good Luck and Pleaase rate Fixya!

Please confirm you have given the complete model number.

If the icemaker has a bail wire to control how much ice is in the bin, there is a fill switch inside the front cover of the ice maker which allows you to increase or decrease the amount of fill.

You may also have a cracked or corroded ice mold. Check by filling the icemaker with water manually, and watching to see if it drips once the initial overfill stops dripping. This would also be indicated by the ice cubes being smaller than usual.

There is a PTC relay on the compressor you need to replace it. Small black square looking device take the wire retainer clip off and pry off the relay. Get the wires going to relay noted and then get the model number and make of your unit. Go to a parts house for appliances and get a new one. About 25 bucks for that little dude but it is a needed for your compressor. Could get a 3 in 1 relay they are a lot cheaper and easy to install. let me know how it goes ken

if both sides are hot it sounds as if the compressor isnt running. pull the refig away from the wall and remove the cardboard cover the compressor is the black bowling ball loking thing that you see. fell to see if it is running should have vibration and making a humming sound. if its not running listen for 3-5 minutes to see if you are hearing an intermittent humming and clicking noise. this would indicate a bad start relay for the compressor. if the compressor is running then you mostlikely have a freon problem which will require a qualified technician to repair. good luck and thanks for using fixya Peyton..

You can normally figure an appliance in several ways by -

1) Calling the manufacturer and giving them the model and serial number
2) Look on various components like switches, compressors, etc., and looking for a date code stamped on them, usually in the format of MM-YY like 09-08 for September, 2008, or WW-YY like 23-98 for 23rd week of 1998.
3. All compressors are date coded for sure. If you provide the manufacturer of the compressor and all the data on the nameplate of the compressor, the date of the compressor manufacture can be found, which will give an approximate date of manufacture of the refrigerator.

Have you cleaned your condenser coils lately? It is very common for these coils to accumulate dirt, and hair until it will not reject the heat from the unit. You can also check to see if your compessor is even running at all.