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give me the model number and I will tell you where it is and give you a web page for where it is located and when you do get this info pleas rate for the help for free question. I will be waiting for the model number. the ice maker is fed threw the same line as the water. and is connected at the back.

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Sep 13, 2009


I've worked on freezers for over 20 years and have never heard of a compressor going bad because the door was left open. think about a second opinion.
Also, has the cooling coil inside the box developed and frost or ice build up? If so, it needs to be completely defrosted. If you defrost it manually, use a hose hooked up to hot water. Kill all power and hose all build up off. Remove the sheet metal housing ends and be sure there is no ice inside there too. I would go in this direction first.
IN order to kill a compressor under this condition, something really strange must have happened as anything is possible in a refrigeration system. Good luck and hope this helps.

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Sep 11, 2009


hi bob - you have a couple of things going on that you can fix in a jiffy. the only tools you will need are a blow dryer, a flash light and a couple of cleaning clothes.

Self-defrosting refrigerators dispose of the water generated during the defrost cycle, usually via a tube or channel that directs the water to a pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. From the pan, the water normally evaporates.
If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed, the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain pan.
Next use the blow dryer to completely defrost and dry your ice maker. once that is done let it do its thing and you will have fresh new cubes in about 24 hours. have a good day Bob and thanks for calling on fixya!

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Aug 31, 2009


Normally, freezers have electric heaters that are energized during the defrost cycle. Once out of the defrost cycle, the refrigeration system comes on but the fans do not. This allows the evap to cool off and to prevent circulating warm air from the heaters. This is controlled by a fan delay switch. It is a small, round device that can have 2, 3, or 4 wires going to it, depending on the manufacturer. It is usually clipped on to the end of the evap coil on one of the "U" bends, near the top, inside one of the ends of the evap. Usually where all the electrial components are located. It come in several variations, but it's main function is to prevent the fans from energizing too early. Usually does not bring fans on till evap hits 20 or so degrees. Check this out and get back to me.

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Aug 16, 2009


It seems to be working fine, the noise usually come when the compressor in the fridge is trying to maintain the temperature inside. It does it's own calculations to keep the temperature consistent. Moverover as you say it is working fine now, so I'd recommend you to leave it as it is. In case it makes same noise again for more than 5 minutes, then you need to get it checked,

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Aug 11, 2009


The evaporator drains into pan with a coil from the discharge line. The design is intented to sub-cool the liquid refrigertant as well as evaporate the condensation from the coil. Unfortunately the engineer started as career a shipping clerk and never received any further training.  There isn't enough heat or running time to evaporate the condensation from the coil.
The solution is fairly simple
A plastic tube  drains water out of the evaporator in the pan. You can extend the tube and add a defrost pan handled by your refrigeration wholesaler. Wire it so it is on whenever there is power to the unit.  This should get rid of the excess water. These pans are also used on some self contained coolers and freezers. They come in either 120 volts or 220 volts. kasgirls@tds.net

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Jul 27, 2009


The coil in the conditioned space is called the evaporator.
If the water droplets are forming on the ceiling around the evap, it is due, most likely, to the defrost cycle being too long.
Defrost cycle: compressor stops, evap fans stop, electric heaters in the evap come on to clear any ice/ frost on evap fins/ coil.
The ice/ frost melts and some of it turns into vapor. As it hits the cold ceiling surface, it condensates into water droplets. Defrost cycle could be too long. Usually 4 time aday and no longer than 30 minutes should be enough unless there is high humidity.
There could be another cause.
Normally, after a defrost cycle terminates, the evap fans do not come on, due to a delay control. This prevents circulating warm are due to the heaters. The compressor comes on and cools the evap down to, usually 20 degrees or so, and then the fans come on. What could be happening is, the fans are coming on too early and blowing the water driplet off the evap and onto the back wall of the unit.
A third item, is to be sure that the condensate drain is "P" trapped. The prevents warm, outside air from being drawn in and causing exess frost build up, thus excess water and vapor.

Good luck and hope this helps

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Jul 25, 2009


hi..you either have a bad overload/relay on the compressor
or the compressor itself is bad,try replacing the overload/relay
first and if that does not repair the problem then replace the
compressor.
check it out..
thank you..
kindly rate my response..

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Jul 20, 2009


Could be due to only two reasons:

1) Please check your thermostat and in case it is defective get it replaced to solve this problem.

2) The refrigerant is leaked and it needs rectification. Flushing out the dirt and then recharging of refrigerant. This will solve your problem immediately.

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Jul 12, 2009


Your door seal is not sealing properly . Check and use a hairdryer to soften the seal and the magnetic portion should seal itself against the cabinet .

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Jul 07, 2009


It may just be low on freon (coolant) or you may have a bad compressor, or some back switches to the compressor.

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Jul 05, 2009


easy i had this problem all you have to do is go buy a pandora battery off the internet just google (pandora battery)and your psp is bricked and the pandora battery can give you custom firmware CFW

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Jul 02, 2009


As long as the temp. stays around 5+ or 5- of 0 degrees everything should be okay.

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Jul 02, 2009


Hi there,

Please provide me the make and model number of that cooler.
Thanks

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Jun 28, 2009


All cooling takes place in the freezer. The refrig/fresh food side is a parasite, depending on cold air circulation from the freezer side. The fan in the freezer provides that circulation, and usually the freezer control setting determines how much air is moved into the refrig side.
If the fan is up to speed and the both controls are set in a middle position, the refrig side should be fine. if the problem continues, replace evaporator fan motor or clear the blockage preventing circulation (usually frost build-up from a defective defrost system part or blocked defrost drain).

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Jun 13, 2009


Compressor 12/3 with 20 amp dual pole breaker. 220 VAC

Freezer 12/3 with 20 amp single pole breaker 120 VAC

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on May 30, 2009


There are a few companys that make temp chart recorders that are battery controled and you could get one of these and just put it inside the refrigerator, problem solved. Check at United Refrigeration, and Johnstone Supply they both have manufacturers that will allow you to keep charts. The 2 things to keep in mind 1 How often are you going to change charts, 2 what temperature range are you looking for.

Oh yes and Im sure there is a company that makes a remote sensed temp recorder that can tie into a computer and print out charts as needed. This is a little more specialized but I know the technology is asvailable. Probably Johnson or Penn Controls would know about this.

If this helps you in any way please rate me as high as you can. If you need to contact me and I can do the searching for you post back.

Nor-Lake... | Answered on May 29, 2009


The defrost system has failed and is not de-icing the coil or, the door is not sealing tight or too much time open allowing excess humidity to enter the chamber, thereby overcoming the capabilities of the defrost system. The system has a defrost timer someplace, check to see if it is running. If not, you can probably advance it into a defrost cycle with a screwdriver. (turn the shaft slowly until a click is heard and the system stops) Allow 20 or 30 minutes for the coils to defrost, and restart with the screwdriver if it has not took off on it's own. If the timer is found not running, replace it.

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on May 25, 2009


Yes,It will work just as it should.


Please rate this a fixya

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on May 18, 2009

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