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Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with yourrefrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101
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Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Sep 29, 2010


yes the ice buildup is coz of a problem in the defrost cycle... and u wud be required to test all the three components.....
first we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.
* We have received two reports of cases in which only one pair of terminals shows continuity and when the timer is advanced, the same pair still shows continuity. For these isolated cases, this was reported to be the correct operation of the timer. At this time we have not been able verify this case. This may indicate a specific model or models that use a different wiring configuration than discussed in this article. Also, note that this article applies to mechanical defrost timer controls and not electronic or adaptive defrost controls.

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Aug 30, 2010


I would start there. If the thermostat has an off setting, turn it there and see if it goes off. If not, try turning it to it's warmest setting while the box is cold to see if it turns off. To test to see if the relay/ contactor is stuck/bad, kill power to the unit (Unplug or turn off breaker). Disconnect one wire to the thermostat. Restore power. If unit runs, bad relay/contactor. If unit does not run, I'd replace the thermostat. Make sure the sensing bulb of the thermostat is in the conditioned space of the box or in the return air (intake) side of the evap so it can sense the box temp.

Nor-Lake... | Answered on Aug 21, 2010


start with checking the freon level. If too low, the txv will open and try to feed the evap. this can cause some overfeeding and give you some frost in some cases. It could also be a txv not feeding correctly. usually and overfeeding condition. causes frost build up on line and compressor and pressure in evap too high to remove the heat needed to properly cool. If a cap tube system, usually a sign of over charged or a real dirty condenser. In both cases, an evap fan, not properly working will cause a freeze up of the evap causing a high box temp and frost build up on the line and compressor.

Nor-Lake... | Answered on Aug 21, 2010


Change the defrost timer.

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Aug 08, 2010


its for your frige to get warm just wait for couple of hour and it will coll down

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Aug 02, 2010


Bad fan delay switch.

Nor-Lake... | Answered on Jul 23, 2010


Normally freezers are kept at zero. Most health departments will not allow the temp to be higher than plus 10. If you want to store ice cream, you need to be at minus 10 degrees to minus 15 degrees.

let me know if I can be of any further help.

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Jul 19, 2010


Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator2_bing.gif not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Jun 27, 2010


in most cases its the defrost element as the other units last much longer unless the fan has become jammed this happens when people toss meat hard against the back wall if you know how to do polaity test using a multimeter do test on defrost element its not a thermistate as new age frezzers dont use them they use timers and plastic channels to curculate cool air

good luck need more addvice email me

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Jun 25, 2010


yes it is frost free refrigerator

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Jun 21, 2010


Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer2_bing.gif and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Jun 04, 2010


Hi John,

The symptoms do indicate a failed thermostat.

I am not sure where you could get a thermostat for this freezer but I would try contacting Norlake first. They may guide you to who has one or maybe they can sell you one. If it is a direct replacement it is something that you can do yourself.

http://www.norlake.com/

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on May 10, 2010


It is probably no more risky than drinking water from a clear running stream. The frost is formed from water vapour so as it is formes it is pure. I suppose it then depends on how old it is and what has come into contact with it. It should be ok though.

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Apr 28, 2010


you will need to replace the main control board located on the rear panel behind an access panel,this board controls all temps and digital readouts,when the readout goes dark this board is the culprit

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Apr 27, 2010


Look for thermostat. Usually located near the unit inside the conditioned space where the fans are.

Nor-Lake Freezer... | Answered on Apr 23, 2010


You should have a tag / sticker on or near the compressor. This will tell you the info for servicing
I hope this helps:).

Nor-Lake Kold... | Answered on Apr 20, 2010


Hi,
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Apr 18, 2010


you need to remove the rear access panel inside the freezer and find the defrost heater and check this and see if the element is open,it is under and the side s of the evaporator,and if this is good you need to see if the defrost timer or adaptive defrost board is bad

Nor-Lake Norlake... | Answered on Apr 16, 2010

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