Nor-Lake Freezers - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Not pumping.

The pressure control will be fed a live from the thermostat and feed a live to the compressor relay

sounds like a bad defrost terminator or timer wired wrong. won't make temp as the evap is not clear of ice/frost build up. check your wiring diagram for location and operation of terminator.

Have it replaced. They are important in the cooling process. Act fast because you could cause further damage. If you can, unplug it until a tech can look at it.

if the temp is 10f compressor is fine, just need a tune up, call a specialist.

The thermostat sensor is located in the top rear of the interior of the unit, if you locate the dial to change temps on the inside of the unit, the sensor is attached to it, you may have to pull your fridge apart to get to it, but it can be done.

Regards Russ

L1 goes to 1-2 on Clock, L2 or Neutral to N on Clock, Defrost heater to 3 on Clock, Defrost Limit/Fan Delay to X on clock

Must be kept at 0*F (-18*C) minimum

I have a generic wiring diagram that I use on all my installs that works very well. It is basically the same for most all commercial walk in freezers. Send me a email address and I'll scan and forward what I have.

Helloo roger.....Freezers have a thermostat to maintain the proper temperature. These are usually very simple devices. When the freezer reaches the set temperature, the thermostat interrupts the electricity flow to the compressor, which stops cooling. Set your freezer to a colder and colder setting until it doesn't cut out. If you are already at the coldest setting, your only option would be to change the freezer's internal thermostat to one that has a lower cut out capability. Most refrigeration technicians could find the thermostat for you to do this. Joe

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I would start there. If the thermostat has an off setting, turn it there and see if it goes off. If not, try turning it to it's warmest setting while the box is cold to see if it turns off. To test to see if the relay/ contactor is stuck/bad, kill power to the unit (Unplug or turn off breaker). Disconnect one wire to the thermostat. Restore power. If unit runs, bad relay/contactor. If unit does not run, I'd replace the thermostat. Make sure the sensing bulb of the thermostat is in the conditioned space of the box or in the return air (intake) side of the evap so it can sense the box temp.

start with checking the freon level. If too low, the txv will open and try to feed the evap. this can cause some overfeeding and give you some frost in some cases. It could also be a txv not feeding correctly. usually and overfeeding condition. causes frost build up on line and compressor and pressure in evap too high to remove the heat needed to properly cool. If a cap tube system, usually a sign of over charged or a real dirty condenser. In both cases, an evap fan, not properly working will cause a freeze up of the evap causing a high box temp and frost build up on the line and compressor.

Change the defrost timer.

Bad fan delay switch.

Most likely there is a charge issue. A low charge could create the issues you are having.

Also, a faulty or defrost clock could also create issues if the system is freezing up.

Hi John,

The symptoms do indicate a failed thermostat.

I am not sure where you could get a thermostat for this freezer but I would try contacting Norlake first. They may guide you to who has one or maybe they can sell you one. If it is a direct replacement it is something that you can do yourself.

http://www.norlake.com/

in most cases its the defrost element as the other units last much longer unless the fan has become jammed this happens when people toss meat hard against the back wall if you know how to do polaity test using a multimeter do test on defrost element its not a thermistate as new age frezzers dont use them they use timers and plastic channels to curculate cool air

good luck need more addvice email me

It is probably no more risky than drinking water from a clear running stream. The frost is formed from water vapour so as it is formes it is pure. I suppose it then depends on how old it is and what has come into contact with it. It should be ok though.

Look for thermostat. Usually located near the unit inside the conditioned space where the fans are.

either the cold control thermostat is defective or the rtc overload contactor has welded itself together and cant open and close the power contacts to the unit,un plug the cold control and see if the unit stops then