Mitsubishi Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

The cables could be loose,the electricals,are faulty,power supply is low,bulbs that are dying or firmware or software that is old.

the service manual covers all that. read it? https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Question edited for clarity and proper order, 'year make model engine'. For trucks, they are seldom free. https://www.google.com/search?q=mitsubishi+canter+2004+engine+4m51+workshop+manual ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Misc to model category. https://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/9nxqo-mitsubishi-montero-xls-crank-sensor-located.html Just close the chat box on the right. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+mitsubishi+montero+sport+crankshaft+sensor+location

Question edited for clarity, add maker, get rid of abbreviations. Question moved to model category. Did you disconnect the battery? Did you reset security and immobilizer? Did you Calibrate it? https://www.google.com/search?q=1992+Mitsubishi+Eclipse+1.8.+How+to+install+Throttle+Position+Sensor

THE Post is not clear at all (sorry I tried to understand it all) what fails intermittent,? dead starter? or always cranks fast but does not start the engine? some times. and runs for 10 seconds or longer.??? or under 10;/ when dead , for how long is it dead. does this car have and IMMO lamp and glows wrong and it hates both car keys? any engine dead is easy to diagnose as it stays dead ! so how long is that, 1min, 1day or only restarts cold? when dead the scan tool can see all EPA smog monitor status? it must allow that, and must allow all PID scans ,key on. all. or is this some lame $13 useless code reader thing? the PCM must allow full scanning, not just lack of DTC stored or live DTC errors., for example we can scan the ECT PID and see water temps at any time key on. do you? IMMO can allow an engine to run for 1 to 10 seconds when IMMO is failing, this is to get car out of danger even if key is dead. some cars. No to maker uses same rules on IMMO , but sure as shoot'n it immoblizes the engine in all cases up to 10 second later. if the starter motor does not fail ever, say so first the best way to find problems is to do the test while it fails. the immo lamp is covered in the free users guide lost from the glove box?

4 wheels not one told, bad. RF/LF/RR/LR??????????? we cant guess front or rear. why skip that? there are 2 parts here. the sensor and the tone ring(reluctor) gee these sensor is just removed and cleaned. even soap and water cleans off dirt. no magic there. but the tone rings are known to rust on some cars! and those are vastly more hard to deal with is the ABS failing for 1 wheel ,NOT TOLD , scanned ?????? if yes clean it, reset the pcm/bcm brains and if still ABS fails for same sensor then the wheel must come OFF. there. I will read the car maker TSB recalls on tone rings if faulty now. I SEE NONE ! there are lots of causes. besides 2 parts. sensor /ring wheel bearings shot. brake pads shot. suspension damage to that wheel failing mixing up tires sizes dead wrong. for car. the sensors come off with one small bolt.(flange) all 4 are different sensors do not mix them up marked LF for left front stamped on that sensor. they most be gapped correctly per this The correct gap is 0.012-0.035 inch here is the front wheel. exploded view dwg. the sensor 5 fits to the spindle 15 and the tone ring is behind, #9 bearing hub.

for sure not just a bad horn button or its relaywhen it alarms does the dash screen show door errors>?it is not a single system it is deeply integrated in to all.do not fool around air bags, or boom, they must be disabled first working near any air bag SRSI FEEL YOUR PAIN, MOST OEM ALARMS CAN NOT BE FULLY DISABLED (AS IN FOR EVER , HACKED?)IS THE CAR BATTERY FULLY CHARGED, NOT WEAK?ONE SOLUTION IS TO ASK THE DEALER TO DISABLE ITOR PULL THE HORN FUSE f8.. JUST TO GET SILENCEI AM NOT TALKING IMMOBLIZER HERE. JUST THE DOOR ALARMS.SCAN THE PCM FIRST (IT MAY TELL YOU WHICH DOOR FAILS)THERE ARE 10+ SWITCHES TO FAIL HERE THIS YEAR.FRONT AND REAR./DOORS CAN BE SOME TIMESMY CAR THE USER GUIDE TELLS YOU HOW. TO NOT SET ALARMS.ON SOME CARS JUST USE THE METAL KEY TO LOCK THE DOOR AND AND ALARMS ARE NOT ENABLED, RTM READ YOUR USERS GUIDE FIRSTYES SOME CARS THE SILLY ALARM DOES NOT TELL YOU WHICH DOOR SWITCH FAILS ,JUST THAT 1 IN 10 DID. 1 FOR LIFT GLASSYES A HUGE PAIN REPLACE ALL SWITCHES 1 BY 1./BUT IF MUST GUESS TRY DRIVES DOOR SW FIRST, IT GETS HARD USE.FIRST MAKE SURE FOBS ARE NOT BAD GOING TO PINIC MODETO DO SO, TAKE OUT FOB BATTERY OR WRAP THE FOB IN KITCHEN ALUM FOIL.OR FIND STEEL COOKIE BOX AND PUT ALL FOBS IN THE CANTHIS FORMS A FARADAY GAGEALSO A FOB BAD OR ITS BATTERY WEAK CAN BE IT.SO GO TO BED WITH FOBS ALL IN A TIN BOX. SEE IF IT ENDS PAIN. MANY CARS THE USERS GUIDE EVEN HAS SPECIAL MODESLIKE NO HEAD LAMP FLASHING EVER,(BY ARMED OR ALARM)JUST HAD 1 FOB HERE THAT WENT BERSERKOPENS TAIL GATE GLASS A 1000 TIMES AS WE SLEEP!AND DOING SO BATTERY NEW FAILS FAST. GOES WORSE.THE BUTTON IN THE FOB IS SHORTED AND CAN NOT BE REPAIRED.ONLY A NEW FOB. CHAPTER 3 IN YOUR MANUAL STATE( AND IS NOT CLEAR) USERS GUIDES ARE WRITTEN BY KLINGONS.Alarm deactivation The alarm can be deactivated in the following ways. By using the remote control transmitter to lock or unlock the door or to open the trunk lid. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position.Disarmed stage The system will be disarmed when either of the following steps are taken: 1. All doors are unlocked by the remote control transmitter. 2. The ignition key is turned to the "ACC" or "ON" position. 3. If the UNLOCK button is pressed when all doors are closed and no door is opened within approximately 30 seconds, re-arming will automatically occuR.I'D ASK THE DEALER FOR HELP. OR ANY ASE SHOP TOO.IF THE SCANS TELL WHAT FAILED WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO MISS THAT?on my car locking the door with key only , alarms are not active. finding this out on mitsubishi is not easy.some galant's have hood switch and if bad or not alignedboom justanswers saidThe only methods to disarm the factory alarm is to either use the wireless remote to unlock the doors while the alarm is going off, or use the key to unlock the car twice, either using the drivers door or the trunk lock.There is no other disarming procedure. If the lock cylinders do not disarm it, it is possible that both of your cylinder switches are bad.recap (my hit list) list shorter.check all fusesbattery main in car 12vdc not weak 12.6v is good or more.car starts can drives far ,day or night?horn button not bad, or clock spring shorts, steering col.keyfobs not bad, (remove all coins for testing) this test assumes the fobs are super bad and must be defeated. now.see if dash message shows,:door open alarm) <<< 11 switches to fail.scan the PCM to see DTC related to doors or alarm or horn.use the metal key to lock door, and not set alarm.some dealers can disable some features here, ask them.see next answer base on dead fobs or those gone mad.consider fob buttons can short and is never fun this. ever.consider drowned fob (wet inside,) battery out now.one more from justanswerslost fobs, or dead ones totally dead/bad or mad.Then to disarm you will insert the key into the drivers door and turn it twice to unlock. Either the drivers door or the trunk lock can be used for this.You can not simply disconnect the alarm on this model. The alarm is built into the ETACS (Electronic Timing and Alarm Control System). To disable the ETACS you would lose functionality of your locks, dome light, turn signals, low beam headlights and windshield wiper control. All of these functions are built into the ETACS with the alarm function.and more....

Question edited for clarity and add maker. Question moved to model category. Yes it is the same vehicle but it will need programming to the vehicle it is going into, VIN Number, Mileage etc. https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+Pajero+vs+1998+Montero https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

It sounds like you have already replaced the ECU and the turbo actuator but are still having issues with the engine management light. If you haven't already, it's important to check the wiring harness to ensure that all of the connections are secure. Additionally, it's also possible that the issue could be related to the fuel system, in which case you may need to inspect the fuel lines and check for any clogs or blockages. If you have access to an English wire diagram for your Mitsubishi Canter 13C Euro 5 2011, that might help you pinpoint the issue. Mitsubishi canter 13c euro 5 2011 engine management light on - Fixya https://www.fixya.com/cars/t29915400-mitsubishi_canter_13c_euro_5_2011_engineSprinter Van 11 Most Common Problems (2002-2020) ' San Diego https://www.sprinter.repair/11-common-sprinter-problemsSOLVED: How to reset oil light on Mitsubishi fuso fe160 ? - Fixya https://www.fixya.com/cars/t25327758-reset_oil_light_mitsubishi_fuso_fe160

Foot on the brake before you shift Lift up lightly on the shifter and wiggle If nothing pull the center console and check the shifter to see what is in the way

fresh water there has only 2 sources. 1: rain (or parked near powerful sprinklers) 2: condensate from HVAC Evaporator pan drain clogged are you using AC cooling? yes/no? or heater mode,in defrost ,mode ,yes/no? ,if NO and NO, see #1 rain gets from bad door gaskets(seals), or broken glass or from front top , front of windshield glass ,cowling drains clogged. take it back tell them they failed.

The tightening torque specifications for the Mitsubishi 4D35 engine can vary based on the specific component you're tightening and its location on the engine. Here are some general torque specifications for the Mitsubishi 4D35 engine:

1. Cylinder head bolts: 70 Nm
2. Connecting rod bolts: 40 Nm
3. Main bearing bolts: 70 Nm
4. Flywheel bolts: 120 Nm
5. Rocker arm adjusting screw: 10 Nm

These are just general specifications, please refer to the engine manual or consult a professional for the correct torque specifications for your specific engine. It's important to use the correct torque specifications to ensure proper engine performance and longevity.

Likely to be shift solenoids. You need a transmission expert or an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose. They are bi-directional so can instruct solenoids to work and verify that they do.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Mitsubishi+380+Output+speed+sensor++location

The issue you're describing with your Mitsubishi Pajero IO 4g93 could be caused by a number of things. When you shift into drive, the engine loses power and the check engine light comes on, it suggests that there may be a problem with the vehicle's transmission or with the engine control system. Additionally, a low mileage reading could indicate a problem with the vehicle's mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor, or other sensor that is responsible for measuring the engine's performance. It's possible that the problem is caused by a malfunctioning sensor, such as the Throttle Position Sensor, that is not being picked up by the diagnostic tool. It's also possible that the problem could be caused by a malfunctioning transmission control module, a problem with the transmission's internal components, or a problem with the vehicle's exhaust system. It's best to have a mechanic diagnose the issue to determine the cause and make any necessary repairs. The mechanic will have to connect the car to the OBD scanner to read the codes that the engine control module is storing and check the transmission's fluid level and condition, and check the vacuum hoses, or any other issues that could be causing the problem.

P0431 = Cat below threshold.Driving at mid RPM range for half an hour may help to regenerate the Cat but it may well be damaged from use of oil aditives.

have scanned for trouble codes---sounds like in limp mode

You remove the belt or betls off the crankshaft pulley. Remove the crankshaft pulley with a crankshaft pulley puller. Remove the old pin, reinstall new pin, then the pulley. Torque to spec and put belts back on

Question edited for clarity. Help in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+mitsubishi+nimbus+ug.+crank+angle+sensor+location ..