Milwaukee Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

These videos should help, they all work to a theme.

Kevin, Check out these replys/answers..... https://www.fixya.com/support/t11954240-18v_milwaukee_bandsaw_model_2629_20

There is help and videos in the link, but you can easily check the contacts with an analogue multimeter. You don't say WHY you want this information? https://www.google.com/search?q=18+volt+universal+charger+milwaukee+wiring+diagram ..

Screeching is always caused by dry metal on metal. It need oil on anything that spins or slides. See if the brake actually has fibre pads like the disc brakes on your vehicle. Google make model parts diagram All questions here need full make and model number, plus '(what it is)'. You got 2 of 3 :>D

If your Milwaukee 6390 circular saw is tripping the circuit breaker even without an extension cord, it could be due to a few reasons:

1. Overloaded circuit: The circuit may be overloaded with too many other electrical devices or appliances. Try unplugging other devices or turning off lights on the same circuit to see if that resolves the issue.
2. Short circuit: A short circuit can occur when the insulation on the electrical wires inside the saw becomes damaged or frayed, causing them to come into contact with each other. This can cause a sudden increase in current flow, which can trip the circuit breaker. Check the saw's power cord for any visible damage or wear, and consider having it professionally inspected if you suspect a short circuit.
3. Faulty circuit breaker: It's possible that the circuit breaker itself is faulty or worn out. Try plugging the saw into a different circuit and see if it still trips the breaker. If it does, the issue may be with the saw itself.
4. Motor overload: If the saw's motor is under strain or is overloaded, it can trip the circuit breaker. Check the blade for any binding or resistance, and ensure that the blade is sharp and properly aligned.

If none of these solutions resolve the issue, you may want to consider taking the saw to a professional repair shop to have it inspected and repaired.

To remove the spindle on a Milwaukee Hole Hawg 1675-1 drill, you will need to follow these steps:

1. Disconnect the drill from the power source and remove the chuck key.
2. Turn the drill over so that the chuck is facing upwards.
3. Locate the spindle lock button on the side of the chuck.
4. Press the spindle lock button and hold it down while rotating the chuck counterclockwise to loosen it.
5. Once the chuck is loosened, you can remove it from the spindle by pulling it off.
6. To remove the spindle from the drill, you will need to loosen and remove the retaining bolt that holds it in place. The retaining bolt is typically located on the bottom of the drill, near the front of the spindle.
7. Once the retaining bolt is removed, you should be able to lift the spindle out of the drill.

It is important to follow these steps carefully to avoid damaging the spindle or the drill. If you are having difficulty removing the spindle, you may need to consult the owner's manual or a certified mechanic for assistance. They will have the necessary tools and expertise to help you remove the spindle safely.

How did we go from a Cordless drill and battery to the steering on a truck?? :>D

limited info generic answer check tesioner refer to your manual on adjustment

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHcBKWVLfmU https://www.fixya.com/support/t24996454-remove_chuck_super_hawg

copy and paste https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/milwaukee/electric-drill/0235-1-serial-755-70423-milwaukee-electric-drill-driver-parts/1-2-keyless-chuck-magnum-drill

There are some youtube videos on how to replace the chuck and there are several sources for chucks.

The battery is not fully Charged. Please charge for 4 to 5 hours. The flash light works because it requires lower voltage than drill/driver to work.

This is what 7700 brings. https://www.google.com/search?q=model+7700 The search query is MAKE model replacement parts

I think it is the clutch, it must be off a notch on the inside there. The drill symbol is just that, drill, no clutch, No. 1 is the lowest clutch, easiest to ratchet, (supposed to be), and they get harder as you go up. That way you don't break off your screw heads or strip out the screw heads, just nicely torque them in there with the clutch. Have you had this apart? The clutch is pretty basic, you can try getting it apart and see if something is out of place.All it does is put pressure on the check so it won't slip. Check it out.

if it slips to easily that is a problem, but it is designed to slip some when the bit binds up in the concrete. If you feel it is too easy, I would not recommend trying to service at home. I used to work on them and they are a pain, the clutch is an assembly and I would recommend taking to an authorized service station so they can check the static slip on the clutch mechanism and then advise whether needs serviced or acceptable.

check for a broken -plug wire -wire connection

There are electronics in the base including a bridge rectifier that changes the AC to DC . If it or the relay are bad, you will have these problems. Use ohm meter to check bridge both directions.

Try unplugging the charger, wait for the lights to go out, insert the battery, and then plug it in.

Tec7gt7 ( recommend spray ) electrical safe for switch and motor commutator. for novice and expert. do not use wd40. Use if very dirth A cold degreaser for only cleaning the 2 housing parts

New armature + carbon brushes are much cheaper then replace a battery , if the tool give a sharp sound it have a problem with the armature ( it is a frequent problem by Milwaukee but also Panasonic on the Johnson made armatures that have both brands because of the latest winding technique more power but a problem heat dissipation and thermal runaway in the long run. The older Johnson armatures have no problems with the build up inside heat but have only some less and power worn collectors by many operating hours The best option is the cheapest decision first replace the armature only if the tool sounds sharp and not smooth anymore thats the decision and its the best choice if you are thinking that the battery has no capacitance anymore it will have longer life armatures have a lifetime between 2 and 3 years if daily use but can be shorter but no longer for the battery that will stay much longer there is with Li Ion no memory effect to fear Many people are mistaken in the fact that the anchor can be the problem of a rapidly emptied battery. If the armature has no problem the switch could be give the problem too but is relatively more expensive to replace. remove the brushes and make a measuring on both brushholders for the dc voltage that its not faltering without the load of a bad armature