This isn't a complicated a job but is a LOT of work. It will also depend on what tools and equipment you have. Changing a flywheel isn't really a job that you can do on your driveway.
If you are not sure in ANY way about what you are doing, get a good mechanic to do it for you. It will be the labour costs your paying for.
*NOTE* ALL the parts you will work with are VERY heavy and some will need Two people to lift and move. To replace it you will need to remove the transmission and anything bolted to the flywheel. You can then remove the flywheel itself.
Note - When you fit the new flywheel The bolt holes for it will only line up in one position so you may need to keep turning the flywheel until they all line up.
THE ECU/PCM CUTS SPARK AND FUEL MANY WAYS.
ON PURPOSE;. TO AVOID CRASH AND BURN AS SEEN NO TV.(&BY LAW)
SO CHECK FOR SPARK ON ALL SPARK PLUGS.
THE ECU DIAGNOSTIC JUMPER MUST WORK 1993(Or as book says)
IF NOT FUSES ARE BLOWN,
WHEN THE PCM SEES (MEANS DETECTS) ANY KIND OF SPARK FAILURE
IT CUTS FUEL FAST , ON PURPOSE
SO THE PCM MUST BE SCANNED TO SEE WHY.
YOU HAVE NO SUPER REAR OB2D FORD SCAN TOOL
SO THE JUMPER WIRE METHOD MUST TIRED, AND MUST WORKL
FIND THE SERVICE MANUAL IS THE FIRST ACT DOING DIY/ OR FAIL.
ALL THE FACT ARE THEY ,BUY ONE USED OFF FLEABAY.
PAPER BOOKS BACK THEN, NO PDF'S AT ALL OF 1000 PAGES YET.
ALSO I BET THE INJECTORS ARE ALL CLOGGED. FROM BAD FUEL
CAM SENSOR DEAD ?
ICM DEAD.
30 YEAR OLD SPARK WIRES ARE NEVER GOOD.
OLD SECRETS FROM 30 YEAR OLD BOOKS ARE NOT EASY TO FIND
I SEE THIS VAGUE HINT
Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the signal return pin of the Self-Test connector.
ONCE SPARK IS WORKING AND TIMED RIGHT
THE TEST FUEL SPRAY INSTANT START WORKS TO HEAR ENGINE RUN FOR 3 SECONDS EACH TRY AND HEAR IF ENGINE SOUNDS GOOD.
my wild guess , is use the ford way
https://youtu.be/-YYQKssOEOs
or search here this way
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=1980+to+1995+mercury+odb1+trouble+codes
the flash codes must work
or the ecu is bad.
power ecu is dead, 12vdc is 0vdc, ground to ecu bad.
again all fuses check, as in ALL.
first.
this guy discovers photo lights. so we an see, amazing,
https://youtu.be/CnQw6xMAYlE
if the jumper is missing?
it is just a 2 american made FASTON(tm) jumper, male
to a 18awg wire (18 is stronger and more robust) size does not matter only that it lasts. 20 more year,s grin
or use a unbent paper clip, of steel not plastic of any kind ever.
check oil level first. overheating can be caused by blown or leaking head gasket, ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, low coolant. take car in to shop you may incurred engine damage.
Question edited for clarity and correct spelling of Cougar.
Question moved to model category.
Jeff provides a great diagnostic explanations video, and the keywords 'Don't make Assumptions', or as I call it the "Let's try replacing this" method of vehicle repair. It is expensive and doesn't work. Electronic diagnosis by a professional grade scan tool computer is the way.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBUYs539cy4
RepairPalhttps://repairpal.com > ... > Mercury > Cougar > 2000
Nov 12, 2010 - I would check the fuel system first. Check for a tripped inertia fuel cut off switch in the back. Then, check for solid and steady fuel pressure ...
2 answers ยท Top answer: How are you determining that the spark is weak? I would check the fuel system first.
limited info generic answer get a service manual or check out some youtube videos on how to remove /split an engine from transmission to see if you have the skills and tools to do it
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
That is a lot of items changed for nothing. The flashing anti-theft light was telling you the answer.
Key
Insert the key into the driver's side door lock.
Turn the key once, but not all the way to unlock the door. Leave the key in this position for 40-60 seconds. ...
Do this again, but turn the key in the opposite direction.
Remove the key from the door, get into your Ford, and start the engine. The system should be reset.
Use AC sniff her to check the condenser valve. That should be a valve in it like a bicycle might have it could be leaking right there. I had to tighten that valve or also the dryer could have a crack in it. Also, the AC lines may have a crack or a breach
If I remember right, it is under the shift lever right on top of the trans. You have to remove the cable and take the nut off of the shift lever to access the switch.
It sounds like you are emptying one system, but filling up another system. You can probably send a video to the YouTube Channel 'Just Rolled In'.
Both the engine and the transmission have filters and drain plugs and fluid, but your question gives no hints as to which? Broadly speaking, if could also be the fuel tank and filter, or the washer bottle and filter.
Wow, that is strange Rick, as your posting history only shows this post. We do have someone that we suspect is deleting posts for points. I have called him out a few times!The are lots of ideas here. Start with the easy stuff, check Air Filter, MAF and clean the Throttle body.https://www.google.com/search?q=1993+Mercury+Grand+Marquis+losing+power..
All the classic symptoms of a cooling system full of air. I answered this question so many times, I turned it into a Fixya Tip. The problem is that the heater matrix is high in the vehicle dash and stays full of air unless coaxed out. Also, the heater control must be on full heat so coolant rushes through the matrix rather than trickling.
https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29872074-vehicle_cooling_system_no_heat
..
There is no turn signal / hazard flasher relay ? Controlled by SJB - smart junction box (body control module)
Principles of Operation
The smart junction box (SJB) sends multiple voltage reference signals to the multifunction switch. When the multifunction switch is in the LH or RH TURN positions, or the hazard lamp switch is engaged, that input signal is routed to ground.
When the SJB receives a request for a turn signal or hazard lamps, the SJB supplies voltage to the appropriate turn lamps.
Can't use LED"S
NO ENGINE TOLD ! 2.0 OR 2.5LITER?????????TH 8TH DIGIT OF YOUR VIN TELLS YOU WHICH ENGINE IS THERE, PLEASE TELL THAT FIRST.The alternator is overcharging. what makes you think so? a meter test.? scan tool shows DTC that said that>? OK JUST FLICKER, lights flicker, what light, heads, or charge lamp error or what? (i guess all) putting in 3 wrong alternators is painful , there are 2 used, here. on 2 enginesone is pcm controls, other is not. The 2 engines and matching ALTs: DURATEC -VE 2.5LITER ONLY ZETEC-VCT 2.0L ONLY THEY ARE NOT THE SAME. ALT ! NOR ENGINES DURA HAS 3 FUSES TO BLOW. BOTH ALTS USE THESE FUSES F30-CJB. 7.5a, CENTERAL JUNCTION BOX. and F2 =BJB, 15AMP BATTERY JUNC. BOX BJB AND FB 175 AMP THE REG IS INSIDE THE ALT HERE, NOT PCM DID YOU REPLACE THE ALT WITH THE NEG LUG ATTACHED, IF YES, THE 175AMP FUSE IS BLOWN BOOM ZETEC USES PCM REGULATION AND SAME 3 FUSES TO FAIL, 1,2,3.. THE 175 FUSE MUST BE GOOD. TOO. THE CORRECT GENERATOR FOR YOU ENGINE MUST BE USED THE DURA and zetec alternator gens can NOT be mixed up here ever! best way to buy any alt is by VIN # code or fail 1/2 the time or even 3times in row. or 175amp is blownif buying over the counter (a new alt) tell them there 2 kinds used in 2000, tell them the vin 8th code.
