Mercedes-Benz Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

A rattling noise is rather worrying, although timing chains don't normally break when you turn off the engine. Loose Belt, sounds like the Serpentine Belt, but if that snapped, the engine would still run. I think you need a tow to the dealership.

Some vehicles have separate flashers for indicators and hazards. Look around for another flasher and try changing it.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Misc to Mercedes. It appears to be a known issue. https://www.google.com/search?q=Mercedes+Axor+overheating ..

Question edited for clarity and moved to a better Category. Diagrams and videos as well. https://www.google.ca/search?q=mercedes+e350+belt+diagram ..

This code is showing a transmission problem. Your best option is to take the vehicle to a transmission specialist. If you don't know what you are doing gearbox mistakes are VERY expensive to sort out.

https://www.fixya.com/answer/answerpageslideview.aspx?thid=29852613&ctg=231&brd=6574

Check coolant level . leaking fuel lines while running and stopped, gas tank filler cap , temperature censor ,low oil pressure , crank censor and fuel pump . Could also be the ECU ...

It is called Parasitic Draw, one item is being left on and is draining power. Attach an ammeter to the battery. Remove fuses one at a time, keeping an eye on the ammeter. When you pull one fuse, you will see the reading drop a lot. That circuit is the one causing the problem. When you know the fuse, you can check all the things it covers. There will always be some draw because items like the clock and a number of modules are constantly powered. In general terms, you can't find work-arounds for problems like this, you have to fix them. Or, you can take the vehicle to a good auto-electrician.

NO COUNTRY told at all. sold world wide and not the same. sorry. no problem told at all , not even a tiny hint, only a false HUNT. must it be called a BCM??? German is K?rperkontrollmodul well those is USA /ASE /SAE names. (usa standards)_ we use are own names for USA EFI system devices the Germans use non of our names. they use THEIRS only the schematics on those are super hard to understand unless you read German./ what I do is print out those schematics and rename all those wild and strange names to ASE names. (did some full restorations) if you want to go full blown german and understand there wild elien conventions start here. https://automotivetechinfo.com/2007/06/information-help-interpreting-mercedes-benz-wiring-diagrams/ next time name a problem and I can show the schematic and tell (decode) the germans name to you, seen on the prints. we are fixya , not huntya. this car, say interior body systems failing controller is called N10 and a37 , N70 and more no problem told there can be no answer, ever. sorry , we can not see what fails on any car, IN THE BLIND. N69 is door brain

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Have you had the battery itself tested? Features like the lights and power windows do not use a lot of battery power. A starter motor will use at least 9 volts on a 12 volt battery. Batteries usually only last about 5 to 8 years before they start to fail, less if you have 'start-stop' fitted to your vehicle.

This model has its fuel tank in two compartment. one on the right, the other on the left. When you fill it full tank, both sides will be filled. When engine is running, the fuel pump sucks fuel from only (RIGHT SIDE) of the compartment. And the excess fuel is sent back to the LEFT SIDE of the compartment via the return pipes. When you reach half tank mark, the fuel in the RIGHT compartment dries out and the engine dies out but the fuel gage still show half tank. This setup depended on the siphoning effect by the pipes in the tank to suck fuel from the other tank and send it to the pump side tank. Read this forum on how to they solve the problem. https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/279833-fuel-system-info-needed__gas-not-returning-pump.html

Hello. A 'fan clutch holding tool', a 'metric' set of sockets, extensions and a socket wrench are all that is needed to remove/replace your car's water pump. A 'flathead' screwdriver and pliers are needed to remove the fan shroud and ductwork. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

I wonder which light you refer to.

Google ... 2 seconds and this; https://auto.needmanual.com/1998-mercedes-benz-sl500-sl600-r129-owners-manual.html

The most common 3 reason why your Mercedes is running rough are a vacuum leak, an issue with the spark plugs, or a problem with the ignition coil. Clean out the throttle body and make sure there is no ware at the butterfly pivot shaft .

need to start adding freon so the low pressure safety will reset to allow compressor to engage

Unfortunately Google has little idea how your 'A140' relates to a vehicle. All Car and Trucks questions must have 'year make model'. All others must have 'make model (what it is). To get good answers, you have to ask good detailed questions. Thanks https://www.google.com/search?q=A140 ..

Why would you need two?

Get this looked at as soon as you can, ignoring it will cause extra wear on other parts pushing the cost of repairs from 'Ouch' to 'Aaaarrrgh!'. The thump may not be the brakes. Does it thump as bad if you do it in reverse? As the vehicle brakes it's entire weight shifts forward so the most likely cause will be something worn out on the suspension, usually parts like a worn rubber bushing, worn shock absorbers (dampers), or a broken spring. Get all four corners of the suspension checked over as sounds can travel and appear to be coming from a different area of the car. As to the camber. It should have a tiny amount of negative camber as this helps prevent 'Wheel Tuck'. This is where the wheel and tyre tilts or folds under the vehicle during hard cornering. Tucking can 'pop' the tyre off the rim risking the vehicle tipping sideways and rolling over.