You can't, because the vehicle has an alarm and engine immobilizer that are all computer controlled by ECM, BCM and anti-theft module..
When the car was new, it came with 2 operational keys and 1 Valet key. The idea is that when you lose key 2, or you buy a car with one key, you have another made. You need an auto-locksmith for two new keys and programming.
The only mentions of hotwiring are people here on Fixya.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+Mazda+Soho+121%2C+1.3.How+to+bypass+ignition
..
The vehicle not moving could be a separate issueto the P code. Have you been having issues with gear changes before this, Crunching or grinding noises? Have you noticed any leaks under the vehicle? The most common reasons for no movement is low transmission fluid, a worn out clutch or failed clutch.
The trouble code refers to an emissions and performance part called the "Secondary Shutter Valve" (SSV). This code will not stop the vehicle moving but it could affect how the car behaves. The vehicle could 'stutter' or 'Buck' as you use the accelerator pedal.
Repairing time for this will depend on what and where the issue is with the SSV system.
P0660 - Secondary Shutter Valve Open
2.3 L MZR L3-VDT DISI turbo I4
contradicted at cranks no start and RPM zero.
the starter spins the engine 300 RPM cranking but most dash tacho's are dead below 500. sure.
Cranks ,then starts and then runs and for more than 10 seconds.
that is a serial process on engines. it may start and stall at 10 seconds.
no crank has 6 to 8 causes
cranks fast but will not start has up 50 causes.
we can not hear your starter spin here, nor see crank spin fast.
we are blind and deaf (<< ask us is not easy/)
lets go with cranks fast and will not start.( i chose it)
well , key on and the IMMO lamp must nut be Unhappy per the lost users guide,in the glove box.
the easy answer is this, using only physics, tests. using TOOLS
1: engine is dead. and compression or leakdown tests fail, compression below 150psion one or more cylinders.(4)
2: next is spark is 1 or more cylinder.s(all 4) a test,
3: bad fueling , non, or bad fueling, and pump sounds mean little none. pump pressure matters, another tool;. PSI
watch,do and then ask better questions.
cranks means only that the starter works and spins the engines crank shaft fast (keep the battery charged at all times on any dead car)
the fuel dribble test only matters if DRY..a pressure gauge test is the only tool to use. for spec pressure.(ask)
https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg
The only method I know is as follows, Ignition ON, Engine OFF. Press and hold the button for down. When the window is all the way down continue to hold the button for 5 seconds. Then raise the window all the way until it stops and again hold for another 5 seconds. Repeat this twice.
doing this will not damage the system so it is worth a try.
is leaking from water pump or housing mount to block. Pumps have a weep hole that will drip when seal is out. You are the only one there, no one can see it but you. Personally I would inspect the origin of leak and proceed from there. Perhaps you would better served taking vehicle to repair shop.
Sitting for that long is bound to cause issues unfortunately. Clean the Throttle Body and MAF, clean or replace the Idle Air Control. Surging is often caused by air entering the system where is shouldn't and the ECM tries to compensate and causes the surging.
Then take it for a good thrash down the highway for an hour!
https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+Mazda+Tribute+2.3+IAC
THE VIN CODE HAS THE ENGINE CODE. PART OF ALL VIN DO.LEARN THAT FIRST. (GOOGLE ,VIN DECODE AND BING0) ENGINE TOLD.ask that only in S.Africa, no such there is here USAcustom ECU is what it is. like our MegaSquirt is.https://www.dicktator.co.za/
I do not know the Mazda, but on most American cars, especially Fords that I am familiar with, it is normal that if you turn the key from OFF to ON (but not to start), the pump will only run for a second. It should run while cranking the car. This is a safety feature to shut off fuel in case of engine stall to limit fire hazard. In most systems, the fuel pump relay is controlled by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). In some systems, the fuel pump relay is controlled directly by the ignition switch and there exists a fuel pump control module which is controlled by the PCM. My Taurus has this. This Fuel Pump Control Module varies the speed of the fuel pump. If you have 1 fuel line system (no regulator on fuel rale and not a 2 line fuel system (regulator on fuel rail and a fuel return line to the tank), you likely have one of these modules. You can carefully check the fuel pump by bypassing the fuel pump relay. Find the relay, unplug it and jump 12V to the fuel pump. If this is a Bosch type relay, the power and load pins are 30 and 87. If it is a Ford system (it may be as there is a relationship between Mazda and Ford), it may be pins 3 and 5.
The bottom line here is that the PCM controls the fuel pump either through a relay or through a control module.
Hope this helps.
Best Regards,
MrFixr55
Question edited for a lot more clarity, typos and add CAPS.
Question moved to Mazda.
'knocked out' as in been in a boxing match, or something to do with the 'knock sensor'? 'Knocked out is not a known automotive term. Anything you want to know can be found here with the right words.
https://www.google.com/search?q=mazda+Bongo+f8+knocked+out
..
We are in North America and unfortunately this model is only sold in Japan for the Japanese market. We have no knowledge of it.
You are in Limp Mode to save the vehicle from irreparable damage. Limp mode enables you to get to the nearest garage. You need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose.
