Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.
Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.
Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.
Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.
Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.
Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked.
I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day.
Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet!
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If yours is a top loader it will mounted near the drum inside the machine. It will be a shaped block of concrete curved to sit close the actual drum. The most like places will be at the front, nearest you when your putting clothes in it, at about 3/4 of the way off the floor. It could also be in a similar place at the back of the machine.
Unfortunately, if you can't get to it, you need a new machine. Normally you would seal with silicone or epoxy putty. The only thing I can can think of is injecting polyurethane expanding foam into the area, but go easy it expands for 10 minutes and you would have to shield any moving parts.
Most parts are obsolete.
notify a repair company for quotes or online search for part ----fixya is an online repair forum we dont send repair personal out or sell manufacture or ship products
In the Maytag MHWZ400TQ01 washer model, the wire harnesses refer to the various electrical connectors and wiring throughout the machine. They connect the different components, such as the control board, motor, sensors, and other electrical parts.
To locate the wire harnesses and check them for any issues, you'll typically need to access the inner components of the washer. Here are some steps to follow:
Unplug the washer: Ensure the washer is disconnected from the power supply for safety.
Remove the top panel: Look for screws at the back of the washer holding the top panel in place. Remove these screws and slide the top panel backward or lift it up, depending on the model, to access the internal components.
Locate the wire harnesses: Once the top panel is removed, you should see various wire harnesses connected to different components. They are typically bundles of wires with connectors at the ends. These connectors plug into corresponding receptacles on the components.
Inspect the wire harnesses: Check each wire harness for any signs of damage, such as loose connections, frayed wires, or connectors not properly seated. Ensure all connections are secure and properly plugged in.
Repair or replace as needed: If you find any damaged wire harnesses, you may need to repair or replace them. Repairing involves fixing loose connections or re-crimping connectors. If a wire harness is severely damaged, it's best to replace it with a new one.
As for obtaining a diagram or parts list specific to your washer model, it's recommended to visit the Maytag website or contact their customer support. They can provide you with the necessary documentation or direct you to resources that can help you identify and locate the parts in your washer.
Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components and ensure the washer is completely disconnected from the power supply before performing any inspections or repairs. If you're unsure or uncomfortable with these procedures, it's best to consult a qualified technician for assistance.
If the washer works with the water temperature set to warm or other setting different from what you normally use, something is wrong with the water fill solenoid valve for your usual setting (warm turns on both valves). A stuck or clogged valve would probably buzz, but a burned-out valve solenoid would be silent. The timer is waiting for a signal from the water level sensor switch, so if no water is coming in, it'll wait all day.
If that isn't it, check the terminals on the wires going to the lid switch for corrosion. Next, check the power switch (operated by pulling the knob out) at the controller/timer unit. (I assume that since you replaced the lid switch you know to unplug the machine before digging into it.) You'll want an ohmmeter to test continuity and contact resistance, or at least a continuity tester. Also check the power wiring where it goes between the washer and dryer sections.
The problems of buying 'Universal'. Some need the correct OEM part because of the mountings.
Google
Maytag (model number) parts
Those simple three words will find you suppliers and within their model page search 'water inlet valve'.
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No wash agitation or spin? try these: WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly. mode shifter and or Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it. Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design. Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly. CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfWRyt1vj2wBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
