Maytag Freezers - Page 9 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

This is not a self defrosting freezer . Remove the plug and hose ONLY when you unplug to defrost . You should defrost when the coils get about 1/4 " of frost (ice) on them . Otherwise , the frost will act like the plastic insulation on electrical wire , not letting the coldness freeze the food solidly .

The drain is clogged behind the wall in the freezer you can do one of three things take the back wall inside the freezer off and thaw the drain in the bottom and clear it out,Pay someone else to do this,or you can mover your food for a day unplug the unit open the freezer door and leave it off for 24 hours allowing the ice to clear from the drain,seems to happen about every five or six years with Maytags..

Refrigerators and freezers should not be run on a GFI outlet the it will weaken and start tripping.Most manufacturers now print this in the owners manual.

Possibly a bad valve but more likely not enough water coming to the unit,follow the water line from the back of the unit to where it hooks to the pipes there is usually a little saddle valve there,try closing it all the way and then open it back up check the water through the door and see if the pressure doesn't improve. 
 You can also remove the Ice maker clear out the fill tube and sit a cup under the end of it for a day or two if you get water in the cup and Ice in the tube you probably have a solenoid valve that isn't closing completely.

If the fan in the freezer is working , but the compressor is not , then the overload/relay is bad ( pt # 4356738 ) . If you hear nothing , then the defrost timer is bad ( pt # 4357124 ) . This part looks like its located close to the compressor or in one of the corners of fridge on back with about 1/2 " hole to access manual turning slot . Turn the slot and see if fridge starts .

You have a clear and present fire hazard that should be looked at ASAP. Do not leave this appliance unattended and you should unplug it any time you are away from it until professional repair arrives.

Good Luck.

clean the coil behind the fridge or under the fridge (where ever they are) and make sure both fans are running, the one in the freezer and the one underneath or low on freon

I would first try turning the temperature down on your freezer before considering buying any parts. Your ice is freezing before it is reaching the position to dump in the bin. Also, if you have any items packed around the area where you ice maker is, try to free up a little space around it. If that does not work I would call the manufacturer, they will be more than happy to walk you through any problems you may be having with there products.

check defrost heater with ohm meter. if it is good then adaptive board is probably bad.

That will happen if the ice is not used for a while especially in humid weather.

The start relay, start capacitor and the overload located near and on the side of the compressor are the most likely cause. Let me know if you still need help, Sea Breeze

Hi, Check the rear panel inside the freezer and see if it has frost building up on it. If so, shut the refrigerator off for 24 hours or remove the rear panel and defrost it with a hair dryer.
It should be ok after that ubless the evaporator fan motor has gone bad.
Please let me know if this helps or if I can assist you further.

Vic

The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) Test Mode.

First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.

In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.


Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.

If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

A helpful schematic of the wiring can be found at the following website link http://www.applianceaid.com/images/mayadaptive-defrost.JPG

The control board will look something like this picture =>
http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/MaytagAdaptive.jpg

This is all happening in the fresh food compartment, up top which is where you will find it. It is very failure-prone, so you are definitely not the first, the relay in it is usually the failure. Be sure to unplug the fridge before disassembling or you could get a nasty shock. Been there, done that.

If you don't defrost the fridge manually, then you should let it defrost on its own by turning it off and leaving the freezer door open. Usually, I take apart the freezer and defrost the evaporator. But, if you can get by without it for a few days, just let the fridge defrost on its own.



Benjamin

It is possible that the door was not closed tighly, so the humidity built up in the duct line and the low temperature from the freezer make it turned into ice causing the clogging. The Buzzing noise turns on due to the sensorsomewhre along the disigne path. Unplug the fridge for a day and a half so the the ice in the duct line could melt down then when you turn on the sensor won't turn on the buzzing any more. Good luck.

If you have the model number you posted under, you are looking at replacing the evaporator fan motor, which would be a part number 4309014 for that Maytag MQU1556A. It is located inside the freezer, behind the lower back wall.

Kindly check the following

Wiring

Thermostat

Defrost timer

Compressor

If you can hear some sound of a fan then the compressor is working..As for the other devices you have check for open circuits. You may need an assistance from a repair person.

Check also this link and it might help:

http://apwagner.wordpress.com/2008/05/22/5-common-freezer-problems/

Hope it helps and have a great day!

HI, your Temperature Control Module has failed. it controls the air flow and vent(damper) action. replacing the temp control mod will fix this issue you are having at this time.

You could expect internal compressor oil to flow into areas which would restrict refrigerant flow, resulting in no cooling. If you have to ship on end, make sure the compressor end is down !

Yes order it at www.bcaparts.com