Mantis Garden - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You have nothing connected to kill tab on the ignition module? The module is asymmetrical so it can't be installed backwards.Measure coil secondary resistance of both original and new module. I don't have the exact spec and range can vary widely in small 2 stroke.Are there any calendar dates on it... not finding the model as Mantis.Comment for further assistance.

Troubleshooting: Airlock in the fuel system: If the fuel bulb is not primed correctly, it can cause an airlock in the fuel system, which can prevent the engine from starting. Try priming the fuel bulb again and see if it helps. Clogged carburetor: A clogged carburetor can also prevent the engine from starting. You can try cleaning the carburetor with a carburetor cleaner. Faulty spark plug: A faulty spark plug can also cause starting problems. Check the spark plug and replace it if necessary. Fuel quality: Poor quality fuel can also cause starting problems. Make sure you are using fresh, clean fuel. You can also check out some helpful videos on YouTube that provide step-by-step instructions on how to troubleshoot and fix a Mantis tiller that won't start. Mantis Tiller won't start, maybe this is why??? - YouTube Fixing a Mantis Tiller that will not start - Springtime Start-up Techniques - YouTube Top Reasons Tiller Engine Won't Start - Tiller Troubleshooting - YouTube

Implies carburetor low speed fuel circuit lean. Increase low speed fuel/air.

Initial setting is 1 1/2 turns. Increase idle speed enough to keep the engine runnning so a proper adjustment of the low speed air/fuel mix can be completed.

Basic rules; Always adjust low speed a/f first, then open throttle and adjust high speed a/f. Any low speed adjustment must be followed with a high speed adjust. Error on the rich side for high speed. Allow engine to reach operating temperature for final adjustment.

Other potentual issues, fuel quality, fouled carburetor, old impulse diaphragm (carb), carb to engine intake gasket leak, crankcase leak.

Removing tines makes it easier (safer).

Question edited for clarity, spelling, sentencing, punctuation and written English including your own name :>D So you start the engine and it runs, the tines turn, and when you apply throttle and apply it to the soil, it stalls? That means the Carburetor needs setting up, or you have a fuel supply problem.

Yes it seems a fair assumption. All three should be the same. https://www.google.com/search?q=Mantis+7222M+magneto+test ..

Screeching sounds are never a good sign. Dry bearings, seizing piston. Two Stroke or 4 Stroke engine? Appears to be two stroke, did you have oil in the gas? The videos might help https://www.google.com/search?q=2+year+old+Mantis+tiller ..

Two cycle engines don't prime the same way that 4 cycles do. A 4 cycle engine shoots fuel into the intake, and a two-stroke like what you have, pressurizes the carburetor and removes air. When you press it, it should harden, and then will slowly let fuel bypass the carb and go back into the fuel tank. Because of the ports and the design of a 2 stroke, shooting fuel into the intake would be bad for the engine.

I am guessing but I haven't seen any recoil starter use a thicker cord than about 6mm or 1/4" - when replacing it the repair guys seem to take it off the same roll regardless of what they are repairing.

In the Mantis 2-cycle tiller: SV number is located between the gas tank & the carburetor, behind the gas line, on a black and silver tab on the silver engine housing. It will consist of the letters "SV," a number and another letter.

Fuel lines need periodic replacement... plenty of how to videos out there.

Here is a pdf I found. Follow the link. I hope this helps. ~Heather

Likely the carburetor is fouled. Possibly the fuel vent is blocked or bad fuel.

their is no compression release might have a problem with the valves

you have hole in bulb or the fuel line check both or replace

50:1 you may have put to much oil in your mix just little gas to the mix

.020"

Check the kill switch ... might be bad . I believe those are old school 2 stroke engines. If so it has 2 magnets on the flywheel a park plug wire that runs bk to a magneto ( kinda looks Ike a horse shoe with a big plastic wrap of wire in the middle sitting just off of the flywheel. That needs to be properly spaced off of the flywheel. Where I suspect you issue is would be under the flywheel. If you remove the flywheel with a flywheel puller then under it you will find a condenser and point system.. The contacts on the points usually get corroded . They can be cleaned but really they are like 10$ ... replace them . The points do need to be spaced. About the distance of 2 pieces of loose leaf paper when closed . The magneto is spaced the distance of one loose leaf cover. The cheap cardboard ones and use either the back or the front but not both pieces. I'm certain those are old school style. And not plug and play computer.