Mackie Music - Page 7 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Try cleaning al of the sliders using an electronics cleaning spray. Choose one that contains a lubricant as well. Dirty sliders can cause this especially at low volume levels. If that does not cure the problem, there may be a defective IC inside the unit. Many mixers use opamp ICs as buffers and final stage amplifiers. These are inexpensive and can fail in that manner. Without knowing the specific make and model ogf your unit, I can't give you any details. Please post the make and model and I'll try to provide additional possibilities.

Dan

May be a couple of things; The first is a resonance in the cabinet, which may not be noticeable at high volumes. If the speaker cabinet was ever dropped,or got cracked from dropping , dry weather,or whatever, there may be certain frequencies that make the cabinet rattle. Try holding the cabinet when it rattles and look for anything loose,from a side wall to a loose foot, or the speaker itself. Tighten up loose items and seal any gaps or cracks On the cabinet. The other problem could be a partially blown speaker. Test by lightly pushing in on the outsides of the speaker to see if it moves in and out freely. If there is a scratching sound, or it drags slightly , it might be blown. Also,the dust cap or another part of the speaker may be loose. Check that, and reseal if loose. Replace or have reconed if blown.

i) I assume the fuse you mentioned was in the mains plug - did you also check the fuse in the TH15A mains input socket? This is accessed by pulling out the tab in the bottom section of the socket (below the centre pin). This is a 3.15Amp antisurge fuse, 20mm type. ii) If this fuse has blown, then replace it & all may be well ...... but if it blows again, then move to step iii). iii) With mains disconnected, remove rear panel (outer screws) & check the power supply PCB for damaged components, especially R111 & R112 (100ohms). If the latter are burnt or open circuited, then the amplifier module may have blown. regards, Dave

Do you have the existing resistor, Larry? Is it crisped up, or can you still read the colored bands? Those colored bands are a color code indicating its resistance - if you can read them off here, we can tell you what its resistance is. As to wattage... that's something we could at least estimate from size & shape, weighted a little by speaker wattage rating (that resistor should never see as much wattage as the rating). Last... if we knew for sure what every other component is (from its printed labeling), we could reconstruct the schematic and calculate that resistor's value. Reverse-engineering a crossover designs is far from being rocket surgery. 8) I offer these as alternative approaches; it may be near-impossible or impossible to get that schematic.

Genuine and consistent random flashing is normally a cable fault if is the main VU graph but there are other symptoms as well. If is the O/l (Clip) or Solo Leds on a channel strip have you checked for earth loops etc? Does it do it all the time or only when there's a signal? Which Leds are flashing and is there anything else that is not behaving correctly? It would seem if you can get a repair shop to have a look this would be your best bet.

mistakes happen everywhere, there are some models that come with a factory fault, just because its a human who designed it. but good thing when the notice the problem its quickly sorted out, and mostly they replace the model with another one.

Yes, that's how they're made: cable cut to length, connectors attached, tested, packaged and shipped.

If you give us a clue what this is on you might get ome help

Almost certainly the amp has failed, as per usual with these, you need to take it to the repair shop and see if it's worth fixing it then sell it once working or for spares if not. Sadly whilst Mackie make some really good kit their powered speakers are not amongst the most reliable

There is almost certainly a reason the PSU has blown, these are not very reliable units and the amp has probably gone and taken the PSU with it. You are better off taking it to a dealer and getting it fixed. If there is no power on the seecondary and there is no short the transformer must have blown (assuming you're not trying to check with a DC meter)

It sounds like you're new to 'professional' mixers. You would NEVER normally use an aux for effects. Any effects will normally be inserted in the sound chain using an insert. You have a pair of group inserts if you are wanting to apply an effect to the output (these are after the mix) and would typically be used for master de-essers or possibly compressor limiters or maybe even an equaliser, it would not be sensible to use an effect like a delay/reverb here. I would have expected you to be using the group outs for the monitor mixes and am not sure what you may be using them for otherwise. If you used these you would free up 4 of the Aux outs for a 'multi channel' reverb/echos which you could take back into other channels and back into the main mix. What is it you are tyring to achieve?

no sticky drinks near mixers ;) well PFL doesn't affect the sound but it is annoying if it remains on. try to !gently! hammer on the button. I don't know how to explain but the button should be hit fast that it can snap off. maybe like a snap with your fingers. You can also remove the button's cap and try to pull it out.

Turn gain CCW. plug microphone in, mute the channel. turn gain CW until peak LED flashes (while singing loud!) and turn gain back a little bit. Take the channel fader down, unmute the channel. Put masters at 0dB (near maximum) and adjust the loudness with the channel fader to what you like. EQ: it always depends on your location. Keep it flat. You might like to reduce at about 200-300 Hz. Cut the low end (Hi Pass Filter = on) or if no HiPass reduce "bass" for about 6...10dB. ok?

have you checked the voltages after that?