Luxor Televison & Video - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If you wish to get some details; visit the sites linked here. Pull up older posts. https://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ http://homenol.blogspot.com/ Faults & possible causes to LCD & Plasma screen are given with illustrations. You can get an idea about the fault to an extent. Search the site by type in the "BRAND NAME" of your device; (Exclude the model number), in the "Search box at the top right of the display window of the Homepage" to get gathered related posts. //

Try doing a factory reset and see if that helps.

If you can also change channels on it, then it will be most likely the T-Con board that has a fault on it. It's quite a common fault these days. In fact I have told three other people just now of the same problem all on different TV's. If you know what you are doing you can replace the board quite easily most times. Providing you get the right board.

Sounds like the power board has failed. Unfortunately, the cost of a replacement board is too high compared with the low cost now days of new 32 inch sets.

I'm guessing the latter set of numbers are the serial numbers of the two parts. If so, there should be no functional difference. If these are circuit boards, compare them side by side. If the layouts are identical, and most of the parts appear identical, they are probably equivalent. (The chips containing firmware may have different markings, and the date codes on the larger chips will probably be different. Date codes are usually in yyww format, e. g., 1335 means the chip was produced in the 35th week of 2013.)

I assume these are connected to the HDMI inputs on the TV. It could be a defective HDMI selector chip. The TV should still be under warranty if you bought it new. If so, find your sales receipt and take it back to the store for an exchange or follow the manufacturer's rule for a warranty repair..

First, check the volume and mute settings, especially if there is another person in the house who may have changed them, and check another channel or input to ensure the signal source is not the problem. Next, verify that the sound is set to use the internal speakers, or that the external sound system is set to the input from the TV (some TVs with external sound output connections can be set to disable the internal speakers so they don't interfere with the external sound). If you have no sound on any input, muting is off, and the volume indicator acts correctly, then the audio circuit on the main board is defective, or the audio power supply needs to be repaired. If your TV has a sound output connection that you have not connected, try connecting it to an external sound system and setting the TV sound to go to the external sound system. If it works, then you have narrowed the problem to the sound power amp in the TV, or to a bad power supply (some TV models have a power output specifically for the audio amplifier, although that is not common). Most of the time, power supply failures in LCD TVs are the result of burned-out electrolytic capacitors. These are usually identifiable by the domed-up top of the capacitor, as pictured here. Note the flat tops on the good capacitors nearby. If you see these on the power supply board (the cable from the power board connector goes to the power supply), have them replaced with Panasonic FR-series capacitors; these usually have the best combination of price, power handling capacity and longevity.

Since you didn't give the model number or connection type (wired Ethernet or Wi-Fi), I'll start with the Ethernet setup, and I'm assuming you have not previously had the TV connected to the Internet. First, disconnect power to the TV and the router. Power up the router first, and wait for it to establish its connection to the modem. Then connect the TV and turn it on, then test the connection. If that doesn't work, proceed to the next step below. Review the Owner's Manual section on setting up the Internet connection. Check your router setup and make sure the TV is using the correct method for making connections to it, and that the router is not blocking the TV as an unauthorized device. By default, home routers are set up to use DHCP to automatically give IP addresses to anything connected, but many models permit setting them to block everything except devices specifically given permission. It is also possible to set up the router to use manually assigned IP addresses instead of DHCP; this would mean you have to give the TV an IP address in the same net as the router (the first three numbers in the set are the same, but the last must be between 0 and 255 and not the same as any other connected device. If the router locks out everything except specifically permitted devices, you will need to log into the router and add the TV's MAC address to the list of permitted devices (the MAC address should be on a label on the back of the TV). If your TV uses Wi-Fi to make the Internet connection, first verify that you have adequate signal strength at the back of the TV (use a laptop computer or other device with a signal strength indicator if the TV itself does not display it in the Wi-Fi setup menu). Next, verify that the TV is using the same security protocol as the router, and that the password is correct. (Note: if you have a wireless router, it's always a good idea to make sure security is on and is not using the factory default password. This prevents freeloaders from stealing bandwidth and slowing down your connection, hacking your devices, or using your Internet connection for other ******* activity.)

Secret menu https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtDh8uihumY

If it has the controls on the TV it would be marked video input.

you can buy stick on square conduit from electrical whole salers to cover cables

Sounds like The main power supply regulator section circuit fault. Either it will be a separate board, or the part of main board. Check and replace damaged component/s at its main power regulator [SMPS] section circuit. Contact any service technician. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. https://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ It will be best to replace the power supply regulator board as card basis rather than making "Surgery" to it; which usually will make loss for both money and time. Even though you can make it right, it will cost around an amount equal to the cost of a new board; including the cost of (spare parts + service charge) More to say, most of the spare parts to it will be difficult to get from open electronic spare part market. This is true to most of the flat panel TV power supply boards; irrespective of its brand and screen size. Search the site by type in the "brand name" to your device; [Exclude the model number], in the "Search box at the top right of the display window of the Homepage" to get gathered related posts. See the site by a desktop. Mobile view has no search box. If you are viewing it by your mobile, see it in webview./