Lutron Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

I suggest contacting Lutron's tech support center at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and can help you out.

Having said that, can I assume that the red, white and black are all coming from the same romex? If so, the trick to doing this properly is to understand how the 3-way switch at the other location is wired up. In other words, of the red, white, and black wires... only TWO of those wires are connected to the other 3-way switch (I'm assuming this is a 3-way circuit given that you bought a 3-way product). Once you've identified the color of those two wires, on the dimmer, attach each of those two wires to one of the red wires coming out of the dimmer. The remaining wire coming out of the wall (red, white, or black) should then connect to the black wire coming out of the dimmer.

Sometimes a hellacious lamp blow-out or lighting strike can knock out the dimming element in the device. Call their tech support line at 1-800-523-9466. You may want to suggest that they upgrade you to a 1000-Watt dimmer so that the issue doesn't happen again.

The switch has gon bad on you. You need to replace the dimmer switch

The issue you describe is pretty open-ended. Rather than diagnose through e-mail, you'd be much better off calling their tech support service at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and can ask the right questions to point you in the right direction.

The two most usual reasons are:
- The minimum load requirement hasn't been met (should be at least 40-Watts of lighting load)
- The lamp-type isn't compabitable (the product is rated for incandescent / line-voltage halogen - not CFLs or LEDs).

Regardless, I would recommend calling Lutron's tech support at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and can help you investigate further.

Double check the model number - is it a TG-600PH or a TG-603PH?

If its a TG-603PH, and this is part of a 3-way circuit (there's another light switch that turns the lights those same lights on & off), then this is normal. If you flick the other light switch, you'll then see that the dimmer works like it should. This has always been the case with 3-way switches, up doesn't necessarily mean "on" and vice-versa.

If its a TG-603PH, and this is part of a single-pole circuit (this is the only light switch for those lights), then the product is miswired, and upside-down. To fix the miswire, look at the screws on the back of the unit (ignore the green grounding screw for the time being), two of those screws are made of the same material (same color), and only one of them should have an electrical wire going to it. Take that wire out and put it on the other screw of the same color. That fixes the miswire. Then when you re-install the device, flip it upside-down from what it was before.

If its DEFINATELY a single-pole, TG-600PH, then call their tech support center at 1-800-523-9466 - because that makes absolutely no sense.

Good luck!

I would call their tech support line at 1-800-523-9466 (available 24/7). The fluttering is obviously not normal, but in an environment such as an MRI room, there are more troubleshooting steps involved than I think could be delivered in this type of textual back-&-forth environment.

Indicator light is OFF.
Either dimmer stopped working or power to dimmer is off.
Check if electricity is present inside box.
Check nearby electrical plug to see if everything nearby has power.
Swap dimmer with regular switch and see if lights turn ON.
Check dimmer wires: if wires to dimmer are pushed into 'quick connect' holes on back of dimmer, these wires can get loose.
If dimmer is connected by wire nut, sometimes a wire can pull loose.
If no electricity is inside the box, and breaker is ON, then there is a loose wire inside one of the boxes on that circuit and electrician has to track back until loose wire is discovered.

Replacement parts for in-wall devices are not made.
If new dimmer is necessary, consider lighting factors:
Total wattage of lights. New dimmer has watt rating.
Type of lights. Dimmers specify florescent or tungsten (incandescent) or both.
Single-pole and 3-way. If two dimmers control same lights, one is control dimmer, other is companion dimmer.

There are no repair parts for in-wall electrical devices.
When they go dad you buy another.
Lowes and Home Depot carry inexpensive dimmers.
Look for 3 things:
1) Wattage: most off-the-shelf dimmers are 500-1000Watts. Add up total wattage.
2) If you are dimming incandescent bulbs, dimmer package will say tungsten or incandescent.
Package will say florescent if dimmer also works for florescent bulbs.
3) If dimmer is 3-way, with a dimmer on either end of a room, many times the dimmers are sold as a package of 2 dimmers with 1 dimmer that controls the other dimmer.

Lutron dimmers
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/Pages/DimmersSwitches.aspx
Leviton dimmers
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=15265&minisite=10025

You have 'quick connects'
Next to hole where wire goes in, is slot for small screwdriver.
Push screwdriver in real firm while pulling wire.

Unfortunately, no. Its a neon bulb that gets soldered into the product, so its not something that can be tweaked or replaced. My suggestion would be to call their tech support number 1-800-523-9466, and see if you can get them to replace the whole dimmer.

Thank you for including the Manufacturer, Model and Model number
Lutron makes a long list of products.

I found the product manual at Lutron: and am looking at the instructions
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/033100b.pdf

The Lutron device replaces an ordinary single pole switch.
It is not made to control compact florescent bulbs, just incandescent bulbs.
The switch has to have a ground wire.
Lutron tech assistance 1-800-523-9466 (included just in case I cannot find the trouble)
Troubleshooting in manual: They mention 'upper LED on wall control cycle rapidly.'
The solution is to check wiring, which we will review.
The fan and lights are supposed to be on high (this means your pull chain controls located on fan)

Let's review the wiring.
The switch wires connect to either brass screw.
The switch wires are usually black. Let's say they are black.
One of the black switch wires travels to fan in a cable.
This cable has 2 wires: a black and white.
This cable goes to fan.
The black wire carries power to the fan.
The power wire, or Hot wire from switch connects to the Module-black wire.
The Module-white wire connects to the Neutrals (which are white and usually twisted together and covered with a wire nut).
So all your Neutrals are joined together and covered with wire nut.
The Module-red wire connects to light-wire
The Module-yellow wire connects to fan-wire.

I'm looking at this wiring and it seems so straightforward, I can't find a problem.
According to the troubleshoot, the fan could NOT work properly if the wires were reversed at the Module.
The switch wires connect to either terminals, so there's no confusion there.

1) Unless you forgot the ground wire, or 2) you're using compact florescent bulbs, or 3) the light is not on high, I can't see where the problem is.
I suggest you call the Lutron tech support number.
They may suggest a circuit analyzer, for example a small voltage ground fault in the line might affect their device.
In any case, I want to know how this turns out because I specialize in electrical devices.
Add a comment and keep me updated.

The watt rating is absolutely critical to the operation of the device.
The high heat is a direct result of too much amperage flowing through the dimmer.

Reduce your wattage immediately or stop using the dimmer.
You have a fire hazard.

According to the math, you have 20 - 65 Watt bulbs
Change 12 of the bulbs to 40 watt and you will drop to the 1000W max.
12 x 40 = 480W
8 x 65 = 520W
Total = 1000

However I am worried about this circuit.
A typical 15 amp switch (not a dimmer, but the switch) is maxxed-out at 1440 Watts.
So if you had 20 100 watt bulbs for 2000 Watts, it would heat up the 15 amp switch
It seems very odd that an electrician would put 20 lights on one circuit without having a 20 amp switch and 12 gauge wire.
Look at the markings on the switch you replaced and look for amps or watts.
And then look at the color of the wire cable inside your box ... 12 gauge wire is yellow and the lighter-weight 14 gauge wire is white.
If you have a white wire going to all those lights, then you are going to burn down the house unless the total wattage is reduced.
Volts X Amps = Watts.

I think your circuit needs a review to make sure it has the correct wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire2.html

This being said, Lutron makes 1800 Watt dimmers.
You can web search: 1800Watt single pole dimmer
If you have yellow-colored 12 gauge wire, it can carry up to 1920 Watts

If you want more help, add a comment and I will answer

Go here:

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/033100b.pdf

If your dimmer was working correctly in the past, and suddenly started doing this, then your dimmer is probably gone bad.

If this is a new installation, the wiring could be wrong, or the dimmer could be wrong.
For example you purchased the companion or accessory dimmer rather than the main dimmer.
Or the wiring is put on the wrong screw.

If this is a new installation, add a comment and fill in the information and I can troubleshoot.

What is the model number of your dimmer.
For example the Maestro MIR600.
Are you replacing a single-pole switch or a 3-way switch?
Are you using 2 dimmers in a 3-way application?
What color are the screws on your dimmer?
What color are your wires and which screw do they go to?

I answer questions for free.
I specialize in timers and electrical devices.

There are not replacement parts for electrical wall devices.
You can pull out the device and see if there is a loose wire that caused the pop.
But today's dimmers are electronic, and if there is a pop, I bet the circuit board inside the dimmer has been ruined.

If you need more help, add a comment and I will respond.

I answer questions for free.
I know electric wiring and can help.
But you need a better explanation.
What are you doing?
Did you replace something.
What device did you put in?
Is this a 3-way device at one end of a hall?
And I'm a little unclear about " all house lights on light the hall but all off will not turn off the lights'
If you add a comment I will answer

Need to know what is your issue. If you are asking how to hook it up it is a simple task. First you need to confirm if it is a single pole or 3-way switch. Does more than one switch control the light? If not is a single pole switch. I would first turn off the power to the switch you are replacing. Check this by turning on the light and turn off breakers one at a time until the light goes out. Take out old switch and connect new one. tkae one wire off old switch and connect it to one wire on dimmer. Doesn't matter which one. Take the second wire off the switch and connect it to the remaining wire of the dimmer. If you have a ground wire (bare copper wire) connected to the old switch and you have a bare or green wire on the dimmer, connect those together as well. Mount dimmer in box, re-energize circuit and you should be good to go. I am curious why you are using a 1000 watt switch (unless you are controlling more than 600 watts of lights)(9 65 watt bulbs = 585 watts). Let me know how you make out. Hope that helps.

Unfortuantely, when something like that happens, its usually because a piece of plastic in the design broke, and ends up not being something that can easily be fixed in the unit itself. Your best shot is to give their tech support center a call at 1-800-523-9466. They will most likely replace it and you can give them a call 24/7.

Call their tech support center at 1-800-523-9466. First of all, they should be able to send you a replacement. You also may be able to talk them into a different product that doesn't have the same issue. I think the challenge you're having is that its a slide dimmer, and for whatever reason, the slider is just falling down ever-so-gradually over time. They make another product (the AB-600M-WH) which fits in the same opening and works off of push-buttons rather than sliders.