Lutron Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

The dimmer when purchased probably said that it was for incondescent lighting only and you have compact fluorescents. Replace them with regular bulbs and the problem will go away. People who buy and install their own dimmers may inadvertantly buy one that is for motor control only or fluorescents only and not read the instructions on this.

That is because the dimmer is designed for incondescent lights and you are using compact fluorescent. To solve the flickering problem add at least one regular bulb to the system. If there is only one bulb then replace with a regular bulb if you are using a dimmer.

Check rating plate on device, or rating that shows in product manual.Also if the dimmer does not need neutral wire to power the device, then it will be rated for incandescent-only, and not be rated for CFLThis dimmer is for incandescent light only up to 600 watts, and will not work as expected for CLF bulbs etc If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

That switch says on it that it is for fluorescent lights only. I don't know if you can use compact fluorescent bulbs on that system, perhaps verify if you can or not. The switch has electronics in it and may need that ground wire to get 120 volts to operate. If you have incondescent light bulbs return and get the correct dimmer.

These are probably three-way switches being used as two-way. If so, then the switches will have three terminals, but only use two. Just switch one of your wires to the other terminal. If the light will not light, that was the wrong wire. Don't mess with it without turning off the breaker! Good luck.

I doubt it. They are designed for a 3 wire cable going to a ceiling fan with 2 loads. They likely would not design a special 2 in one switch if one side is a 3 way. You will have to have 2 switches and a double box to do the same job.

I can't locate the Lutron D1500 dimmer switch on Lutron web site. Perhaps there is a different number for it.Anyway, you are attempting to dim a total of 800 watts of light. A standard dimmer switch will not handle this much of a load as they are rated for 600 watts. A 1000 dimmer is the next size up and would be the minimum rating to be used. This means the dimmer would be operating at 80% of capacity and the switch may become warm - but all within acceptable limits.A dimmer switch rated at 1200 watts or even 1500 watts may be a better choice, as the 800 watt load would present a load that would only be 66% and 53% (respectively) of rated capacity, and would likely run cooler and last a lot longer.The down side to these higher wattage rated switches is their cost. It is not unusual for the price to double for a 600w vs a 1000w dimmer. Sometimes, a 1000w dimmer is not sufficient to control a 600w load. This happens when 2 or more dimmer switches are installed in a single location under one wall plate. It is a fairly common arrangement for electricians to install 2, 3 or more "ganged boxes" so that there aren't 2, 3 or more individual switches clustered around a doorway. Even though a two ganged box has twice the area of a one gang box, the issue is about heat dissipation. A box will contain the heat. So the heat is given up from the front of the switch. The metal fins provide more area for cooling. When two or more dimmers are located in a multiple-ganged box, there is too much heat for the space. Two 600 watt dimmers would need to be derated to about 450 watts each (instructions for derating are included with the switch - each manufacturer has their own formulas), and if three 600 watt dimmers were in a single location, they might need to be derated to 300 watts each. So, simply moving to a 1000 watt or 1200 watt dimmer may not get you to the 600 watt level if there are several dimmers that require derating to 50%. Installing dimmers in boxes with standard "toggle" type (non-dimming) switches require no derating as toggle switches do not produce appreciable heat. Make sure that the lighting load is a type designed for dimming. The popular CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) are not designed for dimming, unless the package specifically states otherwise. Lights that have a filiment but no transformer, ballast, starter, etc. are the only ones suitable for use with a dimmer (again - unless the package / fixture states otherwise). The dimmable types are typically "standard" incandescent, quartz, halogen and tungsten types. Furthermore, a dimmer switch is not suitable for use as a fan speed control either. There are special switches to provide speed control of fan motors. Use of a dimmer on a motor load is a fire hazard. I hope this helps & good luck!

To the two black wires in the box

We are truly sorry for your inconvenience and want to help. Please call our Technical Support line at 1-888-523-9466 and we'll be happy to discuss the issues with you.Craig, Lutron Technical Support Leader

No. A remote must be able to learn IR codes or already have the Lutron codes installed.

You probably had a fan/light fixture there. One set of wires (probably coming from the dimmer) would be for the light. The other set of wires (probably coming from the switch) would be for the fan. With the power off, temporarily hook up two lamps, one to each set of wires. Then turn on the power and see which switch controls which wires. It is possible that one set of wires is passing through to another light fixture - in that case, that wire will be dead. Good luck!

No, Dimmers are basically resistance devices. The max load on them is not at full brightness anyway.

Hi - The Lutron D600P is a preset single pole dimmer. Wiring is pretty straight forward as show in this diagram. Recheck wiring and if OK, continue below.If power is present on both wires (black / red wires), power is being passed through the switch to the lamp and the light should be on. If not, try replacing the lamp.Minimum recommended connected load is 40 watts. This switch is ONLY for use with filament type lamps - such as traditional tungsten, halogen, etc. It is NOT to control speed of Fan Motors, nor dimming of CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) energy saving types or other ballast operated lamps such as High (or Low) Pressure Sodium, Metal Halide, Fluorescent, etc. as this would create a high heat condition and could cause a fire.If you're still having trouble, you can contact Lutron Technical Support Center 1.800.523.9466 24 hrs / 7 days www.lutron.comI hope this helps & good luck!

Which dimmer do you have. So I can look up the manual.Are you using a fan dimmer, or light dimmer?Does the dimmer feel warm to touch? or hot?What does the dimmer control? Incandescent? Fluorescent?How many total watts are being dimmed?Is this a new dimmer or old dimmer that started having a problem?Add a comment with as much detail as possible for best available answer. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Is this a single pole switch? Or a timer switch that is rated for 277V? Or a dimmer switch?Please include brand and model number and what you are controlling when adding comment to this thread.277Volt has one hot wire and one neutral wire, exactly like 120volt.Just like ordinary on-off switch for 120v, the 277 Volt hot wire is switched on-off, while the neutral remains continuous throughout the circuit.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If your dimmer smells burned, it probably is.As general rule, there are no repair parts for in-wall electrical devices since they are contained inside sealed plastic shell to prevent fires.The burning smell was high heat and melting that would have caused a fire if in-wall electrical devices were sold without safeguards.Replace dimmer.Be sure to check watt rating on side of old and new dimmers to match correct load rating.Take out of son's allowance, and make the future electrical genius help read small print on instructions and install new device.Turn power off to replace device.Use non-contact voltage tester to check that power is off.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.htmlhttp://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Most switches have two openings at each terminal. One is round to accept the stripped wire and the second is square / rectangular. The second opening is to insert a small screw driver and gently press in. This pushes the spring steel out of the way and allows the the wire to be withdrawn. You must do both at the same time however.Some lack the second opening. In order to relase the wire from the switch, you will need to twist the switch back and forth while pulling the switch and wire apart from each other. Ripping the wire out or cutting the wire off will render the switch useless as it will not be able to grip a wire again. Take your time, and of course, shut the power off.Good luck!

Hi, I am an electrician and can help you with this problem.Most switches (and plugs for that matter) that provide an option for terminating wires by inserting them in holes instead of using screws, also provide a means of releasing the wire. The device on the right in the image below shows openings to do just that:By pressing a small / thin screwdriver tip, nail, etc.in the release opening(s) adjacent to the wire(s) - you will relieve the spring tension that holds the wire in place, and can easily pull the wire out. Not all devices provide a way to release a wire however. These devices will require either cutting the wire close to the device or a "pulling away" while "twisting back and forth" motion of the device to get the wire out. The conductor will likely be scored as a result.Attempting to release the wire from a device should only be done with power off, as inserting a tool into the holes will place it in direct contact with energized parts.Lastly, some words of caution. You should reconsider using this method to terminate wires on devices. A screw terminal provides a much better electrical and mechanical connection. The comparatively small contact area provided by the internal spring can quickly heat up under a load. Once heated, the spring metal loses strength and the connection worsens. Eventually it fails - hopefully before the heat causes a fire. No electrician would wire his own home with these connections, you shouldn't either. If you insist on using these connections, do not reuse them. The springs lose strength when the release opening is used to get a wire out - and loses shape (weakens) after a wire has been pressed in.I hope this helps & good luck!

I will take anybody's broken Lutron dimmers. Please let me know... Marty

Hi John, I'm an electrician and I think I can help you with this problem.First and foremost, this switch's 2000VA / 1600W electrical rating is based on a incandescent load.Let's do do the math on this one.. 18 x 50 = 900 watts. So, you're under the 1600 watt capacity, but I think this is a bit more involved than this. I'd be willing to bet that you're not dimming a 12 volt circuit - but rather a 120 volt circuit that supplies one or more transformers that step the power down from 120 volts to the the 12 volt bulb voltage. A transformer is an inductive load. A transformer's inductive load is completely different than the incandescent load the dimmer is designed to control. The transformers are rated for 120 volts and will have issues including heat problems if provided less than the rated input voltage to provide a reduced output voltage you want so that you can dim these lights.This switch will not work on the output of the transformer in this situation either because the significant amperage being switched here. Each of these lamps draws a bit over 4 amps as determined by ohm's law: 50W / 12V = 4.16A. The total load at 12 volts is (again, Ohm's law) 18 x 4.16A = 74.88A ! That means the wire would need to be a #4 or #2. This is about the size of the cable on your car's battery (only amperage determines conductor size - voltage determines insulation).A dimmer on this circuit will not work unless the fixtures are changed so that no transformers are used to supply the lamps. This includes fluorescent lamps (compact or otherwise) unless the packaging specifically states that they can be used on a dimmer. You may wish to contact Lutron Hotline at 800-523-9466 for additional help and suggestions. I hope this helps & good luck!