Lutron Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

It is neither - it is rated for incandescent lamps only. It sounds like someone suggested that your puck ligths are being controlled by electronic low-voltage transformers, in which case, if you wanted to stick to the Skylark family, should be an SELV-300P-WH.

If you're not sure about any of this, I suggest calling Lutron's tech support line. It's at 1-800-523-9466, they're available 24/7, and can double-check the recommendation.

I wouldn't spend a lot of time trying to hunt it down yourself. Call the tech support number at 1-800-523-9466. First of all, they're there 24/7. If its the wrong size knob then it sounds like you just need some help matching up model numbers. If you can find the model number on the dimmer itself, that will help - but call them up and they'll probably just send you the parts you need.

Did you remove the dimmer switch or alter the wiring whilst putting the ceiling fan control in the wall? If so you have obviously wired it back up the incorrect way. How many original wires were at the light/dimmer switch. Will need to know colours etc?

Hi,

Do other things on this circuit work??? Are you sure that the circuit breaker reset and it is on again....

Sometimes the power off and power on cycle will surge the dimmer enough to kill it...
I would get a meter and make sure you still have power at the switch...

heatman101

This is a common concern with dimmers, but if you're seeing no issue with the actual lighting performance, then what you are experiencing is completely normal. Most of the heat that people notice comes from the screws that attach the faceplate, in which case my recommendation is to get a faceplate that covers up the screws. If that doesn't answer your concern, then call Lutron's tech support center at 1-800-523-9466 (available 24/7) and they can walk you through any troubleshooting you may need.

Hi Jay,
Ive suspect that there's a problem in the main line of the wiring. Since four halogen bulb are already replaced with a new bulb and bypassed the dimmer switch concentrate now on the wiring and the main panel board. Look for a tripped/busted breaker on the box, reset it.Replaced if busted. If nothing works, you need to check the wiring on the ceiling for open.
Hope it may help you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using fixya.
JDVillanueva

No problem, merely a misunderstanding. That's actually the point of that product (the 'g' in the model number was the clue). This is their "eco-dim" line of products, and its specifically designed to not let the lights go over 85% light level. Its a means of using the dimmer to help guarantee energy savings and lamp life extension.

If this bothers you, then I would return it and grab one that doesn't have the "g" in the model number.

Yes they do.

No, you can only use one dimmer, the other switch has to be a regular three-way switch.

if the outlet was wired right and working fine before -- then ' yes ' the GFI has tripped and it could have failed do to the rain. replace the outlet with a new GFI outlet and I would also suggest that since you have the outlet outside that you install it into a outdoor weather proof outlet box.

c...

Your best solution is to call the company's tech support number at 1-800-523-9466. Depending upon the details they may be willing to replace it for you.

They're right, you don't want to control the whole thing with a single incandescent dimmer. First of all, the fan-speed and the lights will all be controlled by the same dimmer setting (dim low, low fan-speed - dim high, high fan-speed) - and the dimmer's not rated to control fans anyway which can result in exactly what they said.

There is a Skylark control, the S2-LFSQ- where half the knob controls the light, the other half controls the fan. The only problem you may (and most likely) have is that in order for that to work, between the electrical box for the dimmer and the fan, there needs to be seaparate wire run for the fan, and a separate wire run for the light so that the dimmer can individual control both.

If that's a problem, I recommend the MA-LFQM-, which includes a module that you install in the ceiling with the fan. The wall switch it comes with speaks to that module, and gives you independent control of the fan and light without having to install new wiring. I have one of those myself, I've installed one in one of my friend's houses, and they work pretty well and then you don't have to worry about what wires you've got in your wall.

You miswired the switch. One of your black wires is misplaced.

This is single-pole -or- 3-way dimmer
Manual shows on following link:
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/0301107A.pdf

1) Manual says: The red/white wire is not used in a single-pole application. Twist a wire
nut over this wire for a single-pole application.
2) Green wire connects to bare ground wire. Or bare ground to bare ground.
3) Connect dimmer-red and dimmer-black to either insulated wire that came off of old switch

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I think you need a provide a little more information in order for there to be a possible solution. I'm particular confused by your use of the term "eventually" - these are analog dimmers, there are no "smarts" involved with this products, so I don't get how it would magically turn itself on to a higher brightness. Regardless, you will be able to get a much quicker answer by just calling Lutron directly. Their tech support number is 1-800-523-9466, they're available 24/7, and it won't cost you anything. They can help you diagnose whether its something related to installation or whether the product has simply hit the end of its life, and they can probably assist you with gettting a replacement as well.

If you could describe the previous lights/switches configuration and how it was changed, I think I can help solve your problem.

Charlie

The other switch should only be changing from one wire being hot when it is in the up position to a second wire being hot when it is in the down position. Then the new dimmer should be hot on one terminal when the other switch is up and on a different terminal when it is down.
I'm not sure how the Leviton dimmer works, though.
Gary

This, unfortuantely, is one of the usual challenges associated with dimming. The buzzing usually gets worse at around the 1/2 light level point. I don't think the issue has to do with whether the lamp is halogen, but rather how the lamp is physically constructed - and that differs from manufacturer to manufacturer. Long story short, I would take note of the lamps you purchased, and when replaced, I would opt for a different manufacturer.

These in-wall devices stop working and need to be replaced from time to time.
There are no repair parts.
Generally dimmers don't last as long as ordinary light switch, because they are electronic instead of mechanical.

Lutron makes the widest selection of dimmers.
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/Pages/DimmersSwitches.aspx

Use link above to identify dimmer.
For example Skylark dimmer.

Then google search for a replacement.
For example: single pole 600 watt lutron skylark dimmer
Or: 3-way 600 watt skylark dimmer
Lutron also makes 1800 watt dimmers for larger loads.

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replace with orignial stile switch