Lutron Electrical Supplies - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

Sounds like a loose connection. If they all fo out, it's at the beginning of the circuit. Check all connections at the start of circuit. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Sounds like it needs to be repgramed, but it may not be in the switch, maybe in the lamp/fan receiver (sounds like the wireless one), if this is the wired version, you may have to check all connections to make sure they didn't come loose.

If each fixture has an individual transformer, the chace is that they are electronic (about the size of a matchbox car) If so, you have the wrong dimmer installed. You will need to install a MAELV (Electronic Low Voltage) Dimmer. The regular dimmers are set up for Magnetic Low Voltage and incandescent which work differently. http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/362219.pdf

Here is a link to the difference in how they work. Also, if they are a Low Wattage light like an LED, the dimmer may not have enough resistance to bleed off the excess voltage. The MAW-600 has a minimum load of either 25 or 40 watts. If you are operating LED's you may also need a Low Wattage Interface to act as a simulated load that wires in series with your lights. (lut-lbx)

If it gets too anoying until you get the proper dimmer, you can switch the Air Gap switch at the bottom to the off position. This completely disconnects the power to the load side of the dimmer.

Good Luck

As a general rule, grounding will not affect operation of dimmer.
Type of dimmer, type of switch being replaced, type of load, and how you connect wires will affect dimmer.

Here is Lutron dimmer switch page
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/Pages/DimmersSwitches.aspx

What is the load? Are you wiring dimmer to a ballast? Or fan? Or incandescent lights? Or florescent lights?
Are you replacing a 2-way or 3-way switch?
What color are your dimmer wires?
How many wires were connected to switch?
Can you re-install the switch, and know where each wire went?
Did you replace a light with a fan, and then want the dimmer to slow the fan? Not every dimmer will work with a fan, or florescent lights.
Dimmers cannot dim LED lights.

If I know what type switch you are replacing, and the type of load you want to control, and the specific dimmer you have, I can answer the question.

The dimmer is worn out

Wall switches and dimmers don't come apart for repairs >> nobody sells parts >> and the wiring didn't suddenly go bad.

The dimmer should have nothing to do with the tripped breaker... Just disconnect the dimmer as a test. The dimmers are normally in series with the hot side of the line and if they short the controlled lights will remain on, if they open, then the lights will not come on at all. If the machine had somehow been plugged into the lights, then that probably blew the dimmer.

The floor cleaner MAY have overloaded the wiring and the breaker MAY not have protected the wiring and there is melted insulation and a short someplace.

If you can't find the smoking gun, get an electrician to evaluate the problem for your own safety.

I don't think that model is for a 3 way switch . It is for fan speed control only. Green is ground, and one incoming and one outgoing "hot" wire. You will need a different part number such as:
AYFSQ-F
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/0301277A.pdf

You will have to replace the entire switch. If they are not to old sometimes they will exchange them out for a new one

they are only around 40 dollars brand new. locate the breaker cut power and replace. Loose and not working can some time be tightened but this is a touch dimmer so it sounds to have gone bad.

No you will have to replace

Whenever this happens usually we have found it is the actual Dimmer unit itself, that faults, this needs to be replaced to return full function to your light system.

Hi,
The touch control burned up... probably a power surge... google a replacement touch control... they are not that hard to replace..

heatman101

Possible power supply problem--low voltage from master unit or dead batteries at each switch. Good luck!

I had the same problem. You just have to push the slider down a bit harder. It will click and will be completely off.

Remove the two screws holding the cover on. Then the two screws holding the switch into the box. Then there are three wires black and white copper, un insulated. Unscrew the screws that are holding the wire on and replace them in the same place on the new one. If the wires are plugged into the back instead of screws. You will have to cut it and strip it. Or you can stick a tooth pick into a small release hole right beside of the wire. Then pull the wire out.

All your wiring looks good. Many times dimmer just have problems and are faulty. You should note that the dimmer can only handle 600 watts. If you have that or more on it, than you have probably fried the dimming mechanism. In either case the dimming mechanism is not working properly and you will have to take it back and get the same dimmer or a different one. Tell the store they sold you a faulty dimmer and you can get a replacement at no cost.

If you are having to use the small air gap switch at the bottom (left to right, or pull out on newer versions) of the rocker to turn the lights on/off then the triac inside is fused and you will need to replace the switch. The triac is the piece that "dims" the lights. Once it is fused, the dimmer bar on the right side won't work, and the main dimmer button will not work either.

The dimmer connections should go like this.

Black from dimmer to black Constant Power In Wall
White from dimmer to Neutral (Whites) in wall
Yellow from dimmer to wire out to light (usually black)
Green from dimmer to BARE GROUND WIRE

It's quite probable these units have gone faulty, due to the "Outage" see my previous post below.. You will need to replace these units, to restore functions. Please, have a read below, it may save you many $$ We have all had them, Power Outages, inconvenient, and also very deadly, well to Electronic equipment anyway. You see when any Circuit, is Made or Broken, at the instant of contact, when reconnecting, the current draw is considerable, also, after the connection has been made, and the "Load" being connected, and the Current draw is large, all sorts of transients, Spikes, Surges, Oscillations, is reflected, up and down the entire network. Now along with this, MOST people do NOT completely remove, the unit from the mains, by withdrawing the plug. nor, probably, even turn it off. This is wrong, ALL/ANY electronic equipment, that is connected to that Grid, will also encounter a phenomenon know as "Inrush Current" Now, this Inrush Current, Can and Does cause a great deal of damage to electronic equipment, the, instant reconnection, without going through an ON/OFF switch, and Power Conditioning Circuitry, well, the initial Current draw for that instant, is incredibly, high, and with nothing between, the current surges in, stressing everything, in the Power Supply, and more. Now along with that, you also have Transients, Spikes, Surges, Ringing, Oscillations, caused by the reconnecting of the Circuits. Joining of Cables, or Contacts. When the Power Goes OFF, you should NEVER leave anything plugged in after a Power outage, you need to withdraw each and every plug, from ALL Electronic equipment, note here, purely resistive, and relay type equipment is usually immune, it must be removed, and it shouldn't be reconnected, until about 5 minutes, AFTER the Power has been reconnected. This is to Avoid, all of the bad things that are caused by the reconnection back onto the Grid. If you do this, you can be assured of you Electronic items, lasting at least as long as they should, and not suffer premature deaths.

There are two possible problems. Usually the FA-AD MUST go on the power end of the 3-way system and the FAELV-500M must go on the "switch leg" side of the 3-way system. If you have them reversed then the AD will not work because it does not always have power. The other option is that there may be a small "air gap" switch on the accesorry dimmer that disconnects power but usually that will make neither switch work.