Lutron Electrical Supplies - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

You posted under Lutron 3-way dimmer.

You didn't say the number of screw terminals on device or color of those screws.
If your device has two brass screws, then it is single pole.
If your device has 2 brass screws and 1 dark screw, then device is 3-way
If you are replacing 3-way switch, identify wire on dark screw >> connect this wire to dark screw on dimmer. Other two wires connect to either brass screw.

If device has wires instead of screws, the color of those wires is an important clue.
Answer back with the colors of those wire and it is easier to help.

Different dimmers are suitable for different types of lighting.
In an effort to help you, I searched my files for Lutron dimmers.
Lutron has 17 dimmer types, with numerous models under each type
They don't show DL-3PS
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/Pages/DimmersSwitches.aspx

Lutron has NT-3PS
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/NovaTDimmer/Pages/ModelNumbers.aspx

The NT-3PS is a 3-way dimmer.
Here is wiring manual:
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/wallbox_wiring_6_7.pdf

If the help above does not get you going, answer back with more information and we can help.

Yes. The dimmer can be installed at either location - I think the instructions only describe the one location just to attempt to keep it simple.

To connect it at the other location, use the instructions you have, except where it says to connect to the house-wire that has 120-volts on it (connected to the breaker), instead, connect it to the house-wire running to the light fixture.

If I understand correctly, you have the Lutron Pico wireless control
And you have the Lutron Maestro companion switch or companion dimmer
Pico will not work with ordinary wall switch or dimmer >> it has to be a companion product from Lutron


I have read the PICO wireless manual, and it shows no instructions for communicating with the companion wireless switch or companion wireless dimmer
http://www.lutron.com/Products/SingleRoomControls/MaestroWireless/Pages/Overview.aspx

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/369-144f_Pico_Wireless_Control_SpecSub%20%286%29.pdf

I have read the 120V Companion switch manual and it shows no instructions for communicating with the PICO wireless control
http://www.lutron.com/Service-Support/Technical/InstallationInstructions/Pages/InstallationInstructions.aspx?syst=Single+Room+Controls&prodn=Maestro+Wireless%C2%AE

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/030865c.pdf

1-800-523-9466 for technical support
Technical support online appears at page bottom

Normally manuals give you some clue as to how the product works.
The PICO manual says it's easy to control lights (I guess it's easy for mind-readers)
There seems to be no answer or hint when working with the PICO.
I think Lutron tech support is where you go from here.

Let us know what you discover

If I understand correctly, your are replacing a GFCI receptacle with another GFCI receptacle

And your existing GFCI has 3 black and 3 white wires

And there is not a switch involved in the changeover.

I downloaded the manual from Lutron
http://classic.lutron.com/CMS400/techinfopage.aspx?id=22163

Every wiring diagram in manual shows:
Black wires connect to brass-colored screws
White wires connect to silver-colored screws

The brass and silver colored screws are typical of all residential receptacles. The color-code tells the electrician which terminal gets the black and white wires.

Are you having a problem putting 3 wires onto 2 screws?
It is a common problem.
You can buy a short piece of white and black wire at hardware store
Lets work on the black wires as example:
Strip back insulation on short piece of black wire
Hold together two of your black wires and start twisting them together
Now add the short wire to the two black wires you started twisting
Now twist together the two blacks and short black
So three wires are twisted together and you have a short lead that can connect to screw on GFCI
Put a wire nut over the twisted wire
Now you're ready to connect other end of short black wire to brass-colored screw
This reduces the number of wires that connect to screws

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html

The easiest answer would be to wire them in the exact same way as they wired before with the prevoius receptacle. However, as I am assuming that is no longer a possibility...

If this is a normal receptacle that does NOT work off of a wall-switch, then I suspect that one of those black wires is the power feed, one of those white wires is the neutral from the breaker, and the other two sets of wire are branch circuits to the other receptacle. If that's the case, connect all three black wires to the receptacles 'hot' screw (probably brass or copper), and connect all three white wires to the receptacle's 'neutral' screw (probably galvanized, silver color).

If the receptacle used to power off of a switch, honestly, a written descipriton isn't going to do it justice. You'll need to understand the role of each three sets of wire before you can wire properly. If that's the case, say so, and I can attempt to walk you through it.

The most likely possibility is that the dimmer simply broke. I would call Lutron tech support at 1-800-523-9466 to help you diagnose it and possibly send you a replacement (available 24/7).

There's a lot of stuff here, and you may need to clairfy a few details to get to your exact answer. There are a couple of different products that Lutron makes that have the combination fan & light combo, and you may need some help figuring out which one it is. However, the details of this are simple enough that you should be able to simply call their tech support number and have someone walk you through it. They're at 1-800-523-9466 and they're available 24/7.

I'd try to give you a more thorough answer but trying to walk someone throught he wiring combinations on-line like this tends to add more confusion than necessary.

This, unfortuantely, is one of the usual challenges associated with dimming. The buzzing usually gets worse at around the 1/2 light level point. I don't think the issue has to do with whether the lamp is halogen, but rather how the lamp is physically constructed - and that differs from manufacturer to manufacturer. Long story short, I would take note of the lamps you purchased, and when replaced, I would opt for a different manufacturer.

5-Amps

Home Depot only carries a handful of items, but the parts are available elsewhere. Your easiest path is probably to just call Lutron's tech support at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and can probably just send you some.

Without more detail, there's not much info to be provided here. Their tech support, however, is available 24/7 to give you a pretty quick response. I advise getting the model number of whatever "panel" you're referring to - and if you can't, at least be prepared to describe what the thing looks like. Their number is 1-800-523-9466

Lutron Dimmer manuals
http://www.lutron.com/Service-Support/Technical/InstallationInstructions/Pages/InstallationInstructions.aspx?syst=Dimmers+%26+Switches&prodn=Maestro%C2%AE+dimmer+%26+switch

Lutron manuals show a couple things that might be affecting you lights.
1) Wattage: If you have wrong wattage dimmer
2) Type of light bulb: Dimmers work on different types of bulbs
3) Wiring: You say you got 3 wires going to the chandelier? Why you got 3 wires? Is this a 3 way switch? Are the chandelier bulbs wired separately so you can control groups of bulbs with different switches?
Does the dimmer have 3 screws? A dark-colored screw and 2 brass screws? If so, then that sounds like a 3-way dimmer. A 3-way, is where more than one switch controls the same light.

Does the dimmer have 2 screws? Then that dimmer controls a single circuit. Your black Hot wire from breaker box connects to one screw and the black wire to Load connects to other screw.
A quick glance at Lutron wiring manual shows that Hot and Load wires connect to either screw.
The question is your 3-wires from the chandelier ... does the black Hot wire from breaker arrive in the ceiling box first? Or does it arrive in the wall box first? If your Hot arrives in ceiling box, then the Hot must come down to the switch box and connect to a screw on the dimmer >>> a second wire connects to other screw on dimmer and travels up to the ceiling box where it connects to black wire on chandelier. The white wire on chandelier connects to white Neutral.
4) Dimmer might be bad

If this is a new dimmer, please check the wiring.
If you are having a problem with wiring, re-post your question with exact model number

If your dimmer is old, the electronics inside dimmer have probably gone bad

When buying a new dimmer, watch for two things
1) is dimmer rated for enough wattage?
2) Is dimmer 2-way or 3-way

If your wallplate is hot, that is a sign of trouble, and possible electrical fire. That dimmer is not made for the load, or it is going bad.

Turn off the dimmer immediately. Do not use the dimmer at all. Replace with a wall switch until you have the correct dimmer.

Each dimmer is rated for Watts. Ordinary electrical switch is rated by amps. Ordinary 15 Amp electrical switch can handle up to 1400 Watts. This means 14 - 100 watt bulbs.

Dimmers are usually not rated for 1400 Watts. They have 500-600 Watt rating. Look at the side of your dimmer for Wattage information that is usually printed on dimmer.

Heavier-duty dimmers cost more and can carry more wattage. Some dimmers carry up to 1800 watts. These kinds of dimmers have aluminum heat sink visible right on the face of dimmer.

In any case, your dimmer is an electrical fire hazard and should be replaced. Add up total wattage of your lights, and read new dimmer package when buying.

Up-vote if this information is helpful. Thanks for the feedback.

Which product is this (the one pictured doesn't have an LED indicator on it)?

I would call their tech support number 1-800-523-9466 to diagnose (available 24/7).


I suggest this because I can think of a few possibilities (is it a dimmable load or a non-dim CFL - is it an LED load that might not meet the minimum load requirement)? And I think the answer will differ based on what product you're using - do you have a model number of what product it is?

There's more answers that are needed to diagnose, so I would call tech support.

You have to run the 3rd wire all the way to the switch, whether it hits any lights or not, I have seen electricians pull a single wire in to the box with the 14/2 and that would be the jumper. This will work on any lights, and the lights only need the 2 wires, It is just the switch that needs the 3 wires. Good luck.

The best I can do is tell you how a 3 way and a 4 way switching circuit works, once you understand that all you have to do is throw in the dimmer (note: you can only have one dimmer in a circuit, the rest of the switches must be simple on and off switches). I did some research on the dimmers you purchased to use, and it claims that the accessory dimmers can be used along with the MIRELV's as you have said but in my experience when you try to do something like that, one dimmer would have to know what the other two are doing, and that is not happening, and unless the current is electronically controlled on the whole circuit by each dimmer, you'll never get all three dimmers to work.. So lets see if we can get it wired properly and get it to work, if not you will have to try using one dimmer and two regular switches and see if it resolves your problem. In every four way circuit there is at least 2 three way switching devices, one at the beginning of the circuit where the power comes in and one at the end of the circuit where the power goes out to the lights. You can have numerous 4 way devices in the middle of the two three way devices. So let start at the first 3 way device, which will have three terminals one it. Every three way switching device has whats called a common terminal, this is where your incoming power attaches. Then you have 2 "traveling" terminals where your traveling wires will connect (called this because your power will travel to or communicate with your four way switch through these wires (note: you cannot mix these wires up or your circuit will not work). Order doesn't matter at the three way, but at the four way you need to keep them straight; there are four terminals on your four way switch designed to pass the current along that you fed it from the three way. The are two types of four way terminals, some times incoming wires go on top or bottom terminals, sometimes on left or right side. Either way if incoming wires are on top and you have red wire on one side and black on the other when power leaves at the bottom you keep the colors on the same side (Note: all these concept apply if your dimmers have pigtail wires to attach the wires to as well). And once you get to you final three way switch you want to keep the traveling wire colors the same as the terminals on the first three way switch. The power will leave this last switch and go out to your lights through the common terminal. If your dimmers happen no to work, remove two devices and replace with two normal switches, just make sure they are three way or four way switches as needed (remember four ways go in the middle of two three ways). Three way switching and four way switching is very confusing, and I know the Lutron company won't try to explain how things work, just take your time with it.

Lutron rocker switch also called a Decora style

Sadly, yes, it just sounds like the switch got stuck. You should be able to yank that knob off and try to manually unlatch it with something thin and long (like a pencil) - just, do me a favor, and make sure whatever you use isn't conductive, there shouldn't be any exposed electrically, but just be safe about it.

If that doesn't work, call their tech support center at 1-800-523-9466 - they will most likely replace it for you.

you must have an led dimming controller also wired to grxtvi 0-10v