Lutron Electrical Supplies - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues
How do you release the wire that attached thru the hole of the switch
Hi, I am an electrician and can help you with this problem.Most switches (and plugs for that matter) that provide an option for terminating wires by inserting them in holes instead of using screws, also provide a means of releasing the wire. The device on the right in the image below shows openings to do just that:
By pressing a small / thin screwdriver tip, nail, etc.in the release opening(s) adjacent to the wire(s) - you will relieve the spring tension that holds the wire in place, and can easily pull the wire out. Not all devices provide a way to release a wire however. These devices will require either cutting the wire close to the device or a "pulling away" while "twisting back and forth" motion of the device to get the wire out. The conductor will likely be scored as a result.Attempting to release the wire from a device should only be done with power off, as inserting a tool into the holes will place it in direct contact with energized parts.Lastly, some words of caution. You should reconsider using this method to terminate wires on devices. A screw terminal provides a much better electrical and mechanical connection. The comparatively small contact area provided by the internal spring can quickly heat up under a load. Once heated, the spring metal loses strength and the connection worsens. Eventually it fails - hopefully before the heat causes a fire. No electrician would wire his own home with these connections, you shouldn't either. If you insist on using these connections, do not reuse them. The springs lose strength when the release opening is used to get a wire out - and loses shape (weakens) after a wire has been pressed in.I hope this helps & good luck!
How do you release the wire that attached thru the hole in the back of the switch
Most switches have two openings at each terminal. One is round to accept the stripped wire and the second is square / rectangular. The second opening is to insert a small screw driver and gently press in. This pushes the spring steel out of the way and allows the the wire to be withdrawn. You must do both at the same time however.Some lack the second opening. In order to relase the wire from the switch, you will need to twist the switch back and forth while pulling the switch and wire apart from each other. Ripping the wire out or cutting the wire off will render the switch useless as it will not be able to grip a wire again. Take your time, and of course, shut the power off.Good luck!
6/28/2012 7:02:10 PM •
Lutron...
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Answered
on Jun 28, 2012
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279 views
We have a lutron nova 2003p (1600 watt) switch supplying power to a line of 18 12 volt, 50 watt lamps. switch went out. is this caused by over-amperage draw?
Hi John, I'm an electrician and I think I can help you with this problem.First and foremost, this switch's 2000VA / 1600W electrical rating is based on a incandescent load.Let's do do the math on this one.. 18 x 50 = 900 watts. So, you're under the 1600 watt capacity, but I think this is a bit more involved than this. I'd be willing to bet that you're not dimming a 12 volt circuit - but rather a 120 volt circuit that supplies one or more transformers that step the power down from 120 volts to the the 12 volt bulb voltage. A transformer is an inductive load. A transformer's inductive load is completely different than the incandescent load the dimmer is designed to control. The transformers are rated for 120 volts and will have issues including heat problems if provided less than the rated input voltage to provide a reduced output voltage you want so that you can dim these lights.This switch will not work on the output of the transformer in this situation either because the significant amperage being switched here. Each of these lamps draws a bit over 4 amps as determined by ohm's law: 50W / 12V = 4.16A. The total load at 12 volts is (again, Ohm's law) 18 x 4.16A = 74.88A ! That means the wire would need to be a #4 or #2. This is about the size of the cable on your car's battery (only amperage determines conductor size - voltage determines insulation).A dimmer on this circuit will not work unless the fixtures are changed so that no transformers are used to supply the lamps. This includes fluorescent lamps (compact or otherwise) unless the packaging specifically states that they can be used on a dimmer. You may wish to contact Lutron Hotline at 800-523-9466 for additional help and suggestions. I hope this helps & good luck!
5/1/2012 5:12:40 PM •
Lutron...
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Answered
on May 01, 2012
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222 views
Using 3 way dimmer, lights don't appear to go to full light
Hi Gene,When two 3-way switches are used to control a light - and you wish to install a dimmer, you replace only ONE of the switches. If you replace both switches with dimmers, and one dimmer is set to 50%, the light will only be able to get to 50% bright; regardless even if the other switch is set to 100%. The light can only get as bright as the current lowest dimmer position of either switch. Most modern dimmers are solid state, and should be able to get full power to the lamps. Older dimmers aren't very efficient and work a little differently - but should still do a good job as far as brightness of the lamp. You can run into trouble trying to dim CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) if they are not labeled specifically for use with a dimmer. Even those that are labeled for use with a dimmer have a noticeably short range of dimming when compared to standard tungsten lamps, and tend to have an audible buzzing sound.If this doesn't answer your question, please provide the wattage, type and number of lamps in the fixture. Your dimmer is rated for up to 600 watts, but may be less if it is in a switchbox with other dimmers or you have broken off portions of the heat shield as directed by the instructions.
REPLACEMENT OF PRIOR DIMMER
All ground wires should be connected together. If the metal switch box has no visible ground wires in the cable assembly itself, then there is nothing to connect. It is possible that if the cables consist of an armored or metal jacket that it is providing an earth ground. The clamp that holds the armored cable in the switch box provides the continuity of the ground path in to the box and out again on any other armored cable(s). You can install a short 3/8" #10 x 32 machine screw into one of the drilled and pretapped holes in the box that is designed to provide a way to bond the ground conductor to the box. Screws like the one below are designed for this, but you can use any screw you like that fits.
A green, hex head #10 x 32 ground screw for switch boxes.If the box is a non-metalic type and there is no metal
clamps connecting armored cables or ground wires inside and bonded to the box, then there is no
connection to be made. If the wire on the dimmer is insulated, either cut off the stripped end or
place a wirenut over the end and fold the wire into the rear of the box - out of
the way. If it is bare, carefully fold to the rear of the box and make sure it does not contact any live conductors. There will be no need to access it again unless installing the switch elsewhere, later.
1/18/2012 2:57:15 AM •
Lutron...
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Answered
on Jan 18, 2012
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139 views
How to wire 3 way switch
most switches come with diagrams, if you are replacing one keep track of where the wires wereif you are installing a new wiring circuit it really depends on the number of switches
11/16/2011 3:23:15 AM •
Lutron...
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Answered
on Nov 16, 2011
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263 views
We have the older style
YOU NEED TO REEMPLACE THE DIMMER, SOMETIMES SWICHTS GET DUST IT AND CORROSIVE SPECIALLY IF ITS OLD.
15amp 1000watt dimmer gets extremely
Electricians use the 80% rule.
When watt rating is 1000, we say 800 watts maximum. Same for wire ratings, and circuit breaker ratings, switch ratings, etc. 80% rule is the rule for electricians.
The closer you run a device at full load, the warmer it gets and the more quickly the device fails.
The signal that a dimmer is failing is heat.
I suggest replacing 1000watt dimmer with 1500watt dimmer, or reducing load.
All dimmers get warm, but should not be hot. 1500watt dimmers usually have aluminum fins on the face to dissipate heat. So 1500watt dimmers look different than 1000watt dimmers.
If you reduce load, and 1000watt dimmer still gets hot with reduced load, then dimmer has gone bad.
We have three-way switches in
If you are dimming it, use:
MS-OP600M-WH & MA-R-WH
If you are only planning on switching it, use:
MS-OPS6M-DV-WH & MA-AS-WH
9/12/2011 2:44:57 PM •
Lutron...
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Answered
on Sep 12, 2011
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215 views
Dual switch will operate each light fixture
I'm somewhat confused because the model number you mentioned isn't designed to handle two separate lighting loads. That said...
My best guess is that something happened with the loads that you are controlling. Did you change light bulbs recently or switch to a different type of lamp - because it sounds like you're having a minimum load issue. The dimmer keeps itself powered up by charging its electronic power supply through the light fixture. But I think it only charges through one of them. So if that one output has too little lighting load on it, the dimmer might not get charged up adequately and give you the issues you're experiencing. The fix would be to increase the lighting load.
That's just a guess, if you want it thoroughly diagnosed, I would contact the manufacturer's tech support center at 1-800-523-9466 - they're available 24/7 and it won't cost you anything.
Can I use a 3-way
Umm...
We're having some confusion on the terminology here which is why I don't think anyone's responded so far.
Let's start here:
In the United States, there are three types of wiring circuits: single-pole, 3-way, and 4-way
Internationally, those same three types are instead referred to as: single-pole, 2-way, 3-way
So, when you say that you want to replace a 2-way wall switch, and replace it with a 3-way programmable timer - I think we're talking about the same type of wiring configuration - so yes, it should work.
The only thing you need to look at is that if this is a 2-way/3-way circuit, then chances are that there is another light switch that controls the same fixture, correct? Some programmable timers do not work with standard, 3-way toggle switches in the other location, you may want to investigate what is required at that spot. I would contact the manufacturer of the timer switch you're using for more information.
8/2/2011 5:51:25 PM •
Lutron Claro...
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Answered
on Aug 02, 2011
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173 views
What wires go where i
There's not a lot of detail in this question, but I'll give it a shot. For the AB-600M-, you do not need a neutral connection at all. In fact, this should wire up like any every-day light switch. What's probably confusing you is that there's probably a blue screw on there. If you're using this in a single-pole application, you don't attach anything to the blue-screw. If you're using this in a 3-way application, the blue screw is used as one of the traveller wires to the other location.
I think that's the best I can do with the information given. My suggestion is for you to call the manufacturer's tech support at 1-800-523-9466 - the're available 24/7 and can help you out a lot faster than an on-line forum every would.
8/2/2011 5:43:40 PM •
Lutron...
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Answered
on Aug 02, 2011
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74 views
Try to add a dimmer
Usually this is indicative that you have a 3-way lighting circuit, but only a single-pole dimmer. For most lighting circuits, the red wire and one of the black wires are supposed to be run over to a second light switch. You need dimmer rated as a "3-way" in order for that to work. If you get stuck, I would call the manufacturer's tech support number at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and it will not cost you anything.
We cann't control all of
if your breaker keeps tripping you ether have to many amps running or a wire came loose good luck
7/31/2011 2:11:37 PM •
Lutron...
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Answered
on Jul 31, 2011
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123 views
Does the S2-LFSQH-IV fan control
no it shouldnt it should just wire up to the wires already there you may want to add a little more detail to your question its kinda grey
7/28/2011 2:41:45 AM •
Lutron Fan...
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Answered
on Jul 28, 2011
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155 views
I had an electrician over
I do not know what happened.
Check the circuit breaker.
The electrician is probably asking somebody else right now, because tradespeople want to know everything about their trade to expand skill and make money easier.
Lutron has customer support number for you and the electrician:
1-800-523-9644
Calling Lutron might narrow down what product you have, and isolate problem.
Once exact product is known, this will be helpful for the electrician.
Plus you can re-post a question on fixya, and expert will look up that product and give possible help. This will also help you double-check the electrician.
Between Lutron, the electrician, and fixya, a solution is probably reachable.
3/30/2015 8:30:34 PM •
Lutron...
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Answered
on Mar 30, 2015
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657 views
I will really like a
Since the product is as old as it is, I can't find instruction sheets for it on-line anymore. Your best bet is to call the manufacturer directly. They're at 1-800-523-9466 - its available 24/7 and can help you out than an online forum like this ever could.
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