Lutron Electrical Supplies - Page 9 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

You will have to replace the entire switch. If they are not to old sometimes they will exchange them out for a new one

Possible power supply problem--low voltage from master unit or dead batteries at each switch. Good luck!

There's a lot of stuff here, and you may need to clairfy a few details to get to your exact answer. There are a couple of different products that Lutron makes that have the combination fan & light combo, and you may need some help figuring out which one it is. However, the details of this are simple enough that you should be able to simply call their tech support number and have someone walk you through it. They're at 1-800-523-9466 and they're available 24/7.

I'd try to give you a more thorough answer but trying to walk someone throught he wiring combinations on-line like this tends to add more confusion than necessary.

5-Amps

Simply, no...but it's almost never simple is it?
In household wiring (AC) there is really no positive and negative, they are hot and neutral and ground.
Wire black to black, yes. But the green one is the ground and if you wire this one wrong you've got much trouble.

In the box where the dimmer goes there should be two of each wire, white, black and bare.
Join the two whites together and tuck them into the box.
The bare wires and the green screw all go together. Cut yourself a length of spare bare (ground) wire, marrette one end of this together with the other two bare wires, turn it round the ground screw in the back of the box and tighten it down, then join the other end to the green screw of the dimmer. This is a "pigtail" and it makes things easier in many situations. Tuck this into the box.
Last, join black to black.

Whenever this happens usually we have found it is the actual Dimmer unit itself, that faults, this needs to be replaced to return full function to your light system.

No you will have to replace

Call their tech support center at 1-800-523-9466. First of all, they should be able to send you a replacement. You also may be able to talk them into a different product that doesn't have the same issue. I think the challenge you're having is that its a slide dimmer, and for whatever reason, the slider is just falling down ever-so-gradually over time. They make another product (the AB-600M-WH) which fits in the same opening and works off of push-buttons rather than sliders.

All your wiring looks good. Many times dimmer just have problems and are faulty. You should note that the dimmer can only handle 600 watts. If you have that or more on it, than you have probably fried the dimming mechanism. In either case the dimming mechanism is not working properly and you will have to take it back and get the same dimmer or a different one. Tell the store they sold you a faulty dimmer and you can get a replacement at no cost.

I haven't used this one and I couldn't see anything specific on the Lutron site about how these plates attach, but if there are no visible screws they have to just snap on and snap off. I can't believe they would have any luck selling a product that required special tools to remove the wall plate good luck, Al K

I had the same problem. You just have to push the slider down a bit harder. It will click and will be completely off.

Sounds like it needs to be repgramed, but it may not be in the switch, maybe in the lamp/fan receiver (sounds like the wireless one), if this is the wired version, you may have to check all connections to make sure they didn't come loose.

The dimmer connections should go like this.

Black from dimmer to black Constant Power In Wall
White from dimmer to Neutral (Whites) in wall
Yellow from dimmer to wire out to light (usually black)
Green from dimmer to BARE GROUND WIRE

Remove the two screws holding the cover on. Then the two screws holding the switch into the box. Then there are three wires black and white copper, un insulated. Unscrew the screws that are holding the wire on and replace them in the same place on the new one. If the wires are plugged into the back instead of screws. You will have to cut it and strip it. Or you can stick a tooth pick into a small release hole right beside of the wire. Then pull the wire out.

There are two possible problems. Usually the FA-AD MUST go on the power end of the 3-way system and the FAELV-500M must go on the "switch leg" side of the 3-way system. If you have them reversed then the AD will not work because it does not always have power. The other option is that there may be a small "air gap" switch on the accesorry dimmer that disconnects power but usually that will make neither switch work.

The best I can do is tell you how a 3 way and a 4 way switching circuit works, once you understand that all you have to do is throw in the dimmer (note: you can only have one dimmer in a circuit, the rest of the switches must be simple on and off switches). I did some research on the dimmers you purchased to use, and it claims that the accessory dimmers can be used along with the MIRELV's as you have said but in my experience when you try to do something like that, one dimmer would have to know what the other two are doing, and that is not happening, and unless the current is electronically controlled on the whole circuit by each dimmer, you'll never get all three dimmers to work.. So lets see if we can get it wired properly and get it to work, if not you will have to try using one dimmer and two regular switches and see if it resolves your problem. In every four way circuit there is at least 2 three way switching devices, one at the beginning of the circuit where the power comes in and one at the end of the circuit where the power goes out to the lights. You can have numerous 4 way devices in the middle of the two three way devices. So let start at the first 3 way device, which will have three terminals one it. Every three way switching device has whats called a common terminal, this is where your incoming power attaches. Then you have 2 "traveling" terminals where your traveling wires will connect (called this because your power will travel to or communicate with your four way switch through these wires (note: you cannot mix these wires up or your circuit will not work). Order doesn't matter at the three way, but at the four way you need to keep them straight; there are four terminals on your four way switch designed to pass the current along that you fed it from the three way. The are two types of four way terminals, some times incoming wires go on top or bottom terminals, sometimes on left or right side. Either way if incoming wires are on top and you have red wire on one side and black on the other when power leaves at the bottom you keep the colors on the same side (Note: all these concept apply if your dimmers have pigtail wires to attach the wires to as well). And once you get to you final three way switch you want to keep the traveling wire colors the same as the terminals on the first three way switch. The power will leave this last switch and go out to your lights through the common terminal. If your dimmers happen no to work, remove two devices and replace with two normal switches, just make sure they are three way or four way switches as needed (remember four ways go in the middle of two three ways). Three way switching and four way switching is very confusing, and I know the Lutron company won't try to explain how things work, just take your time with it.

If you are having to use the small air gap switch at the bottom (left to right, or pull out on newer versions) of the rocker to turn the lights on/off then the triac inside is fused and you will need to replace the switch. The triac is the piece that "dims" the lights. Once it is fused, the dimmer bar on the right side won't work, and the main dimmer button will not work either.

Ok the RED is Phase and the Black is Neutral... Green is Earth. you have an IN, Red wire, and an OUT Red wire, the rest just go color to color. So in the socket, one Red wire goes to one Red wire from the dimmer, the other Red wire in the socket, goes to the other Red from the dimmer, then Black to Black, and Green to Green. Be careful do NOT work on it live.

You have to run the 3rd wire all the way to the switch, whether it hits any lights or not, I have seen electricians pull a single wire in to the box with the 14/2 and that would be the jumper. This will work on any lights, and the lights only need the 2 wires, It is just the switch that needs the 3 wires. Good luck.

These are supposed to be auto-reset switches. They do make different switches for different watt lightbulbs and different voltage from the house.
You can check here to see if you have the correct switch for your house:

http://www.lutron.com/techInfo/SpecSheets/Rania%20Spec%20Eng.pdf