Lutron Electrical Supplies - Page 8 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

If I understand correctly, your are replacing a GFCI receptacle with another GFCI receptacle

And your existing GFCI has 3 black and 3 white wires

And there is not a switch involved in the changeover.

I downloaded the manual from Lutron
http://classic.lutron.com/CMS400/techinfopage.aspx?id=22163

Every wiring diagram in manual shows:
Black wires connect to brass-colored screws
White wires connect to silver-colored screws

The brass and silver colored screws are typical of all residential receptacles. The color-code tells the electrician which terminal gets the black and white wires.

Are you having a problem putting 3 wires onto 2 screws?
It is a common problem.
You can buy a short piece of white and black wire at hardware store
Lets work on the black wires as example:
Strip back insulation on short piece of black wire
Hold together two of your black wires and start twisting them together
Now add the short wire to the two black wires you started twisting
Now twist together the two blacks and short black
So three wires are twisted together and you have a short lead that can connect to screw on GFCI
Put a wire nut over the twisted wire
Now you're ready to connect other end of short black wire to brass-colored screw
This reduces the number of wires that connect to screws

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-twist-electric-wire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html

The dimmer is worn out

Wall switches and dimmers don't come apart for repairs >> nobody sells parts >> and the wiring didn't suddenly go bad.

I don't think I understand exactly what you mean by "unlock."

But...

If the light level is locked onto one preset light level (always turns onto the same light level), hit the button in the middle 4-times... the LEDs should blink, and then the lights will turn on to their previous light level.

If you want the button to "unlock" or come out, take off the faceplate, and there should be a little slide switch to the left of the button that, when pulled to the side, should allow you to pull the button out. Can't for the life of me understand why you would want to do that, but there it is?

Is that what you were referring to?

I answer questions for free.
I know electric wiring and can help.
But you need a better explanation.
What are you doing?
Did you replace something.
What device did you put in?
Is this a 3-way device at one end of a hall?
And I'm a little unclear about " all house lights on light the hall but all off will not turn off the lights'
If you add a comment I will answer

If your wallplate is hot, that is a sign of trouble, and possible electrical fire. That dimmer is not made for the load, or it is going bad.

Turn off the dimmer immediately. Do not use the dimmer at all. Replace with a wall switch until you have the correct dimmer.

Each dimmer is rated for Watts. Ordinary electrical switch is rated by amps. Ordinary 15 Amp electrical switch can handle up to 1400 Watts. This means 14 - 100 watt bulbs.

Dimmers are usually not rated for 1400 Watts. They have 500-600 Watt rating. Look at the side of your dimmer for Wattage information that is usually printed on dimmer.

Heavier-duty dimmers cost more and can carry more wattage. Some dimmers carry up to 1800 watts. These kinds of dimmers have aluminum heat sink visible right on the face of dimmer.

In any case, your dimmer is an electrical fire hazard and should be replaced. Add up total wattage of your lights, and read new dimmer package when buying.

Up-vote if this information is helpful. Thanks for the feedback.

Sadly, yes, it just sounds like the switch got stuck. You should be able to yank that knob off and try to manually unlatch it with something thin and long (like a pencil) - just, do me a favor, and make sure whatever you use isn't conductive, there shouldn't be any exposed electrically, but just be safe about it.

If that doesn't work, call their tech support center at 1-800-523-9466 - they will most likely replace it for you.

I don't think that model is for a 3 way switch . It is for fan speed control only. Green is ground, and one incoming and one outgoing "hot" wire. You will need a different part number such as:
AYFSQ-F
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/0301277A.pdf

If this is a new dimmer, please check the wiring.
If you are having a problem with wiring, re-post your question with exact model number

If your dimmer is old, the electronics inside dimmer have probably gone bad

When buying a new dimmer, watch for two things
1) is dimmer rated for enough wattage?
2) Is dimmer 2-way or 3-way

Need to know what is your issue. If you are asking how to hook it up it is a simple task. First you need to confirm if it is a single pole or 3-way switch. Does more than one switch control the light? If not is a single pole switch. I would first turn off the power to the switch you are replacing. Check this by turning on the light and turn off breakers one at a time until the light goes out. Take out old switch and connect new one. tkae one wire off old switch and connect it to one wire on dimmer. Doesn't matter which one. Take the second wire off the switch and connect it to the remaining wire of the dimmer. If you have a ground wire (bare copper wire) connected to the old switch and you have a bare or green wire on the dimmer, connect those together as well. Mount dimmer in box, re-energize circuit and you should be good to go. I am curious why you are using a 1000 watt switch (unless you are controlling more than 600 watts of lights)(9 65 watt bulbs = 585 watts). Let me know how you make out. Hope that helps.

This, unfortuantely, is one of the usual challenges associated with dimming. The buzzing usually gets worse at around the 1/2 light level point. I don't think the issue has to do with whether the lamp is halogen, but rather how the lamp is physically constructed - and that differs from manufacturer to manufacturer. Long story short, I would take note of the lamps you purchased, and when replaced, I would opt for a different manufacturer.

I answer questions for free.
I specialize in timers and electrical devices.

There are not replacement parts for electrical wall devices.
You can pull out the device and see if there is a loose wire that caused the pop.
But today's dimmers are electronic, and if there is a pop, I bet the circuit board inside the dimmer has been ruined.

If you need more help, add a comment and I will respond.

they are only around 40 dollars brand new. locate the breaker cut power and replace. Loose and not working can some time be tightened but this is a touch dimmer so it sounds to have gone bad.

Without more detail, there's not much info to be provided here. Their tech support, however, is available 24/7 to give you a pretty quick response. I advise getting the model number of whatever "panel" you're referring to - and if you can't, at least be prepared to describe what the thing looks like. Their number is 1-800-523-9466

The easiest answer would be to wire them in the exact same way as they wired before with the prevoius receptacle. However, as I am assuming that is no longer a possibility...

If this is a normal receptacle that does NOT work off of a wall-switch, then I suspect that one of those black wires is the power feed, one of those white wires is the neutral from the breaker, and the other two sets of wire are branch circuits to the other receptacle. If that's the case, connect all three black wires to the receptacles 'hot' screw (probably brass or copper), and connect all three white wires to the receptacle's 'neutral' screw (probably galvanized, silver color).

If the receptacle used to power off of a switch, honestly, a written descipriton isn't going to do it justice. You'll need to understand the role of each three sets of wire before you can wire properly. If that's the case, say so, and I can attempt to walk you through it.

Hi,
The touch control burned up... probably a power surge... google a replacement touch control... they are not that hard to replace..

heatman101

The dimmer should have nothing to do with the tripped breaker... Just disconnect the dimmer as a test. The dimmers are normally in series with the hot side of the line and if they short the controlled lights will remain on, if they open, then the lights will not come on at all. If the machine had somehow been plugged into the lights, then that probably blew the dimmer.

The floor cleaner MAY have overloaded the wiring and the breaker MAY not have protected the wiring and there is melted insulation and a short someplace.

If you can't find the smoking gun, get an electrician to evaluate the problem for your own safety.

Home Depot only carries a handful of items, but the parts are available elsewhere. Your easiest path is probably to just call Lutron's tech support at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and can probably just send you some.

Lutron rocker switch also called a Decora style

It's quite probable these units have gone faulty, due to the "Outage" see my previous post below.. You will need to replace these units, to restore functions. Please, have a read below, it may save you many $$ We have all had them, Power Outages, inconvenient, and also very deadly, well to Electronic equipment anyway. You see when any Circuit, is Made or Broken, at the instant of contact, when reconnecting, the current draw is considerable, also, after the connection has been made, and the "Load" being connected, and the Current draw is large, all sorts of transients, Spikes, Surges, Oscillations, is reflected, up and down the entire network. Now along with this, MOST people do NOT completely remove, the unit from the mains, by withdrawing the plug. nor, probably, even turn it off. This is wrong, ALL/ANY electronic equipment, that is connected to that Grid, will also encounter a phenomenon know as "Inrush Current" Now, this Inrush Current, Can and Does cause a great deal of damage to electronic equipment, the, instant reconnection, without going through an ON/OFF switch, and Power Conditioning Circuitry, well, the initial Current draw for that instant, is incredibly, high, and with nothing between, the current surges in, stressing everything, in the Power Supply, and more. Now along with that, you also have Transients, Spikes, Surges, Ringing, Oscillations, caused by the reconnecting of the Circuits. Joining of Cables, or Contacts. When the Power Goes OFF, you should NEVER leave anything plugged in after a Power outage, you need to withdraw each and every plug, from ALL Electronic equipment, note here, purely resistive, and relay type equipment is usually immune, it must be removed, and it shouldn't be reconnected, until about 5 minutes, AFTER the Power has been reconnected. This is to Avoid, all of the bad things that are caused by the reconnection back onto the Grid. If you do this, you can be assured of you Electronic items, lasting at least as long as they should, and not suffer premature deaths.

Unfortuantely, when something like that happens, its usually because a piece of plastic in the design broke, and ends up not being something that can easily be fixed in the unit itself. Your best shot is to give their tech support center a call at 1-800-523-9466. They will most likely replace it and you can give them a call 24/7.