Lutron Electrical Supplies - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Hi, I am an electrician and can help you with this problem.Most switches (and plugs for that matter) that provide an option for terminating wires by inserting them in holes instead of using screws, also provide a means of releasing the wire. The device on the right in the image below shows openings to do just that:By pressing a small / thin screwdriver tip, nail, etc.in the release opening(s) adjacent to the wire(s) - you will relieve the spring tension that holds the wire in place, and can easily pull the wire out. Not all devices provide a way to release a wire however. These devices will require either cutting the wire close to the device or a "pulling away" while "twisting back and forth" motion of the device to get the wire out. The conductor will likely be scored as a result.Attempting to release the wire from a device should only be done with power off, as inserting a tool into the holes will place it in direct contact with energized parts.Lastly, some words of caution. You should reconsider using this method to terminate wires on devices. A screw terminal provides a much better electrical and mechanical connection. The comparatively small contact area provided by the internal spring can quickly heat up under a load. Once heated, the spring metal loses strength and the connection worsens. Eventually it fails - hopefully before the heat causes a fire. No electrician would wire his own home with these connections, you shouldn't either. If you insist on using these connections, do not reuse them. The springs lose strength when the release opening is used to get a wire out - and loses shape (weakens) after a wire has been pressed in.I hope this helps & good luck!

If your dimmer smells burned, it probably is.As general rule, there are no repair parts for in-wall electrical devices since they are contained inside sealed plastic shell to prevent fires.The burning smell was high heat and melting that would have caused a fire if in-wall electrical devices were sold without safeguards.Replace dimmer.Be sure to check watt rating on side of old and new dimmers to match correct load rating.Take out of son's allowance, and make the future electrical genius help read small print on instructions and install new device.Turn power off to replace device.Use non-contact voltage tester to check that power is off.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.htmlhttp://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Most switches have two openings at each terminal. One is round to accept the stripped wire and the second is square / rectangular. The second opening is to insert a small screw driver and gently press in. This pushes the spring steel out of the way and allows the the wire to be withdrawn. You must do both at the same time however.Some lack the second opening. In order to relase the wire from the switch, you will need to twist the switch back and forth while pulling the switch and wire apart from each other. Ripping the wire out or cutting the wire off will render the switch useless as it will not be able to grip a wire again. Take your time, and of course, shut the power off.Good luck!

Hi John, I'm an electrician and I think I can help you with this problem.First and foremost, this switch's 2000VA / 1600W electrical rating is based on a incandescent load.Let's do do the math on this one.. 18 x 50 = 900 watts. So, you're under the 1600 watt capacity, but I think this is a bit more involved than this. I'd be willing to bet that you're not dimming a 12 volt circuit - but rather a 120 volt circuit that supplies one or more transformers that step the power down from 120 volts to the the 12 volt bulb voltage. A transformer is an inductive load. A transformer's inductive load is completely different than the incandescent load the dimmer is designed to control. The transformers are rated for 120 volts and will have issues including heat problems if provided less than the rated input voltage to provide a reduced output voltage you want so that you can dim these lights.This switch will not work on the output of the transformer in this situation either because the significant amperage being switched here. Each of these lamps draws a bit over 4 amps as determined by ohm's law: 50W / 12V = 4.16A. The total load at 12 volts is (again, Ohm's law) 18 x 4.16A = 74.88A ! That means the wire would need to be a #4 or #2. This is about the size of the cable on your car's battery (only amperage determines conductor size - voltage determines insulation).A dimmer on this circuit will not work unless the fixtures are changed so that no transformers are used to supply the lamps. This includes fluorescent lamps (compact or otherwise) unless the packaging specifically states that they can be used on a dimmer. You may wish to contact Lutron Hotline at 800-523-9466 for additional help and suggestions. I hope this helps & good luck!

Hi Gene,When two 3-way switches are used to control a light - and you wish to install a dimmer, you replace only ONE of the switches. If you replace both switches with dimmers, and one dimmer is set to 50%, the light will only be able to get to 50% bright; regardless even if the other switch is set to 100%. The light can only get as bright as the current lowest dimmer position of either switch. Most modern dimmers are solid state, and should be able to get full power to the lamps. Older dimmers aren't very efficient and work a little differently - but should still do a good job as far as brightness of the lamp. You can run into trouble trying to dim CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) if they are not labeled specifically for use with a dimmer. Even those that are labeled for use with a dimmer have a noticeably short range of dimming when compared to standard tungsten lamps, and tend to have an audible buzzing sound.If this doesn't answer your question, please provide the wattage, type and number of lamps in the fixture. Your dimmer is rated for up to 600 watts, but may be less if it is in a switchbox with other dimmers or you have broken off portions of the heat shield as directed by the instructions.

All ground wires should be connected together. If the metal switch box has no visible ground wires in the cable assembly itself, then there is nothing to connect. It is possible that if the cables consist of an armored or metal jacket that it is providing an earth ground. The clamp that holds the armored cable in the switch box provides the continuity of the ground path in to the box and out again on any other armored cable(s). You can install a short 3/8" #10 x 32 machine screw into one of the drilled and pretapped holes in the box that is designed to provide a way to bond the ground conductor to the box. Screws like the one below are designed for this, but you can use any screw you like that fits.A green, hex head #10 x 32 ground screw for switch boxes.If the box is a non-metalic type and there is no metal clamps connecting armored cables or ground wires inside and bonded to the box, then there is no connection to be made. If the wire on the dimmer is insulated, either cut off the stripped end or place a wirenut over the end and fold the wire into the rear of the box - out of the way. If it is bare, carefully fold to the rear of the box and make sure it does not contact any live conductors. There will be no need to access it again unless installing the switch elsewhere, later.

most switches come with diagrams, if you are replacing one keep track of where the wires wereif you are installing a new wiring circuit it really depends on the number of switches

YOU NEED TO REEMPLACE THE DIMMER, SOMETIMES SWICHTS GET DUST IT AND CORROSIVE SPECIALLY IF ITS OLD.

Electricians use the 80% rule.
When watt rating is 1000, we say 800 watts maximum. Same for wire ratings, and circuit breaker ratings, switch ratings, etc. 80% rule is the rule for electricians.
The closer you run a device at full load, the warmer it gets and the more quickly the device fails.
The signal that a dimmer is failing is heat.
I suggest replacing 1000watt dimmer with 1500watt dimmer, or reducing load.
All dimmers get warm, but should not be hot. 1500watt dimmers usually have aluminum fins on the face to dissipate heat. So 1500watt dimmers look different than 1000watt dimmers.
If you reduce load, and 1000watt dimmer still gets hot with reduced load, then dimmer has gone bad.