Lutron Electrical Supplies - Page 2 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

hi find out the what voltage value of the led ( are they ac. or dc. ) and upon those findings you buy the dimmer switch for dimming

Let's start at the beginning please. You have a source cable fed into an overhead outlet box or to a switch outlet box on the wall? This is critical because it tells me what kind of arrangement you actually have. If the source is in the ceiling, then you are using switch loops and the wiring gets tricky because you have to "re-task" the Neutral (White) wire (Assuming you are here in the U.S.A.) that goes to the switch because it will become the feed to the wall switch. However, is the feed is at the switch, then it is much simpler. Please let me know what you have in the form of wiring. Also as an FYI, if you are using special switches, you may have to have equipment grounding conductor present at the switch. The electrical code no longer allows the use of a Neutral (White) conductor as a grounding conductor.

sounds like an internal part has broke and you will have to replace the whole switch. anytime you have trouble with something like that it is always best just to go ahead and change it. it doesn't if its a day old or 10yrs old. not worth the chance of burning yourself down. be glad to help you further if you need it txt me at 865-888-1220

Sounds like the transformer in your track light. In the box where the green light is, the voltage is converted by a small transformer from 120v to 12v for the halogen lights. With the breaker off, try jumping out the dimmer going to the track light (disconnect the dimmer and connect the two loose wires from box together). With the breaker back on, if you have 120v power on the wires (black/white) going into the track light transformer (measured at the track light), and the green light won't come on, I'd say it's the track light transformer. You may have to replace the whole track if you can't get the transformer as a part.

You could do that but it would not be up to the electrical code requirements. Take the old one out and remove the wire nuts and put the new one in. There should be a ground wire stuffed in the box somewhere. Unless the house is really old. You connect the ground wire to the bare ones in the box.

To the two black wires in the box

Led? Normal.

If it's turning on led s, that's nirnal

Hmmm a lot of rope lights are just mini xmass tree lights inside a plastic tube. If one of the bulbs burns out for that section the it takes the whole section out. Sounds like it's time for a new led rope light.

Often led s hesitate even with single pole switch. It's probably not the dimmer. Led s get powered from a transformer inside the fixture and it just takes a second for them to get going. I've found its not consistant. The same two recessed lights have different start up times.

The power supply for the led's may not be dimmable. Not sure if this dimmer is for led but I assume that's why you bought it.

If there is only a white and black and ground coming into the box from the fixture then that white is probably really a black. The black is hot, meaning it has power. The white takes the power back to the light. If you can open the light fixture box and see what wires power the light.

Go here:

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/033100b.pdf

it shouldn't get hot like that with only 660 watts. are you sure that is total wattage??? if so there is a problem somewhere in the circuit

On single-phase wiring systems, the neutral and ground wires are connected to the same bus bar in the circuit breaker panel (thus they are the same potential). So it should work that way, although it may not be up to local electrical codes.