Lite On Heating & Cooling - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

usually the small opening on the burner that 'points' to the pilot light will get clogged with cleaning soap or spills. Look carefully (the burner may be very easy to remove for inspection. There should be a small hole on the side pointing toward the location of the pilot light. It will be lower down than the main burner openings. Clean it out with a wooden toothpick.

depending on how old the unit is it may have a thermopile "generator". the thermopile will have 2 wire leads that usualy attach to the main gas valve by 2 screws. set your multimeter to mvdc and tke a reading usualy anything over 350 mvdc will be able to energize the gas valve. any bad connections or open limits or safty switches will not alow the main gas valve to energize. hope this helps.

shut off the gas at the gas **** and gas valve. the pilot tube is held in place by a 7/16 compression nut. remove it then remove the 2 screws for the thermopile "generator". follow the pilot tube and the pilot assembly should be held in by one or two screws. usually you don't have to remove the main burners. hopefully this helps

tHE PUMP MUST BE RUNNING. 'TIS IT?

http://www.csiworldwide.com/Parts/Laars%20Parts/Laars%20Lite%20LLG%20Parts.htm
Try here.

I just had the exact problem. Went to a plumbing supply house and got a 1/4"NPT pipe tap for about $10 and a 1/4" brass pipe plug. Put some oil on the tap and very carefully clear the threads by threading it into the hole. Make sure it is straight and engaged with the threads. Once started run it in by hand until it stops and then get a small wrench and turn it about a half turn and then back a quarter turn for a couple of full turns and then remove. Inset the new brass plug

This did the trick for me, good luck.

whoo told you it does the trick?The only trick I know that works on a thermocoupler is replacing it with a good one. It is the probe that sits in the pilot flame. If you take it out to scrub it, you may as well put a new one in its place . They are relatively inexpensive.

No cleaning. Ilot has to keep thermocoupler hot or no gas.

Are you sure it isn't just condensation? A leak will not go away. If condensation, nothing to worry about. It will go away.

BAd flame sensor. It is not sending communication to the gas valve to tell it to light due to the fact that it is not sensing flame. Your model also might be called a pilot generator and not a pilot sensor

Could also be a pin hole in the small copper tube that runs from the top of the heater to the thermostat. This has happened to me a few times. Small hole, but lots of water comes out. Get some 3/8" copper tubing and 2 compression fittings. It is easy to replace this tube. The only pain is that you have to take off the top of the heater to reach the end of the tube.

If you have not found the problem yeat, it IS the thermocoupling( or pilot generator(same thing))
You may test by placing a multimeter on the red and white leads coming to the gas valve. you do not need to disconnect the leads first but you can

One possible problem to that is a bad pilot generator, not a real common problem but often happens. To test the pilot generator, unhook the to wires that comes from the pilot assembly and hook to the gas valve. Wedge a screwdriver or something in the knob that you push down when regularly lighting the pilot so that gas will continue to flow to the pilot, if you dont hold it down it wont stay lit. Use a multimeter set on DC voltage and put prongs on the ends of the wires. If it is above 600 then it is good, a little bit below will still allow it to work, the pilot only needs like 100 millivolts to stay lit. If it is somewhere down around 500 or lower, then it should be replaced. Another cause, if the pilot generator is not bad, is that a switch in the circuit could be acting up and drawing all of the millivolts from the source before it gets back to the gas valve, in turn the pilot is not supplied with proper millivoltage to stay lit. This usually is the case if you use your heater and it works for a while but then shuts off, and the pilot goes off with it. You can test each switch without removing wires. Each switch should use 5-10 millivolts max. Put one prong on a ground, or just stick it in the ground, the guys i work with dont believe me that it works. And test one side of the switch with the other prong and then the other side to measure the millivolt drop across the switch. If all switches are good. Bad news, probably a gas valve issue. Although take the time to inspect the connections made at the gas valve and all other switches for that matter. A little rust, a little corrosion, can eat up millivoltage very quickly and this can be fix by using some sand paper or emory cloth to clean the terminals. Also check for loose connections, if you can wiggle the wire where it is connecting to the terminal, take it off and crimp it down a little tighter with some channel locks or something. Millivolt heaters are a pain in the but, that is why everybody makes and sells electronic ignition ones now.

I had this same problem once. When water is left in the heater for the winter it will expand and crack the part that the water flows into. I had to purchase this new part and this solved the problem.

Now I take the bolts out of that part and blow the water out with an air tank

Good Luck

Bill

Take the top part of the heater off, this will expose the manifold and heating coils. If you did not perform a good winterizing job the manifold cracked due to freezing water expanding.

This happened to me, I took the manifold off which is cast iron and took it to a welding shop, for $65 US dollars it was repaired, I reinstall everything and I'm up en running.

You can do this yourself if you have some basic tools.

All in all I spent $163 dollars getting my heater going. Its better then paying $1400 - $1500 for a new one.

At the end of the season I will be doing a better job getting the water out of the heater before first freeze.

Best of luck!

I hope your pool heater is still running! Anyway you mentioned that when you reinstall the heater door the heater turns off.

This is my personal experience with this; there is no switch on the door, keep that in mind; so ask yourself: when you remove the door are there any wires touching or resting against the inside door panel?

if so its possible that one of the wires in a connector is broken, the crazy thing is you cant see the broken wire that is causing your intermittent issue.

What I did was cut off all of the wire connectors and installed new ones, now the heater is running like a champ.

Good luck

do you have flow through the heater, pump for pool running , is your aquastat[ water temp control] set correctly

could very well be thermocouple or fan switch if you have a meter that reads millivolts you can check thermocouple output or fan switch for continuity if you jump out fan switch be careful cause you can go boom if you are not familiar with this type of equipement you should call someone who is

yes it could. what kind of heater is it?

There is a small probe that is heated by the pilot flame. This is called a thermocouple & keeps the gas valve open by generating a small electric current. Most likely the pilot flame is too small, or not heating the thermocouple properly. Either turn the pilot up a bit, or gently bent the thermocouple bracket to put it in the flame a bit more. Do not try to bend the thermocouple itself. If this does not help, a new thermocouple may be needed.