Lisle Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

The following link describes checking compression on your vehicle. The compression is a guide to troubleshooting problems. There are several variables such as lubricant, temperature, valve condition, even speed of rotation while testing. How to Test Engine Compression Jeep 4 0L

If someone was going on the TBI #'s (15-20psi) instead of the MPFI #'s (35-40 regular running and upwards of 60 under full pressure) that may be where the error lies. Wonder what the readings obtained were?

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remove the pitman arm from the steering gear look in the big hole that goes on the steering gear shaft, there are two sizes to the groves on the pitman arm, count the number of the wide groves these wide groves are the splines you need to count, you will have 3 or 4 gaps in the spline pattern this is your answer. best of luck to you.

Go to the dealer Or MAybe Look Under the Hood For Diagram it will be ther

Its on the exhaust pipe a couple of inches past where the clamp is that connects the pipe to the engine.

Instructions are included with the tool, so says the catalog.I have uploaded some pix of tool in use. You might also try to borrow one from AutoZone or Advance and copy the instructions. Last resort try an email to Lisle customer service and they may attach on to an email.

Remove the cotter pin and nut from the pitman arm ball stud. usually it is recommended to use a remover but using a hammer one end pops out the other end you will have to remove the steering gear mounting bolts to remove the pitman arm and yes you will have to probably take the gear box out to do this. good luck!

1999 chevy Camaro 5.7 Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Installation Pass-To Ensure The Balancer Is Completely Installed) 240 ft.lb Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (First Pass-Install A New Bolt After The Installation Pass And Tighten As Described In First And Final Passes) 37 ft.lb Crankshaft Balancer Bolt (Final Pass) 140 deg

More information would be great as in how many hours are on tractor/How far have you gotten with the task/And do you have new parts already ?..So I will instruct you as if it hasn't been touched yet without removal kit..You really only need the fork that fits the tightest,safety glasses,PB Blast penetrating spray(NOT WD-40make sure it's brakes are locked with tractor in gear..block wheels for safety..Strong wire brush,professional shop torch with rosebud heating tip..correct new rod ends..(IF A LOT OF RUST IS PRESENT AT THE ROD OR ANY SLIGHT BEND AND OR DENTS YOU WILL SAVE HOURS OF LABOR JUST BUYING THE COMPLETE ROD WITH BOTH TIE ROD ENDS...IT DOESNT COST THAT MUCH MORE AND YOU WILL BE GLAD YOU DID IF TROUBLE LIES AHEAD...)..Clean all dirt/contamination from lug nuts.Break lug nuts loose at both sides before raising front if you have no air guns but don't remove lug nuts until it is off ground.raise complete front of tractor..get industrial strength jack stands..put metal plates or very strong oak boards under jack stands if you work on ground or any soft questionable area that could sink or cause bodily harm or tractor damage...Place stands next to each front tire at axle however be sure and give plenty of work room at tie rod end area..possibly 1ft.inward from tires..lower front onto exact center of stands,remove lug nuts and put them in a container to not lose them..clean each tie rod end to a shine..use flashlight and count the rod end threads at each side..Write it on a clean piece of paper..left side and right side...(left is always driver side right is passenger).threads are hard to count sometimes so be sure all are clean and visible..only count threads showing from center rod end to tie rod ball end..install the new ends with exact number of threads showing as the old ones removed to help insure proper alignment..remove castle nut cotter pins and castle nuts.spray with lube before removal...remove castle nuts..and rod end clamps..completely saturate each end with PB blast..let it set..spray again before bed time and let it sit overnight......I am unsure of how much I can write but It has to be in detail...I will continue tomorrow on another solution page".......I hope you will view all I am writing..I. Am a level 4 certified heavy equip.tech. And have repaired too many too list....I love to help those in need"................Metalpoet.......

Usually under the car unibody frame drivers side, one side of the filter has a wrench fitting to a flared pipe feed the other side uses a built in quick release you squeeze 2 plastic tabs to pop off the line, it may have a metal band bracket also to keep it attached safely, no lit cigarettes here, there will be residual gas that will need to be contained properly when lines are released.

remove carter key unscrew nut nock loose with a tie rod fork loosen the nuts/bolt on the adjustment assemble unscrew the tie rod from adjustment assemble reverse the to replace, get the car/truck alignment checked after replacement

Spark Plug Gap is .032 inch. Many have started using .035 as it is easier to set using most newer tools. Point Gap is .016 inch. You may also set point gap by using a dwell meter if you have one. That setting would be 32 degrees.

Look around engine. Sometimes on hood underneath or on frame by radiator. It will tell you what oil to use. Typical 4 cylinders are 4-5 quarts, same as 6 cylinders. I only had one 6 cylinder take 6 quarts in my life. Put in 4-check dipstick, see if it's at the full line. If not-add one more quart. I had a 2000 Isuzu blow it's engine at 52,000 miles. Rebuilt it twice! Make sure to check oil in these vehicles frequently. I was on vacation.... wasn't a good time. Good Luck!! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/shannon_b38635e8878032de

if you are using correct bolts and torque and they are working loose clean bolts and threats in balancer use a light hold thread lock. you get it at a parts store. that should hold it in place

It takes a special heavy duty puller to remove said pitman arm. Find someone that has one and the removal and replacement is evident. Just remove the pitman arm nuts, the pitman arm, and replace it.

Here you go: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/signs-of-a-clogged-fuel-filter.html Tips & tricks on location and replacing the fuel filter on your 2001 Oldsmobile Alero: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Where_is_the_fuel_filter_located_and_how_do_you_replace_it_on_a_2001_Oldsmobile_Alero

All filters are under the engine. I suggest you look at what an oil filter looks like and get under the car. You can't miss it. Normally, (I say this with hesitation) are under the engine towards the front of grill or on the passenger side. (normally) They can be any color to white, orange, depending on brand that was installed last. But it will look just like the one you purchased to replace it. You also didn't give the year which may have been more helpful. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/shannon_b38635e8878032de

its directly under the drivers seat underneath the engine cover. you have to jack it up remove the bottom cover to get to it. http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=32689 thats a link with pictures, hope that helps.

Sounds like the tensioner isn't working. It's easily replaced, but you need a special tool to re install the belt once you have changed tha part