Lexus Vehicle Parts & Accessories - Page 2 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Generally you need a scan tool to monitor the motors to see if they function.Lexus has like 5 fuse blocks and a fuse for every single component. I suggest starting in the fuses to make sure they are all good, especially the two blocks directly under the dashboard.Good luck

2010 Lexus ES350: Normal cold air from passenger vents but 18 degrees warmer on drivers side. No DTCs and visually verified air mixer servo working normally. Originally when I checked gauge pressures, it was 210 on the high side and about 25 on the low side at idle. So I dismissed the issue being low refrigerant. I checked the system out with my scan tool and couldn't find the issue. I thought the heater core with hot water running through it could be the cause but after blocking one of the heater hoses, I still had the issue. Finally, I rechecked the pressures and the low side was at 20. I added almost 10 oz of refrigerant and at 102 degrees ambient temperature, the pressures are at 240 high and 23 low. Got inside the car and both drivers and passenger vents have 55 degree temps coming out.

This indicates that a part of the EVAP control system is no longer functioning correctly. The EVAP system consists of many parts, including (but not limited to) the gas cap, fuel lines, carbon canister, purge valve, and other hoses. The (EVAP) emission control system prevents the escape of fuel vapors from a vehicle's fuel system. Fuel vapors are routed by hoses to a charcoal canister for storage. Later, when the engine is running a purge control valve opens allowing intake vacuum to siphon the fuel vapors into the engine. EVAP emission canister purge is controlled by a valve which allows engine vacuum to pull stored fuel vapors from fuel tank into the engine to be burned, rather than be vented to atmosphere. A vacuum switch is used to detect when flow exists. If the PCM commands purge and sees that the switch is closed (indicating no detected purge flow) P0441 is set.

No idea without a look first but the vent is opened by a vacumn controlled motor and the diaphgram could be finished like a hole in it so it doesnt work .consult a local mechanic to check it out for you

Sound as if one of the cylinders has an internal leak through the seals. These should be re-phasing cylinders which when both sides don't lift to max height at same time you continue to hold your handle in cab and it will continue to provide fluid to the cylinder that is lagging. Which in turn will get it back in phase with the other side. I would try this first and then if that don't work I would look into a seal kit for the cylinder which you can get from your local dealer. This is an easy fix if you have general knowledge about mechanics.

usually you can just remove the Bezel around it, but you may want to try taking out the glove compartment and getting to it from the back

Take back to Dealer,you have a warranty.

Whew. Doing electrical blind is a tough one. It can be several things. So, by process of elimination, we can find the problem. 1st off, the fuse probably blew, so replace it, then lets runs down the line. Remove inner door panel on passenger door Take your time finding all the fasteners before you pull hard and damage inner door trim panel. They have a way of cleverly hiding the screws and clips. Unplug window motor. Caution some inner door metal is sharp. Then with a continuity tester, check if you have power INTO each switch (key on) if you do, check if you have power going OUT when you activate switch, if not bad switch. Check fuse again that it's good. Next, assuming switch has power coming in and going out when activated, using same tester, check plug by window motor. Should have power to one of the wires when window switch is pushed (one wire for up, another wire for down) if not, a wire may be pinched somewhere, check door opening and inside door. If yes power at plug in when pushing switch, the window regulator (track and gearbox might be jammed or worn out) OR the motor went south(bad) causing fuse to blow. Make sure to test both switches. If new parts are out of budget, used parts work fine. Motor, regulator, or switches. More then likely the motor went out. Good luck. Oh yea, test your tester on the battery. Nothings worse than doing all that work only to find out your tester was bad from the start and gotta do it all over again. lol

Take to dealer,warranty will cover.

Check the connector see if the pins are corroded if so clean the and use dielectric grease on it

The emergency brake line or cable is holding u up it should pivot the same as the driver side

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-A-C-Heater-Blower-Motor-Resistor/1995-Lexus-LS400/_/N-j1jphZ91tag?itemIdentifier=79869_0_0_If the blower doesn't come on when you turn a.c. and heater on,it could be your blower motor resister is bad.It's next to the blower.click on link to view.

possible freezing up of either condenser or evap coil have freon level checked as well a expansion valve replaced

catalytic converter

HeyTyrone,we need your vehicles info.,year ,make,model and engine size.What does seafoam do?

Could be your brake pads are worn down to wear it's scrapping the sensor to let you know the pads are due for a change,if you wait to late,the petal on the pads will tear up your disc,here's a link on how to replace and the brake pads you will need.Also you will need to remove some of the brake fluid in reservoir cause when you put new pads on,fluid will go back into reservoir.

Sounds like a belt, and possibly the one on the power steering pump which may be the sepentine belt. Could be caused by power steering pump pulley resistance or the belt tensioner bearing. Try a visual check with motor running. Be careful of moving parts!

If in fact it does take Freon, it can be an expensive recharge because this nation requires an ASE Certification to even tough Freon. Yes, that is federal law in all 50 states. You can find out by finding an auto manual on your car to determine whether it takes 134A Refridgerant or Freon. Good luck...:)

Make sure you used premium fuel 92% octane, if fuel is not hot enough the intake can foul up. If you were fine when you went to fill up it is most likely the fuel is a problem. Also make sure your gas cap is on tight when you here the click you know it's tight.

most vibration in front end is caused by either axle wear or bearing wear tie rods only serve for turning and steering also check front brakes for uneven wear