Land Rover Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

That goes behind the plastic inlet manifold. If you hold it on the side to where it goes and bring it to the level of the manifold will give you the fitting position.

The problem is on your master and clutch slave cylinders. You said were dry and put clutch fluid. Wont do the proper job for clutch work as the inside rubber seals are not strong enough to make the pressure needed to release the clutch.

Check for the the glow plugs( preheating plugs )

Tis is the K18 engine same as K16. It is the twin camshaft petrol engine where the engine is a fully aluminium and very sensitive to temperature.surely the problem you have is the compression gasket. Now you must be very carefull on trying to fix it. You need a good machinery job to check very well the cylinder head and also the cylinder block because the piston liners are replaceable and depends to the overheating removed from the proper position fitted. If everything is correct and by skimming the cylinder head problem will get solved, must buy the new three leaf metal gasket kit and all new cylinder head bolts.

check and test bulb

A stuck thermostat is the likely cause of that. If you remove the radiator cap and start the engine you should see water movement.

One

Explain what a DEQ machine is and somebody may get back to your question.

i would try asking your local auto parts store

Power windows and seats usually have circuit breakers not fuses.....although breakers are not fail proof

id suspect broken wires between door and body

Have the vehicle scanned for trouble code and go from there since it can be a number of reasons for your problem

Get it on a high end scan tool and look at the live data. That will tell you what caused it. Most like a bad connection, but it could be anywhere.

Model, year and mileage may help you get an answer.

The vss is located on the left side of the transfer box

My 2002 Land Rover Freelander V6 thermostat crapped out as well and I decided to replace it myself. The plenum is deceptive, but after 3 hours of looking and trying I finally got it off. Of course there are many hoses and electrical connections that need to be removed, but that's the easy part because you can see them all. The bolts that hold on the plenum are what your worried about and I will now tell you where they are. Read this and you should take about 30min to remove the plenum. There are a total of 6 bolts to be removed that secure the intake plenum to the intake manifolds. First remove the 4, 10mm large and obvious bolts at the top of the plenum. Now here is the tricky part, there are 2 bolts that are at the back of the plenum near the fire wall. As you are looking at the intake plenum from the front of the car, they are on the back side of the plenum near the fire wall on the passenger and driver side of the intake plenum. Both bolts your looking for are 8mm bolts. If you remove a 10mm bolt, your removing the bolts that secure the rear spark plug coils. The driver side rear intake plenum 8mm bolt is secured to the plenum itself. Fell with your hand about the back of the plenum on the right side for a lone bolt that is in the plenum with a metal tab that goes down to the back of the rear cylinder head. Remove the bolt that is attached to the intake plenum, not on the rear cylinder head The passenger side one is a bit different. Feel on the back of the intake plenum about the passenger side for a metal support tab that comes down from the intake plenum and secures to the rear cylinder head. Where the support tab attaches to the head is a 8mm bolt that you remove. Now here come the leap of faith. If you have the 4, 10mm obvious bolts removed and the 2, 8mm from the rear of the plenum removed, and if you can rock the plenum up and down about 2-3 inches,but it still feels like its attached to the intake manifolds in the middle of the engine, then you have removed all the bolts that secure the intake plenum to the engine. This is good. The intake plenum is now being held on by the rear intake manifold by 3 O-ring gaskets. Push onto the back of the intake plenum near the firewall to expose a gap at the front of the intake plenum at the front intake manifold. Put 2-3 long flat screwdrivers into the gap or a small pry bar, and ever so gently but forcefully, apply prying force as to not damage the mating surface of the aluminum intake manifold, until the intake plenum pops off. It will just POP off. Now that the intake plenum is popped off, take careful note of all the electrical plugs and hoses as to where they attach. You will not need any tools to disconnect the electrical plugs or hoses. To remove the hoses, push down the red ring with you fingers that the hose goes into and pull on the hose, it should come out very easily. The electrical connectors, push on the metal clip down and pull the connector loose. The electrical connectors only plug into their own plug, so you cant mess them up. Tools you will need to replace the thermostat; 1. 8mm combo wrench. Make sure its not too long, shorter is better. 2. 10mm socket, shallow. 10mm combo wrench 3. 2-3 flat screwdrivers, for prying off the intake plenum 4. Ratchet wrench 5. 1 foot long worth of socket extensions. 2 6inch extensions will work as well 6. Universal socket joint 7. Angled needle nose pliers make it easier for hose clap removal, but straight needle nose pliers will work 8. Diagonal cutters to cut securing zip ties for the wiring harness Take you time, once the plenum is off it goes pretty smooth after that. We removed just the forward intake manifold and that was more than enough clearance to remove the thermostat. You do not need to remove the fuel rail or spark plug coils from the manifold but you will need to disconnect the electrical connections to move the intake manifold out of the way. Take pictures, there's a lot of hoses that go all over the place. The electrical connectors are only long enough to go where their supposed to go. Then take that UK piece of **** to the dealer and trade it in for anything made in the USA or Japan. Changing a thermostat in any of those will only take 10 min and require 1 tool. Repair provided by KPCYCLES.com of Honolulu, HI

videos https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALeKk00NYY6lrUgmsigci0X-mujA--MFwA%3A1609871695531&ei=T7H0X_jwH9Wq1QHgzJKoCQ&q=Freelander+remove+a+headlight ..

If it dies while the truck is sitting turned off, then you have an active circuit in the truck which should not be on (e.g. glove box or underhood light). To find the cause, an ammeter on one of the battery cables will show you a current drain and you can then pull fuses until the drain stops to find which circuit it is. If the battery is draining while the truck is running, it is not charging properly. This usually means the battery is shot (even a new one - do a load test) or the alternator regulator is faulty or you have a wiring/grounding problem in the charging circuit.

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t6668505-our_freelander_2_04_plate_immobiliser This is a generic alarm immobilizer reset procedure and it applies to most vehicles.

1. Step 1: Drivers Door Key Reset. Exit the car with all doors closed and the windows rolled up. ...
2. Step 2: Activate the Key Fob. ...
3. Step 3: Turn the Ignition On. ...
4. Step 4: Remove the Alarm Fuse. ...
5. Step 5: Disconnect Battery.

if your vehicle slows from 70 downto 60 with no change in revs ,then the transmission is slipping .. imust say i dont believe that the speed drops back without the revs dropping down too, i am not calling you a liar ,i`m saying you are not making accurate observations , and without those we are just guessing .