Koolatron Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

That clicking is probably a relay. It needs professional diagnosis. If it is small you can just take it to a refrigeration engineer and save the call out charge.

If your Koolatron cooler is not cooling down, even though the fan is working, there may be a problem with the compressor or the refrigerant. The compressor is a critical component of the cooling system, as it is responsible for compressing and circulating the refrigerant that absorbs heat from the air inside the cooler. If the compressor is faulty or damaged, it may not be able to compress the refrigerant properly, resulting in poor cooling performance. The refrigerant is a chemical substance that absorbs heat from the air inside the cooler and carries it to the compressor, where it is compressed and released. If the refrigerant level is low, the cooler may not be able to absorb enough heat to cool the air effectively. To fix this problem, you will need to diagnose and repair the faulty component. This may require the assistance of a qualified repair technician, as repairing a cooler's cooling system can be complex and hazardous.

Hi, this sounds like hardware damage. You might want to setup an appointment with your local geeksquad to have the fix the issue for you. Or you can call koolatron and request the fix. Doing internal harward repair on your own could be a dangerous task, so that's why I mad my suggestion. Thank you.

Request the wiring diagram (not a schematic) directly from Koolatron.

Did you regas unit after motor replacement?

Is the compressor running?

Take it back. It’s designed to cool, not heat.

check the thermistors ..Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.

Home Depot See photo

The only way to make it stop is to unplug it. And to make it stop permanently is to take it to a recycling center and wave bye bye to it. :(

1-800-265-8456 phone # for parts/service Koolatron U.S.A. 433 0 Commerce Dr. Bata via, NY 14020-4102 U.S.A. It is out of warranty if more than a year old. I can find no service manual. There is a generic video: http://www.newair.com/kb/repair-cooling-kit-wine-cooler/ Replacement parts were sold at Truck Stops. That said, coolers are not known for their longevity. Source: http://www.truck-drivers-money-saving-tips.com/thermoelectric-cooler.html What to Do When your Wine Cooler Wont Cool

Direct from Koolatron

RETRO VENDING FRIDGE thermoelectric cooler ... - Koolatron

https://www.koolatron.com > CVF18G-manual

PDF replacement parts, please telephone the following numbers ... CVF18-G. Please Read These Instructions Carefully Before Use! S.V.P., lire ... For long periods of storage, a small container of baking soda or charcoal, placed inside, will eliminate.

There has to be an internal breaker that went off or fuse. You may have to remove it from the casing to get to it.

thermostate

Any power supply that has the output you indicated will do the trick provided it fits into the allotted space.

Mine is doing the same thing I believe. My solution is to jam the offending push button so that it is always depressed. Be sure that it is at the required temperature when you push it in for the final time. I used the end of a flat toothpick to wedge in the gap beside the button.

there are a number of repair videos on you tube. Most systems will have a fuse, probably on control board. However, they don't normally fail unless there is another issue like a bad power supply.

Temp OK !?? door shut all the way !?? any obstruction preventing door from sealing ?? is unit Level ??

Thank you for your inquiry, Caroline!

From the information you have provided your Frigidaire laundry center is no longer working. I understand that you had to shut off power to your house and now your laundry center is not coming on. It sounds like you could have a possible short within your timer. I would recommend performing a reset on your laundry center and you can do that by unplugging the power cord for roughly ten minutes. If you continue to have issues with your dishwasher can you provide me with your model number? In order to locate your model number you can find the serial tag and that should be located on the inside wall of your dishwasher. I look forward to assisting you further. -OOS

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ