Klipsch Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

Question edited for a lot more clarity, fix typos and remove all the abbreviations. Question moved from Televisions to a better category. These are all the parts suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=106626+spl-120SW+NA+amp+kit ..

eBay is selling the one missing from your unit. $43. https://www.google.com/search?q=Creative+I+Trigue+L3450+audio+control+pod%2Fvolume+control+unit ..

It should work in one of the 3 Sub Output jacks. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/166604/Sunfire-Theater-Grand-Iv.html?page=12#manual ..

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/profile/58706-swa99a/ A powered subwoofer can be connected directly to a TV's output jacks to boost the bass. An audio Y-adapter condenses the stereo signals into a single signal for the subwoofer to reproduce the bass frequencies. ... Subwoofers connect with a single 1/4-inch audio cable. https://www.techwalla.com/articles/how-to-hook-a-powered-subwoofer-directly-to-a-tv

Klipsch is not forthcoming with internal diagrams. I have worked on / repaired some of them. They have components that are under rated for the application and fail. You will need to have it serviced if it pairs and you dont have sound.

No.
The RP-280F is just a passive floor standing speaker.
Passive means it does not produce any type of audio/sound itself. It must be powered by an external amplifier or other source of power outside from itself.
Therefore it cannot/does not adjust or modify the power & or frequencies provided by another product.
Usally your adjustments for bass & treble are located on the receiver/amplifier/stereo/whatever your power source is & is adjusted by the product that is producing the power.
Hope this helps.

yes you can. google difference between analog and didital speaker. there really in't any difference.

Mine too,when i Play load. It`s cut.

Split the interconnect, left to one power amp, right to the other. As section 4 in this manual (join free): Audiolab 8000Q Manual Stereo Preamplifier HiFi Engine

There is the panel mounted 4amp fuse, and then there is a circuit mounted 6amp inline fuse as well. Mine blew due to a power surge that blew up other things in my house as well. It’s a bear to get the circuit board screws off, and some green sealant off! Step 1) I’m ordering a panel mounted fuse holder that is the same style as the 4amp fuse holder. Step 2) drill hole in panel, and install fuse holder Step 3) no need to remove old fuse (since its blown) so I’m soldering wires from new fuse holder to the fuse ends on the circuit board

Clearly there is something too highly stressed, badly designed or of inferior quality within the amp but without access to the circuits and more details it is impossible to know what that is. From experience I would guess the truth of the matter is the company has not designed and/or built the amp itself but has either contracted-out this part of the production or has bought in ready-built amplifiers and adapted them for their purpose. Such a thing is common in commercial production and cuts production costs/increases profits drastically. It is not unusual that these practices result in things being short-lived and unreliable... Those who buy in ready made modules tend to be divorced from intimate contact with the circuits and the components used and often don't possess the required technical expertise for the task and are simply reading specifications and the bottom line and such people have the unfortunate habit of expecting a pint pot to contain a quart... Considering the increased profits, such people neither want or expect perfect performance or reliability just merely that most of the people most of the time are satisfied and not enough are dissatisfied to affect the overall brand reputation... Maybe it will be third time lucky for you...

Check manual for directions. No manual? go to website for guidance.

Those three analog inputs are designed for a 5.1 or higher computer sound card (front, rear, and sub/center) with analog outputs. Onboard sound cards are mostly poor quality, so the Klipsch will not sound as good as if you have a better internal or external sound card (such as Creative's Sound Blaster, e.g., SB1). If you only have a digital surround sound source, such as a TV, Xbox, satellite or cable receiver, then you need a digital to analog decoder. Klipsch made a nice decoder, the DD-5.1. It converts optical and other digital signals to the analog signals your Klipsch ProMedia uses.

Then either your amp is not working or the speaker in the cabinet is blown. If you do not know how to test this, you need to take it to a repair shop.

Check the speaker/s. If found OK; check and replace the damaged component/s at its audio output section circuit board. If needy, replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Search the site by type in the "brand name" to your device; in the "Search box at the top right of the display window of the Homepage" to get gathered related posts. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

Contact the manufacturer's support site

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Do you using original cable from Klipsch? Make sure your charger is on normal working conditions. It is difficult to fix the USB port, except the experts.

Check the cone surround - unless it is a rubber butyl surround, the material self destructs in air after about ten years and the speaker will stop woofing.