KitchenAid Microwave Ovens - Page 3 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

If the magnetron is still operating when off, needless to say , its pretty dangerous. The door lock unit usually has at least 3 microswitches to ensure that the door is closed and ready to operate. 1 of the switches is a safety switch which will cause a dead short if the door is forced open or something goes wrong with the door not closing correctly. This will "blow" the internal fuse in the machine. If the magnetron keeps going, its possible one of these switches have failed or there is an electronic fault causing power to the magnetron in the off position although, I would strongly feel this would be unlikely. These machines are made with a lot of safety devices.

You have a shorting membrane keypad.

If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

So until it is repaired, please leave it unplugged or leave the door open when it's not in use, and please do not leave it running unattended.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

If not, please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you better.

In many brands there is a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you would like to have us do this repair for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
We're happy to help you. Once we have all your information and offer a final solution, we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

have it inspectied my a real company . if it was wired wrong, such as the oven was 220 volts and the microwave was 110 volt they tried to split the 220 down to 110 and wired it wrong. my question is was there a oven there before, if not did they run new wires for that oven . 220 volt needs 4 wires to run it , to be right. It sounds like 220 was put to the microwave.

Sounds like faulty house wiring to the unit. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gary_9c859f4aa7e5ab10

Check the HV diode on the right side which is connected to ground. They are famous for faulting. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gary_9c859f4aa7e5ab10

The pop was the microwave bulb shorting out. No way to repair: For approximately $80-150 you can get a new one at Lowes.

Checking and replacing the three microswitches would help.

Hello Jimmy Hester, This could be a GREAT TIME to consider calling in a PROFESSIONAL... They walk in... pull out the wall plug... pull out the PC board... Poke the soldering iron at a BAD (cold solder) joint... BINGO ... all is well. Mishandling a CIRCUIT BOARD could change a minor issue to a MAJOR FAILURE... EASY. There are a couple of REALLY great reasons these appliances say ... "NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS INSIDE" - Primary: novices & amateurs (where EVERYBODY real actually started) need to be trained to wear STATIC Protection... $6 (for a good one, see below). A simple wrist strap. Electro-STATIC spark you might not even feel is enough to DESTROY any semiconductor Amazon com Rosewill ESD Anti Static Wrist Strap Components RTK 002 Black... Could also be a simple PC Board "re-seat"... if it is done with the POWER ON... the oven gets ruined. You really ought consider adding in the MAKE & MODEL.. You will be rewarded with much better than scary stories... If you do manage to get a wrist band... actually remove POWER... & get that control board (PC) out... Look at the solder side... Check for soot or obvious cracks. Use a really bright light and a jewelers loop. We can guide you with a solder sucker... good iron, soldering wick... goggles... burn proof flooring, clothes and furniture... But as you start adding up all the costs... and the remote chance of success... Would it NOT BE EASIER... to look up a 5 STAR repair shop... (not my normal recommendation) I'm just saying... Soldering is not as EASY as it looks. Carnac the Magnificent IRON Weller W60P3 60Watts 120V Controlled Output Soldering Iron With 3 Wire... Sucker (braided copper wick) https://www.amazon.com/Puraid-CP-2015-Desoldering-Soldering-Accessory/dp/B01MRGSLIS/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1513915911&sr=1-4&keywords=desoldering+tools Vacuum sucker Amazon com Ingdy TM 1pc Solder Sucker Desoldering Pump Tool Removal Vacuum...

With the cover off, disconnect the primary of the power transformer. Now, with a good fuse try again. If the fuse blows again check the three microswitches in the latch assembly. If the fuse doesn't blow than the magnetron or diode are shorted.

the Magnetron has gone (yes it's really called that) that's the part of the microwave that emits radio waves and cooks your food... 30 years ago when this tech (Microwave cooking) was new and expensive it was cheaper to replace that part than buy new... now it's the other way around... at least you still have a working electric convection oven. it's very rare that a Magnetron go bad, so look for an old one of the same model and use that one for parts if it's that loved.

If you're referring to the cavity light, it's possible the bulb is just loose in its socket. The cover has to be removed to access the bulb.

The door switches are the problem. Well, actually one of them is. when you open and close the door make sure the switches are actually being engaged. I have seen the plastic snaps that hold them broken and the switch just moves. Just replace all three switches and you will be fine.

Sounds like door switch problems or bad wires or connections at the door switches

I assume the display is hard to see but otherwise the unit function correctly? I'm going to gear my answer to this issue. If everything on unit functions but just can't see clock and temp. settings, you have a bad display. That's gonna be part #2. I'm not how to upload video but go to youtube and type in Kitchenaid slide in electric control replacement. The top video should give you a good idea on how to change display board out. Good Luck

The clicking sound would probably be a realy on the Circuit board. Do you have it set on Full power?? If it is set on a lower power setting the relays will open and close to try to regulate the cook power.

http://www.applianceaid.com/repair-help.html

 for complete step by step guide for ur microvave parts and fitting procedure