KEF Audio Recent Questions, Troubleshooting Help & Support

I'd suspect a shorting voice coil in the woofer or a loose connection inside that vibrates and presents a wildly varying load.

Disconnect the bi-wiring jumpers and try driving each 'half' separately as a test for tripping the amp.

if it's not a filter problem connect the otherone..

Try reversing the POLARITY of the wires on the speaker that is playing at a low volume (swap wires connected to the + and - terminals of the speakers). This would put the speaker back in phase if it were reverse connected, and provide the expected volume level again.

Good luck!

Buzzing is usally AC line noise leaking into an un-shielded cable somewhere or a floating ground. If the AC plug is reversible, try that. Sometimes the buzz is from an attached device. Make sure all audio cables are plugged in tightly at each end and routed away from or at right angles to any power cords and away from other sources of strong magnetic fields like TV's.

Disconnect the input(s) and see if it hums in the absence of an audio source. A bad audio cable shield or unwisely-routed audio cables will allow entrance of unwanted signals from external power sources, magnetic fields, even dimmer-controlled track lights.
I've also seen variable track lights induce noise but it's usually minor.

Try rotating the power cord in the wall outlet.

If it still buzzes with no cables or anything external attached there's an internal problem.

Google search for "martin sound products" they are a company that resides in Cleveland Ohio, they have all the parts you need, you can even buy reconing materials for various sizes of speakers. they sell wholesale, but all you need to do is fill out the paper work and they will send you a catalog and price sheet. there prices are very fair and the products range from "economy" to " high end". another option is Seismic Audio, they have a "EBAY" store as well as regular catalog ordering, great company, but they sell mostly higher end products, so if you want high output loud speakers, they are the ones for you. good luck

It's more like the "crossover" that's inside cabinet. Crossover splits signal to the speakers hi's, mid's and lo's. It's highly unlikely you blew you blew hi and mid speakers. Contact folks like Radio Shack, etc for optional crossover(s)

There are four posts - two black and two red. They should be connected together, as shown in the picture. If you are missing the brass straps, simply use wire to reconnect the posts, black-black and red-red.

Then it's a simple matter of connecting the red (+) amplifier output to one of the red terminals, and the black (-) amplifier terminal to the black terminal on the KEF.

The KEF terminals can be seperated if you wish to "biamp" or "biwire" these speakers. Each black/red pair is dedicated to either the bass or the treble. For higher fidelity, some listeners prefer to run seperate wires from a single amplifier channel to each individual speaker input.

If you have posts that look like this, yes - just make sure the straps (connecting the red to red, etc) are removed.

From the factory, those are equipped with "jumpers", one for red-red and one for black-black. This allows for one speaker cable to power one speaker.

The jumpers can be removed, allowing for "bi-wiring", where you run two leads from a single amp channel to both inputs on each speaker. There's also "bi-amping", using a treble amp and a bass amp dedicated to each input.

If the jumpers are missing, you can use a short piece of stripped speaker wire to reconnect the upper and lower binding posts, just be sure to match colors.

The KEF-Subwoofer range (from the PSW1000 up to PSW 3000?) have some built-in flaws in the electronic design.

I just fixed my PSW2000 working along the repairing instructions from:

http://lug.demon.co.uk/kefrepair/

Works! Costs have been about 35,- Euro for spare parts and some (too many) hours of work. If you are used to electronics and soldering you may make it in 2 hours.

Bass is mono directional in the main,and while your sub has a left and right input ( because a few amps do have left and right sub outs) only one of them is required (usually marked as MONO on the sub). You can also get a Y splitter phono adapter and connect the single cable you have to both sockets, which is how I have mine set up. This is most common