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If you want to test the anti afterfire solenoid, merely disconnect the wire at the solenoid while the engine is running. It should die from lack of fuel after a few seconds, certainly less than a minute.

If the engine will not run and you suspect the afterfire solenoid, you can remove the plunger from the solenoid and put the solenoid back in bottom of carburetor and then attempt to start engine. If it still won't start/run then the problem is not the afterfire solenoid.

One caveat with this test method. If the engine kill shunt is somehow not working and engine OFF has relied on the anti afterfire solenoid, the engine won't shut off with the key. You will have to remove the NEG (frame ground) battery connection to kill the engine.

kawasaki Garden | Answered on Mar 31, 2019 | 28 views


If you search on Google for workshop manuals Kawasaki 1033 1981 There are lots of them on there

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 29, 2019 | 19 views


Hi, Maartin for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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1983 kawasaki KZ... | Answered on Mar 27, 2019 | 29 views


Hi, Liam for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 26, 2019 | 41 views


Try unplugging the Handle Bar Kill Switch.....Sounds like the CDI is grounded.....Make sure the Pick Up wire from the Engine case is plugged into the wiring harness...This is what triggers the CDI to fire the Spark Plug........

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 26, 2019 | 20 views


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kawasaki GPZ 500... | Answered on Mar 26, 2019 | 60 views


Sounds like a neutral switch relay problem....check your relays and fuses..........

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 28, 2019 | 34 views


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2007 kawasaki Z... | Answered on Mar 25, 2019 | 174 views


Hi, David for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
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1989 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 25, 2019 | 387 views


Hi, Francis and the usual suspects are:
1. Both bulb elements burned out.
2. Faulty rear fender wiring harness connector.
3. Rear wheel has worn through the wire harness.
4. Tail light housing socket not grounded.
5. Bulb contacts are worn out not making contact.
6. Socket housing contacts are broken.
7. Socket housing contact pad spring collapsed.
8. Socket housing contact pad stuck.
8. Light fuse has blown.
9. Faulty or corroded ignition switch.
10. Faulty wiring from the ignition switch to the rear fender wiring harness.
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2004 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 24, 2019 | 27 views


Hi, Rick parts swapping is common with most motorcycles when it comes to interchangeable or compatible parts from one model with another "EXCEPT" for the CDI's they are year-make-model "SPECIFIC" the best thing to do is call your local Dealership Parts Department or a reputable independent shop. If your location is not near a shop then go online and find a parts catalog or "FICHE" and match part numbers depending on your criteria.
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1996 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 22, 2019 | 16 views


Hi, Diana the following is a systematic procedure for diagnosing fuel pump issues designed to keep "DRACHMA" to a minimum. If you need parts, check with Amazon and eBay first to keep costs down.
1. If your pump does not turn on check the pump fuse and relay and all wiring including connectors for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
1. Normal fuel pump pressure is 3-5 PSI.
2. Check any rubber or plastic tubing for age-related pinholes by removing and plugging the ends that connect to the fuel valve and then turn on the ignition switch and watch for fuel streams exiting the pinholes, if any exist, replace tubing as necessary.
3. Check for a clogged a primary fuel filter that comes off the bottom of the pump to screen out big rocks and clean as necessary.
4. Check for a clogged secondary fuel filter that's outside if applicable by removing it from the system and replace it with a short splicing tube turn on the ignition switch and recheck fuel pressure if pressure increases to normal pressure you need a new secondary filter.
5. If all the above check out OK and the pump is not functioning properly then you need a new fuel pump.
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1997 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Mar 21, 2019 | 186 views


Hi, Jerry if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
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2000 kawasaki W... | Answered on Mar 21, 2019 | 17 views


What do you mean by overloaded? Do you mead too high of RPM's? Floating the valves can result in the valves hitting a piston and bending one of them or worse.

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 20, 2019 | 26 views


Bikes of that age only need a few things to run.

Compression
Fuel
A spark at the right time

One of those three is defective?

Compression, check with a compression tester
Fuel, is it clean and fresh. Is it getting to the spark plug, it is wet with gasoline?
A spark at the right time. New spark plug and engine correctly timed. A nice fat blue spark if you put the plug against the cylinder head?

kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 18, 2019 | 26 views


Hi, Wanda for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1987 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 14, 2019 | 25 views


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1994 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 13, 2019 | 73 views


Hi, Brandon TTY fasteners were first used to clamp together bi-metal components such as aluminum and cast iron engines, and aluminum brake knuckles. TTY fasteners are now found on all kinds of vehicles. Unless the "service manual" specifically states not to reuse the fastener it is ok to use them again.
Buying new bolts may seem expensive. After all, the old bolts still look good, but looks can be deceiving. Reusing the old bolts can cause expensive engine failure. Hence only new bolts can provide the even clamping force needed on today's engines.
Why do we need these torque to yield bolts now? We didn't need them in the 1960?s or 70?s! The simple answer is engine materials are different. Aluminum cylinder heads expand at a different rate than cast iron blocks. As an engine warms up, bolted together parts have to move against each other or slide on their gaskets. Therefore the elastic properties of the torque to yield bolts allow movement between parts yet maintain even clamping loads and sealing.
When a shop manual indicates that a bolt is to be discarded and new ones used, they are almost always torqued to yield bolts.
TTY studs can be identified by sight because of the inset hex head at the end of the stud. Always check the service information to get the right amount of torque for a suspension component TTY or otherwise.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 12, 2019 | 21 views


Exhaust Butterfly Valve - RiderForums.com


https://www.riderforums.com/z1k-z750.../58255-ehaust-butterfly-valve.html

May 25, 2010 - I am getting an error code of 63 which tells me it's the. ... 2007 Kawasaki Z1000 w/ Full Race 4-2-1 Akra, PCIII, K&N, Airbox Mod, Engine Ice, ...

Exhaust install = Service code 63???? - KawiForums - Kawasaki ...


https://www.kawiforums.com/2007.../102064-exhaust-install-service-code-63-a.html

Feb 10, 2008 - 8 posts - ‎4 authors
Join Date: Dec 2007. Location: san ... Has anyone had this code show up? If so, was it ... code 63 is the exhaust butterfly servo. Penna zx6r is ...

FI codes - Kawasaki Z1000 Forum: Kawasaki Z1000 Motorcycle Forums


https://www.z1000forum.com/forum/z1000-service.../141042-fi-codes.html

Apr 8, 2014 - 5 posts - ‎3 authors
Hi is it possible to view FI codes on a 2013 z1k gen 3? If yes what's the ... No i have code 39 ecu communication error. My fan comes on as ... FI Code Quick Chart and Z1000 owner Manual (3rd gen ...
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for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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kawasaki... | Answered on Mar 11, 2019 | 21 views

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