If you want to test the anti afterfire solenoid, merely disconnect the wire at the solenoid while the engine is running. It should die from lack of fuel after a few seconds, certainly less than a minute.
If the engine will not run and you suspect the afterfire solenoid, you can remove the plunger from the solenoid and put the solenoid back in bottom of carburetor and then attempt to start engine. If it still won't start/run then the problem is not the afterfire solenoid.
One caveat with this test method. If the engine kill shunt is somehow not working and engine OFF has relied on the anti afterfire solenoid, the engine won't shut off with the key. You will have to remove the NEG (frame ground) battery connection to kill the engine.
Try unplugging the Handle Bar Kill Switch.....Sounds like the CDI is grounded.....Make sure the Pick Up wire from the Engine case is plugged into the wiring harness...This is what triggers the CDI to fire the Spark Plug........
Hi, Diana the following is a systematic procedure for diagnosing fuel pump issues designed to keep "DRACHMA" to a minimum. If you need parts, check with Amazon and eBay first to keep costs down.
1. If your pump does not turn on check the pump fuse and relay and all wiring including connectors for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
1. Normal fuel pump pressure is 3-5 PSI.
2. Check any rubber or plastic tubing for age-related pinholes by removing and plugging the ends that connect to the fuel valve and then turn on the ignition switch and watch for fuel streams exiting the pinholes, if any exist, replace tubing as necessary.
3. Check for a clogged a primary fuel filter that comes off the bottom of the pump to screen out big rocks and clean as necessary.
4. Check for a clogged secondary fuel filter that's outside if applicable by removing it from the system and replace it with a short splicing tube turn on the ignition switch and recheck fuel pressure if pressure increases to normal pressure you need a new secondary filter.
5. If all the above check out OK and the pump is not functioning properly then you need a new fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/16-vulcan-1500/136538-fuel-pump-failure.html How to fix Repair faulty fuel pump on your motorbike motorcycle Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki 1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Owner Manual
Hi, Jerry if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6480 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeVXRHH0G4Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N71GfFikyxw https://www.scribd.com/doc/62379373/w650-Service-Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki https://ownersmanuals2.com/kawasaki/w650-2000-owners-manual-68970
Compression, check with a compression tester
Fuel, is it clean and fresh. Is it getting to the spark plug, it is wet with gasoline?
A spark at the right time. New spark plug and engine correctly timed. A nice fat blue spark if you put the plug against the cylinder head?
Hi, Brandon TTY fasteners were first used to clamp together bi-metal components such as aluminum and cast iron engines, and aluminum brake knuckles. TTY fasteners are now found on all kinds of vehicles. Unless the "service manual" specifically states not to reuse the fastener it is ok to use them again.
Buying new bolts may seem expensive. After all, the old bolts still look good, but looks can be deceiving. Reusing the old bolts can cause expensive engine failure. Hence only new bolts can provide the even clamping force needed on today's engines.
Why do we need these torque to yield bolts now? We didn't need them in the 1960?s or 70?s! The simple answer is engine materials are different. Aluminum cylinder heads expand at a different rate than cast iron blocks. As an engine warms up, bolted together parts have to move against each other or slide on their gaskets. Therefore the elastic properties of the torque to yield bolts allow movement between parts yet maintain even clamping loads and sealing.
When a shop manual indicates that a bolt is to be discarded and new ones used, they are almost always torqued to yield bolts.
TTY studs can be identified by sight because of the inset hex head at the end of the stud. Always check the service information to get the right amount of torque for a suspension component TTY or otherwise.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.zxforums.com/forums/mechanical-technical/50858-head-bolts.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HI8bIxuGT18 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki 2001 Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Owner Manual