kawasaki Garden - Page 9 - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

You have a problem with your carburator.The problem is most likely the float, the needle valve ,or the needle valve seat. This isn't a difficult fix, you need to remove the fuel bowl under the carburator which is held in place buy a 1/2 inch bolt. There you will see your float, gently push up the float, it should be parallel with the upper section of the carburator. If not adjust float to make this happen. If float is off this is your problem, also float should not be full of gas, if so replace. If not we move on to the needle valve, remove pin that holds up your float and inspect your needle valve tip , if damaged replace. This could be your second problem,if not we move on to the third problem.The needle valve sits in a seat, it is about 1/4 inch round with a 1/32 inch hole in the center, top is flat, bottom is grooved. This seat can be removed with a pick tool. This problem can be fixed with carburator on the engine, but most of the time carburators are removed. You can do what ever you wish.
I believe the problem is with your float adjustment , you can fix this quick and get mowing again.
I am interested in how you make out. GOOD LUCK.

If the motor is turning and the blades are not moving it is likely that you have sheared the pin on the gear.

hi there

if you had the carby off and cleaned it out , was the fuel flow from tank to fuel pump ( if it has one ) good , and was the output from pump to carb good on cranking?

if so and the breather in cap is venting , it could be that the governor needs adjusting, possibly have got a spring in the incorrect position and there is no binding , pay to check , carby main jet closly for any obstruction. check the fuel level and float hieght .

most times hunt / surge is caused by obstruction to fuel flow , or governor

try holding the governor in a fixed position if hunt / surge still apparent - carby is causing fault
but if not governor setup is causing problem

cheers pauly46

so, tell me have you checked your oil level? that would be the first thing to do then check your oil pressure switch and /connections

SAE 30 only; if using conventional oil. I recommend using synthetic engine oil. If you go with synthetic, you can use a multi-viscosity oil like 10W-30, but only use staight SAE 30 if using conventional oil. Many benefits to using synthetic oil. It cleans the engine as it runs, it provides superior protection and helps cool the engine parts better, and it almost assures you 100% that your engine won't fail because of the type of oil used.

hi there iowaboy203

pauly 46 here

here is web site to download a service manual

http://www.encoreequipment.com/servicebook/05DealerTips/13%20Kawasaki%20Engines/Engine%20Service%20Manuals/27hp_FD750D.pdf

but here is

head bolt torque 20 ft/lb
con rod cap bolts 15 ft/ lb
case cover to block bolts 16 ft/ lb
flywheel 41 ft/ lbs

in / ex valve clearance 0.006 thou

compression 170 psi minimum

here is another web site for parts diagram

www.kawpower.com

just enter site then click on 4 stroke engines,then click on fd series , then click fd750d , then find So3

like so 4 Stroke Engines > FD SERIES > FD750D > FD750D-_S03
and view parts diagram

take a look hope it helps

cheers pauly46

Well, petrol in the oil usualy means the needle valve in the carborator is stuck open. It has allowed the fuel to leak into the carb and flow into the cylinder, past the piston and rings, and into the crankcase. You need to stop the fuel leak in the carb, and then change the oil.
For most lawn mowers, especially those with a 2-stroke engine, the petrol and gas are mixed to ensure lubrication of moving parts. 4-stroke engines (as commonly found on ride on mowers), usually have the oil and petrol separated. If you have a 4-stroke engine, then you need to disassemble it and replace the piston rings to stop the petrol from leaking into the crank case. Log on http://petrol-lawnmowers.org.uk/ thanks for using fixya

hi there garn8

you will want to use a 10w/30 synthetic blend oil 4 cycle engine oil api service CJ-4

this synthetic blend gives good protection as recommended by kawasaki

use will most likly need about 2 litres + a oil filter

you will need your model and type codes from engine sticker ie fh641v-as04

here is web site

http://kmcb2c.econnect.partsandwarranty.com/kmcb2c/Menu?action=CATALOGB2B&chID=319529&elementType=1&historyDepth=1&CHANGENUMBEROFITEMS=63

then you need to select eg as04 or ????? from the list

cheers pauly46

You can get this information at any John Deere dealership or at your public library. I don't really understand your problem. All fuel tanks have a port on their bottom side where a fuel line is attached that runs directly to your carburator, with possibly a filter in between.I hope this will make things a little easier for you. GOOD LUCK.

Symptoms are caused by the engine running lean. Clean the fuel system including blowing out all jets in the carby. Regards Phil

The blown fuse may be due to wiring problem. Most likely a short. You would have to inspect the wiring and the terminals to be sure. Look out for insulation that may have gone bad, loose connection, corroded terminals and the likes.

I do not think they still make these but I have seen some sold at around $3,500 more or less. As for the manual, they do not license the manuals. You have to contact them.

http://www.bobcatturf.com/bob-cat-contact-us.aspx

Yes your fuse has been blown off. The fuse will be 100 amps rating.

You can order the parts at http://www.ereplacementparts.com/kawasaki-fh661vbs05-stroke-engine-parts-c-30157_30211_32187.html

cant help unless I know what the carb is, sorry.

Seems odd that after changing carbs you have this symptom but a dirty air cleaner or restiction in the air intake ducting can cause this. I note you said you changed the air filter(s). I am assuming you changed both the paper and foam filters. My thoughts are maybe there is some gasket material partially blocking the intake under the carb so when under load it is acting like the Choke is on. ( Before you go lifting off the carb.. a partially engaged choke valve will do the same thing. It will run just fine at low speeds or little load but when you put a heavy load it will choke out / get too much fuel.

Last thing that can cause the engine to act really weird is that the gas cap is vented and if the vent is clogged in the gas cap it will cause very unstable operation of the engine at higher rpms.

Your engine service manual is here:
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/images/manuals/FH641-Service.pdf
Carb informationis in section 2 - 8

I reommend you inspect
- the tank cap (no plastic bag in place of the rubber under the gas cap to prevent the tank from leaking)
- the choke linkage and position of choke valve (Off or partially on?)
- screen if any under the air filter (Thinking out of the box... what if the air filter is being drawn against the air cleaner / filter housing causing a choke situation under load)

Don't do this for very long but try a high load test with the air filters removed.

One last dumb thought is... the fuel pump is ported to the engine crank case breather. If the diaphragm fails it can put fuel in the oil which will cause the oil level to rise due to the added gas and then end up over pressurizing the crank case. (You said you changed the oil.. and I would think the oil level is still the same as it was post oil change.)

Those are my thoughts and recommendations for the moment. If anything else come to mind I will send you another post.

If you have questions feel free to ask. I wll tell you that I am using the service manual and my 40 + years of experience to help you.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

You should have around 13.1 volts at the battery as the engine runs. If its 12 volts or lower - check or replace the voltage regulator. To check the regulator, stop engine, remove regulator plug, get a ohm meter and put the black lead to any ground,and touch the red lead to all the terminals one by one on the voltage regulator - you should get 3 readings - one lower than the other. If you dont get any readings - the regulator is definitely bad

Don in Baltimore

No. A metal float is adjusted by slightly bending the small metal tangs on the float that hold the retaining pin as it hangs from the main carburetor body . If you feel the need to adjust the level of the float, your normal setting is with the float "level" in relation to the lower carburetor body. That is in it's raised position when it has sealed the fuel inlet by pushing the float needle all the way into it's seat; thus shutting off fuel flow into the bowl.

Hi,

A damaged or misgapped spark plug can cause the engine to misfire. Replace the spark plug and see if that solves the problem.
Also, check for deterioration of the insulation on the plug wire and that cap on plug wire is firmly seated.

Hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate a 4 thumbs up. Thanks,

Handie Andie

A quick explination of how to tell how big a Kawi is the model number. Those ending in 0 are the rough displacement (cc's) of the engine, those ending in 1 are a up or down hp version of the 0's in the same family. A quick explination of how to tell how big a Kawi is the model number. Those ending in 0 are the rough displacement (cc's) of the engine, those ending in 1 are a up or down hp version of the 0's in the same family. A quick explination of how to tell how big a Kawi is the model number. Those ending in 0 are the rough displacement (cc's) of the engine, those ending in 1 are a up or down hp version of the 0's in the same family. all aa





check your engine model #
all fh641v series 675 cc 21 hp

Specs: HP cc Bore x Stroke

FH480V 16HP 472cc 68mm x 65mm
FH541V 17HP 585cc 74mm x 68mm
FH580V 19HP 585cc 74mm x 68mm
FH641V 21HP 675cc 75.2mm x 76mm
FH680V 23HP 675cc 75.2mm x 76mm
FH721V 25HP 675cc 75.2mm x 76mm

FH641V 21HP 675cc 75.2mm x 76mm 41.19 cubic inch

there must be differences in the valves and carb sizing / jetting to make engines put out more hp similar to briggs with their engines

When asked for serial, I.E. AS01, BS01, etc., the lower the letter, the newer the engine. It doesn't really matter, except for maybe spark plug reach or other subtle changes

A quick explination of how to tell how big a Kawi is the model number. Those ending in 0 are the rough displacement (cc's) of the engine, those ending in 1 are a up or down hp version of the 0's in the same family.

here is good website for any parts -:
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/kawasaki-fh641vas04-stroke-engine-parts-c-30157_30211_32002.html

cheers pauly46

Find the carburetor and take a look inside. Don't buy any kit until you visually inspect the bowl, float and seal. The float could have gas inside. If you can get inside the carb, then you may be able to see the problem. You are also right, it may need a cleaning.
Gary

You are ON the tractor when you engage ... right? There is a switch which requires the operator to be in the operator position when the blades are engaged. If you are in the seat and this still happens, check the switch for proper operation. You can do this by jumpering the switch. If it is the switch, MAKE SURE YOU GTE IT FIXED. Do not leave the safety device by-passed.

If this is not the problem, please re-post your question and mention that it is not the "operator presence" safety switch.

Thanks for your question.