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The American Disability Act requires that ramps

Hello cbado. Your johnson 700 is perfect for this job but it still requires you to do some trigonometry. ArcTan[1/12] ? 4.7636?

Yes that's right the 1:12 pitch converts to 4.7636 degrees.

I have constructed a number of these ramps living in an area where diabetes is common. Here is an excellent overall guide that may be helpful to you:

  1. Calculate the length of your ramp. The Americans With Disabilities Act mandates that wheelchair ramps can not slope down more than 1 inch for every 12 inches of length. Measure how high the surface is that the ramp is leading to, then multiply the number of inches by 12. This tells you the minimum length that your wheelchair ramp will need to be. It is acceptable to construct your ramp longer than this length, but not shorter.
  2. Decide what design will work best on your property. The most common layouts for wheelchair ramps are the L Shape, U Shape and Switchback. These designs allow the wheelchair ramp to travel the required distance without stretching endlessly across the property. Remember that both the top and bottom of the ramp should be level with the surface they connect to. The bottom should also lead directly into a sidewalk or driveway so that there is easy access to the ramp.

  3. Check with your municipal government to find out if you are required to obtain a building permit for your wheelchair ramp. Some cities will require a permit while others will not. The department that issues permits will vary from one location to the next. Contact the office of the City Clerk in your town to find out who is responsible for building permits and code enforcement, and then check with that office to get approval to construct your wheelchair ramp.

  4. Use snap chalk to mark the area where your wheelchair ramp will be constructed. This chalk is on a string that pulls out like a tape measure. Hold the chalk against the ground and give it a quick snap to instantly have a chalk line marking the area. You should not only mark the length and layout of where the wheelchair ramp will be, but also the width of the ramp. The wheelchair ramp needs to be a minimum of 36 inches wide, although 40-45 inches is ideal and will provide more room to maneuver.

  5. Dig your post-holes. Mark an area on your chalk line where your posts will be located. There should be a post located at each end of the wheelchair ramp, and spaced every 48 inches in between. The space between can be adjusted a little to compensate for your design, but having a post every 48 inches will provide solid support for the weight of your ramp. Each post should be accompanies by an adjacent post directly across, on the other side of the ramp. Once all locations have been marked, use a set of post hole diggers to dig a hole 24 inches deep at each post location.

  6. Plant your posts in the ground. Start by cutting your posts to length. Each posts should be long enough to extend from 24 inches below ground to 36 inches above the floor of the wheelchair ramp. This means that the posts at the high end of the ramp will be longer than the posts at the low end, so measure and cut accordingly. You should use 4x4 boards for the posts, and secure them with concrete. This step is easier if a friend can assist you, so that one can hold the post steady while the other pours the concrete. Check the post with a level to make sure it is perfectly vertical before the concrete has time to dry.

  7. Measure your posts and mark the location of the sideboards. Start at the high end of the ramp and identify the spot that is level with the area the ramp leads to. Mark a spot on the post that is 2.75 inches below this, to account for the space that flooring will use. Mark this area on both the inside and outside of each posts at the high end of the ramp. Continue down to the next post, dropping your mark slightly to accommodate for distance. You are creating a slope that descends 1 inch for every 12 inches of distance, so if your posts are 48 inches apart, the mark on the next post will fall four inches below the mark of the previous post. Repeat this process until you reach the end of the ramp.

  8. Attach your sideboards to the posts. Use 2x4" studs to create your sideboards. You will be placing one sideboard on each side of the post (inside and outside). Each side should be at the same level/height on the post, as well as the same level as the post directly adjacent on the other side of the ramp. Start at the high end of the ramp. Hold the sideboard in place and hammer a single nail through the board into the post. Using a single now allows you the freedom of moving the board to adjust its position on the next post. Put 2-3 nails in the board at the second post, then return to add additional nails at the first one. Repeat this process until sideboards run all the way down the inside and outside edges of the wheelchair ramp.

  9. Construct the floor joists for the wheelchair ramp. Again, use 2x4" studs for this part of the ramp. The length will depend on how wide you chose to make your ramp. They should be long enough to go from the outside edge of one side of the ramp, to the outside edge of the other side. Lay these boards flat across the tops of the sideboards you created in Step 8 and nail them into position. They should be spaced so that you have one joist every 24 to 36 inches down the length of the ramp. There should also be one at each end of the ramp at the very edge.

  10. Build the floor of your wheelchair ramp. Stand ¾ inch thick plywood makes the best floor for the ramp. Use a circular saw to cut the plywood into pieces that will read across the ramp from side to side. You may also need to cut notches in some pieces so that they will fit around your posts. As the plywood is cut, lay the pieces on top of the joists your built in the previous step. Use a hammer to nail the plywood into the joists with short nails. Place several nails into each joist to hold the plywood tight. This will prevent the wood from warping or creaking.

  11. Create side rails for the wheelchair ramp. Each post should extend roughly 36 inches above the floor of the ramp. Take advantage of this space by nailing 1x4" boards to the posts along the entire length of the ramp. This creates a sturdy side rail that will help prevent accidents and also give people something to hold onto if they should need assistance making it all the way up the ramp. JOE

Thanks for choosing Fixya!

12/2/2010 8:18:57 PM • Johnson Level &... • 95 views • 1 helpful votes
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I have a 1978 70 hp johnson with the spark plugs

Hi, with your spark plugs in you are turning the engine over against compression, thats why its harder to turn. The binding noise could be your piston rings, buts its difficult to say without further information. Sorry
7/15/2010 5:54:11 PM • Johnson Minn... • 440 views • 0 helpful votes
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Cutting old johnson 3/4 steel

the best option is to follow the steel pipe back to the next threaded fitting. Then install an adapter to convert to the plastic.
9/16/2010 8:05:19 PM • Johnson Plumbing • 78 views • 0 helpful votes
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Just bought a garman 14 ft. jon boat wide

Check fuel filter first to see if there is any trash or water clogging it up. Make sure the gas tank is venting and the fuel connections are secure. Check both cylinders for spark, the gap should be around .030". If motor cranks up and tries to die again pump the primer bubble to see if this helps, if it helps this would indicate a fuel pump problem, if not then the first thing I would do is clean the carburater which is more than likely what is wrong.
8/8/2010 7:17:22 PM • Johnson Ma100... • 100 views • 0 helpful votes
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I have a 1977 85 hp johnson outboard it started

i have a 1977 85 hp johnson outboard it started and idiled for about a minute and now i cant get it to fire at all its got good spark possibly not getting fuel but is there anything else i should check
5/6/2010 10:33:18 PM • Johnson Minn... • 688 views • 0 helpful votes
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The body has sunk on my mandolin between the sound

Sounds like the bridge was either in the wrong place or the string tension excessive.

Sometimes there are low, medium, and high tension grades of strings.
Find out what your mandolin requires.

If the strings are snapping, you are tuning them wrong. They should NOT break with 10% over the final tuning. It sounds like you may be using the wrong strings.

De-string it to see if the wood will recover. If it doesn't take the instrument to a Luthier for repair.
2/28/2010 9:56:36 PM • Johnson Ma100... • 205 views • 0 helpful votes
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HOW DO YOU MOUNT/ATTACH THE DOOR GUIDES THAT GO ON

the door guides are supposed to be installed to the floor and the frame before the door stop trim is installed. You may have to pull that trim off and you will be able to secure it to the floor and frame. Then reinstall the door stop trim
1/6/2010 8:47:10 PM • Johnson 2117562... • 102 views • 0 helpful votes
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I can't wear my bra and panty!

It must be because your too much of a **** to have bought any...
10/17/2009 4:04:39 AM • Johnson Water... • 883 views • 0 helpful votes
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Johnson Outboard motor. 3.3 HP.

Hey BK, Its still the carburetor!.... take it to a qualified professional.. there are TOO many tiny passages and jets that must be perfectly clean for a small engine to run properly..
5/22/2009 10:45:26 PM • Johnson Boating • 1,028 views • 0 helpful votes
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Wiring diagram for a minn kota mk220 2 bank charger

First. the +/positive/hot wires go to the respective/separate +positive/hot side battery terminals.. and the -/negative/ground wire go to their respective/separate -/negative/ground battery terminals. The wires from the charger are "paired out".. meaning the + and - pair must go to the same battery. .. you can't mix and match.
2/27/2009 1:37:50 AM • Johnson Minn... • 3,085 views • 0 helpful votes
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I need wiring diagram fer a older 110 hp johnson.

1967 100 hp johnson ob - starter wont turn over - maybe safety switch or solenoid ? need wiring diagram
4/24/2009 9:29:02 PM • Johnson Boating • 598 views • 0 helpful votes
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Sound post has fallen inside F style Johnson mandolin.

You may be able to help this prob. your self. You will need a set of hemostats about 10 in. long. A nickel sized dental mirror a flexible LED light . First of all unstring it , put strings a side.Next look in side to the under side of the top of your Mandolin .With your lite and mirror you should see a spot where the post was org. placed.Now with your hemostats reinstall the post. Now this is like building a ship in a bottle, but it can be done , but just a little at at time. You need to lift up the whole top. Remember the top did not drope down all at once, nor will you rase it up all at one time. A little eack day untill you have reached a perpendicular point . One more thing, you post fell because the insturmant was to dry.You need to keep it humidfided . Take it to the shower with you. dont get it wet let it soak up the steam, it will help you get the post back up right and it will love you four it. Get a humidfier for it OK
12/28/2008 2:00:24 AM • Johnson Ma100... • 599 views • 1 helpful votes
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Johnson MA-100 Mandolin

Go to - stewmac.com: Luthiers Suppliers. They have a "contact us" link and report your problem. They may be able to supply tuners that will fit or offer advice on re-drilling the headstock.
11/4/2008 6:58:27 PM • Johnson Ma100... • 275 views • 0 helpful votes
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Guitar strings on a mandolin.

Looking at your desired notes the mandolin is standard tuned to gdae.
So three of the four notes are already available, just put the "d" mando strings where the "g" ones would go and the "g" ones where the "D" ones would go the highest is already a "e" and I am sure the "a" would tune up to a "B" with little risk.
You can also
look at string sets made for the madochello or possbly octave mandolin.

Good luck,

The dude.
8/7/2008 1:17:06 PM • Johnson Ma100... • 599 views • 1 helpful votes
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