Jl Audio Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

here is a manual for your subwoofers: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/8-12W6_BDS.pdf

use the wiring diagram for 1.5? (1.5ohm) with 2 speakers. the diagram for 3 speakers will not work, because it would bring the load down to 1 ohm, and the amp cannot go below 1.5 ohm.

to set up the amp:

under "preamp output section", on the "output mode" switch, select "amp filter"

to set up the levels: start with the amp gain pretty far down- with the input voltage on low for line level outputs from the deck, and on high for speaker outputs from the deck. now turn your cd deck as far up as it will go until it distorts, then turn the cd deck down to just where it stops distorting. now, you can start to turn up the gain on the amp.

on the filters, youll prolly want the cutoff filter around 100hz @ 24db slope. start with the infrasonic filters off, but, if you do get into them, try centering between 30 and 60hz on either, and, possibly dropping the cutoff filter to 80hz.

You need to get another capacitor and wire it in series with the fist cap when you crank the volume your system is not getting enough power from the alternator this is called surge current. In modern electrical systems we use capacitors to compensate for these surges.

Check The Settings On The Amp.... There Is Probably a Setting Turned All The Way To Max on it. Is There 2 Rca Cables Hooked to It ? Try Switching them around And Seeing if It Gets Better Or Un Plug one of them And See if It Gets Any Better, Would Definitely Check The Settings On The Amp First to See if That your Problem. Hope This Helps :-)

Sub box is not likely to effect your door locks working.

It's 125 watts continuous @ 4 Ohms. As for how it sounds, it's jl audio, it sounds good and is a solid speaker speaker.

tinsel lead on terminal needs to be coated with a layer of black rtv sealant where it comes out of voice coil on back of speaker temporary fix since you have OVERPLAYED your subs, If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/stephen_fa62cb6d50fe05e8

Your amp has overheated. You need to pick a new place to mount it, somewhere with better ventilation, or you can buy a cooling device for it. The only other option is to play your music quieter because the amp cannot handle the power output you are requesting without overheating. The light will not go off until the amp's heatsink drops to a temperature level safe enough for normal operation.

1000/1v2 Class D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier Specifications:
　 1000/1v2

Rated Power:
1000 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm - 4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

THD at Rated Power:
<0.05% @ 4 ohm

S/N Ratio:
>95dB below rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz - 20 kHz noise bandwidth)

Frequency Response:
5 Hz - 250 Hz (+0, -1dB)

Damping Factor:
>500 @ 4 ohm / 50 Hz


According to the chart your amp is only stable down to 1.5 Ohms, so running at .75 Ohms the noise you are hearing is the amp clipping (running more power than it can handle at low ohms)
I would suggest wiring it in series, or you could adjust the gain on the amp until the popping goes away.

Hope this helps.

12 gage to 10 works the best

Good be a ground issue from the headunit. Try running the amp off another source (another deck, an ipod etc) See if it goes away then.

there might be a blown fuse that is hooked up to the sub's amplifier. if it is factory, look in the regular fusebox or under the hood, or (more likely if it is aftermarket professional install) look for a secondary thick (about 1/4 inch) power wire connected directly to the positive (red) battery lead with an in-line fuse very close to the battery.

if it is not a fuse issue, it could be the amplifier, or the speaker itself. to test the ppeaker, gently push in on the diaphram, checking for any uneven resistance or scratching/rubbing inside the speaker. the only resistancs should come from the diaphram's foam surround, not from the inside of the spaeker.

if the subwoofer will not move smoothly in and out for 1/2 an inch or so, without any scratching/.rubbing or uneven resistance from within, then the speaker's voice coil is likely fried from exessive volume or distortion in the signal. again, the speaker should move in and out perfectly smooth without any uneven resistance, rubbing or scratching from the inside of the speaker. if the speaker is very hard to move, seems to move unevenly or with scratchy resistance, or will not move at all then you have definitely found your issue.

to test the amp, you would have to replace the subwoofer with another of the same or higher wattage and the same or higher ohmage ratings. ohms are signified with an omega (?) symbol on the back of the speaker magnet. speakers with lower than proper ohmage could possibly blow the amp, and ppeakers of lower wattage could become damaged themselves, and occasionally take the amp out with them. unfortunately, there is no practical way to test the amp without replacing the subwoofer.

Nice amplifier. However it is best suited for speakers and not for sub woofers. Connect the plus (+) from speaker output 1 and the minus (-) from speaker output 2. Connect the plus (+) from speaker output 3 and the minus (-) from speaker output 4. Now the amplifier is in bridge mode, which will give you 300 WATT RMS at 4 OHM load. If you are bridging the amplifier to run sub woofers then do not forget to set the X- Over to LPF on the channels that you are planning to bridge. Whatever you do, make sure that the load you are asking the amplifier to play is no lower than 4 OHM. Playing this amplifier in bridged mode lower than 4 OHM is a recipe for trouble.
dreamsystems

Could be many reasons, Start from the top, disconnect all wires from your amp, then connect ground first, then live, power up amp and see if amp is on. then connect remote, then test, then speaker wires then test, doing this can rule out bad connections and usually find were your fault lies. dissconnect live from battery first before doing this, or if you have an inline fuse on your live check and remove that first.

if your foam has cracked then u must of had your speakers for awhile because it is called dry rotting it should only take about 1 day or less thankyoufor using fixya

Clean the area your bonding with rubbing alchohol. Use a fast cure 2 part epoxy. Make sure when you mix the epoxy and place it on the frame that you are accurate with the surround placement.

no but make the box ported if you cant get the box spec in ur trunk

The subwoofer is a dual voice coil sub. Each of those (+) and (-) goes to a voice coil. The sub can only be wired down to a 2 or 8 ohm load. For 2 ohm (which it seems like you want, so you can get the most out of your amp), you wire them in parrallel. Connect the (+) of VC1 and the (+) of VC2 to the (+) of your amp (I am assuming this is a monoblock amp), then connect the (-) of VC1 to the (-) of VC2 to the (-) of your amp. If your your amp is 2 channel, you can bridge them at the amp. (+) of one side to (-) of the other side. Series creates an 8 ohm load. (+) of amp to (+) of VC1 then (-) of VC1 to (+) of VC2, then (-) of VC2 to (-) of amp.

Send any damages speakers to these guys : http://www.speakerrepair.com/

The foam in critical to locate the magnetic cone correctly, silicone will not do that. The repair is quite reasonable and my speaks worked correctly when I got them back.

Sounds like you are running your subs at to low of ohm. Amps are rated differently on the levels of ohms or resistance that they can get to. If you have a dual 4ohm sub and run it in pairrell it will drop to 2ohm and if you run the same sub in series it will be 8ohm. Your amp will go into protection if the ohm is to low.

-david

Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.)