Jenn-Air Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

If you have your freezer overfilled especially where the vents are at it will cuuse moisture don't know if this will help but I had the problem

Obviously something is shorting out. Check all wiring.

The refrigerator portion is fed cold air from freezer section to cool it. Check for the freezer fan and/or the damper mechanism that directs air into fridge compartment for proper operation.

Had similar problem with my oven. Turn off the breaker to the oven/range and remove the panel which exposes the controls. You will probably find a burned spot on the pc board. Mine was where a spade lug plugged a wire to the board and caused by a loose connector at that lug. I hard wired/soldered the wire to the board (new board was $200+) and the repair lasted several years.

You have a short that trips the beaker .I would try a fan switch first .

problem thermostat call a technician for a proper diagnosis and replacement part

there is a solonoid valve at the back of the freezer section (externally) which should release 7 seconds of water into the ice tray to fill it.. the most common cause of leaking ice makers is that the valve freezes up if not much ice has been used.. and you simply need to thaw the freezer out overnight (put the contents in a cool box, or wrap it in lots of bubble wrap/newspaper and cool blankets to keep it frozen) that aside, there is a wire ice-stopper that goes up and down as the level of the ice rises and falls.. if it is in the raise position, the ioce maker won't do anything.. you can gently press it down, and things should start almost immediately.

First thing I thought of was that your pots have oil or build-up of some kind on the bottom. Try cleaning them with a solvent of some kind. As an experiment, try using a pyrex pot to see if that makes a difference. As for cleaning the cook top, I use a vinegar and water solution with a soft cloth or very low abrasive scrubber as you can scratch the glass quite easily on some kinds.

Yau say a few conflicting things. First you wonder if it blew a breaker, and then say you have power to the receptacle. If you have poer to your receptacle your breaker if not tripped. There are NO breakers Inside of the Microwave. Only 1 time fuses. So, if your init is dead it has probably blown a fuse inside of the unit. If that is the case. Probably shorted HIgh volt capacitor would be my first guess. If it is jsut dead. it can be other things than just a blown fuse. bad thermal protectors, bad low voltage transformer on main circuit board. Burnt wires. Anything that will cause it to lose power inside the unit. From bad parts to bad connections.

Highly likely your microwave has "failed". Down inside the microwave is a part called the Magnetron. This is the part, (about the size of your fist), that makes the sound waves to cook the food. On some models, it can fail, whilst all the other stuff works. 3 possibilities: 1) You need a fuse replaced. 2) You need a capacitor replaced (That part "starts" the magnetron) or 3) you need a new magentron. In any regard, very often people will not opt to have it repaired, because the labor & parts can cost more than a new Microwave. God bless your efforts.

Be sure the control is set to F* and not C*. always unplug electricity before attempting to repair on any electrical appliance

One or both of your oven elements are likely failing. I would replace them both. It's not hard job.

Before you go crazy just defrost the unit over night and then turn it back on. Possible e that the evaporator froze up due to the open door..Let it stabilize for at least a day and then check to see if all is copacetic.

Try the following : disconnect the power. Check to see that the coils in the back and or under the box are clean and unobstructed. totally empty and defrost. Let it sit empty and idle for 24 hours. Use a dollar bill to check the door seals on both refrigerator and freezer. If the door seals are clean and working well they should pull on the dollar as you slowly try to remove it from the seal all the way around the doors. Over time dirt can accumulate, Ice can form and interfere with proper airflow. Leaking seals can overwork and burn out the compressor. Hope that some of this will help.

Heating element or capacitor fuse

Ice maker most likely bad and needs replacing

Dear Genie, Well, you are right in your surmising! That water has shorted out perhaps as many as several items. One way to solve this problem would be to wait until the water dries up, could take days or a couple of weeks. Another way would be to take a hair blow dryer and dry the parts by blowing them for a while, perhaps 10 to 20 minutes, but to see if that fixed it, you would need to turn it on, which could cause a short! No good. Best idea is to take it all apart and see if there is visible damage, and to take and electric meter and test it all. God bless your efforts.

You have a fault in the controller module. I suspect a bad power supply capacitor is feeding dirty voltage to the control electronics. Unplug the range, then open the control panel (usually you get into it from the back). Remove the control module (warning: handle it only by the edges to prevent damaging the circuitry with static electricity from your fingers). You may not have to disconnect everything at this point; you just need to see the component side. Look for any electrolytic capacitors that have a domed top instead of a flat top. Normal is flat top; domed capacitors are burned out. Also, if you see a smaller electrolytic capacitor that has obviously had its can enclosure pushed off the base, that would be bad. See the photo for a comparison of bad (marked with red boxes) vs. good capacitors. These capacitors are relatively inexpensive to replace, usually less than $1.50 US from on-line sources. I recommend using the Panasonic FR series as the most reliable replacements. It should be much cheaper to pay a TV technician to put in the parts than to buy a replacement controller. Note: if this is what you find, and you want to take the module out for service, first go to a computer parts store and beg an anti-static bag from them. Make sure it's big enough to hold the controller including the keypad (keypad connectors can be tricky; if you don't know how the latch on the connector works you can damage the connector or keypad cable, so leave it attached and let your technician worry about it). I don't have the service info for your model, so I wouldn't know what kind of latch it uses without seeing it. Again, handling the module only by the circuit board edges or whatever mounting frame it is in, place it in the antistatic bag for transport. DO NOT USE AN ORDINARY PLASTIC BAG; these generate static charges instead of protecting from them.

You broke it!!!!!!! Check out the wiring associated with on/off cycle. There might also be a switch by the door designed to not allow unit to turn on when door is open - check it out. It might not be engaged if the inner panel of door is not properly hitting the switch.

The switch for the burner is bad and needs to be replaced. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a