JBL Music - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

In the USA, JBL G730 cabinets come with 1/4" connectors instead of Speakons normally. Either way, the switch on the rear of the cabinet on the crossover is a pad for the horn which lowers it's output. Normal is the middle position, upper the horn is louder, lower the horn is softer

The corrosion is probably due to humidity. The other issuses will requier it goes to the nearest JBL service center Customer Service

there could be something wrong with moisture. I had a drink spilled down the back of mine and I had to clean the board cause it kept blowing fuses.

Sounds about right to me. I have 2 eon G-15s. If you don't hear any cracking sounds you should be ok. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/phillip_293d34ebcf028794

I'd have to know the make and model mixer to properly advise you. In general, if I were you, I'd come out of the L/R mixer outs to the JBLs and run the sub from an aux send set to post faders. However, I would suggest getting a different sub. That one will not keep up with the eon's. You would probably need 4 of them to get close to matching.

Remove one of your shoes. This will cause you to lean slightly and therefore not notice the slanting speakers. It will also improve the quality of your recordings, with deeper bass and a clearer soundstage due to quantum grounding effects.

An acoustic guitar, unless it is an electric type, will need to be played near a microphone in order to provide a signal for the sound system and the microphone or the guitar will have to be connected to a compatible amplifier input. Impedance matching is not so important unless high quality is required but matching the sensitivity or gain of the input to the output of the source is important for optimum performance. A moving coil microphone has an output of just a few millivolts and a crystal microphone can produce an output of around one volt.

The connections are pretty straight forward, but it will depend on what amplifier you're driving them with. Normally, I'd connect the two TR to one side of a stereo PA amp and the two MR to the other side. All four cabinets are rated at 8 ohms, so running tow parallel per side would give you a 4 ohm load on each channel which would be a common load for most stereo PA amps. However all this would depend on your gear and what you need to accomplish. If what your question really meant is how do you connect all 4 to one channel, you can't as in most cases the total impedance would be too low and you'll fry your amp. If you can be more specific about your system we could be more helpful.

If your referring to removing the speakon connector you need to pull back on the silver tab on the top of the connector and turn the whole thing counter clockwise

It's probably a thermal problem with a component. You should take it into a repair shop as it is not user serviceable.

The screws are behind the cardboard of the woofer

Google it! Simple as that. Most manuals can be found online. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/phillip_293d34ebcf028794

Yellow is positive, yellow/black is negative.

Pay attention to the source of rattling, if its just the enclosure or comes out from the speaker and let me know to improve helping you out...

you are getting reverse polarity, meaning the speakers on one is the opposite as the other, black>red red>black, thus only getting vocals or music. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ernie_b93ee48ba0eab50b

Would you please add a bit more info as this tells me nothing, kind of appliance you are talking about, model number, speakers used, hook-up arrangement...

Mosfet, FQP27P06/FQP30N60 got fried in the power output stage, this is a common issue with JBL powered by Crown speakers, let me know more to help a bit more also.

Please illuminate me explaining the word "Muffled" means and i will be glad to help you out...

Since this is a bi-amp arrangement there's only 2 possibilities here:*HFdriver got fried or,*HF Ic amp, that if i remember correct should be TDA7293 went out.Let me know more to improve help.

First check the speaker with a multimeter.If it is OK, then check/repair the Class D amp that drives the speaker,up to the input stage.There are board part numbers printed on the PCB and some areavailable on line.Have a tech to guide you ,should you feel to Diy.