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The fuse link is a device that will open when over heated. If the exhaust temp is to high it will open and is a one time device. It can not be reset it must be replaced with a high temp fuse link made for the exhaust location. It will have a red mark on it indicating high temp.
Low gas pressure can cause a lean fuel condition that may cause the exhaust temp to rise enough to trip the link. I would also check for scale inside the heat exchanger. Scale inside the heat exchanger will not allow for proper heat transfer to the water, this will cause excess heat to be present in the exhaust. Proper water balance and flow are very important.

Jandy Pool & Spa | 83 views | 0 helpful votes


The low temp device is mounted inside the intake down below. Remove the large panel at the bottom, about a dozen 5/16" screws from the front. You will find the fusible link mounted to the back wall.
The second one is mounted in the exhaust near the top on the left side. Remove the top plate of the exhaust, 4-5/16" black screws and look down inside about 4 to 5 inches, on the left. The exhaust is the high temp fusible link.
You can test them with a meter to see if they are open or closed. I would focus on the exhaust link first and sometimes you can jump the link out to test the circuit. Only jump to test and not for usage or operation of heater.

Jandy Pool & Spa | 93 views | 0 helpful votes


Your unit is more than likely going into Defrost mode. The defrost sensor is mounted to the coil, should be down low on the right. You should get a new sensor and replace it. You have already replaced the board so the sensor is either bad or you may have another issue.
If the fan is not operation properly you are not getting proper air flow thru the coil, the coil can then freeze.
If you are operating the heater in very cold weather it could freeze.
If your coil is not clean and air can not flow thru the coil it will freeze.

Jandy Pool & Spa | 56 views | 0 helpful votes


Buy your self two new sensors, they are both the same. If your system if reading sensor open when disconnected from the board then your new sensors should do the trick.

Jandy Pool & Spa | 43 views | 0 helpful votes


What’s the issue your having. More info the better and pics help also

Jandy Pool & Spa | 64 views | 0 helpful votes


Need a new controller. May be cheaper to upgrade to IAquaLink and control through a smart device with the app

Jandy Pool & Spa | 103 views | 0 helpful votes


Low refrigerant or a bad sensor. Need a pro to look at it.

Jandy Air Energy... | 91 views | 0 helpful votes


start on page 17. this should be done by electrician. pump is 230 vac and there must b a different wiring to use 120 vac. Call an electrician, and stop replacing igniters.


https://www.jandy.com/~/media/zodiac/global/downloads/h/h0248900.pdf

Jandy Pool & Spa | 96 views | 0 helpful votes


check safety circuit and ignitor if glowing during cycling check gas also check pressure switch

Jandy Pool & Spa | 86 views | 1 helpful votes


possible low batteries or interference try changing to higher channel or raise antenna

Jandy Pool & Spa | 119 views | 0 helpful votes


check 4 pin plug in top of aqua link also check wires to antenna if ok inside antenna see if red and green lights blinking

Jandy Pool & Spa | 881 views | 0 helpful votes


Could be a shorted heating element

Jandy Pool & Spa | 294 views | 0 helpful votes


AGS means didn't fire correctly check gas if ok check flame sensor see if burn tubes blocked if ok bad flame sensor

Jandy Pool & Spa | 142 views | 0 helpful votes


not adviseable replace ignitor first check fuses if ok ignitor in box lower jandy changed and new should mount on burner and flame sensor relocates also

Jandy Pool & Spa | 219 views | 0 helpful votes


check to see if cord to controller is cut or wires by plug touching if ok try resetting if same try resetting with red plug unplugged if same bad control board behind buttons

Jandy Pool & Spa | 103 views | 0 helpful votes

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