Jandy Pool & Spa - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Possibly this may help... https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/iaqualink-says-service-mode.99426/ Best to all.

The fuse link is a device that will open when over heated. If the exhaust temp is to high it will open and is a one time device. It can not be reset it must be replaced with a high temp fuse link made for the exhaust location. It will have a red mark on it indicating high temp. Low gas pressure can cause a lean fuel condition that may cause the exhaust temp to rise enough to trip the link. I would also check for scale inside the heat exchanger. Scale inside the heat exchanger will not allow for proper heat transfer to the water, this will cause excess heat to be present in the exhaust. Proper water balance and flow are very important.

If you have checked the circuit breakers and they appear to be functioning properly, here are a few other things you can try:

1. Check the GFCI outlet: If the AquaLink RS is plugged into a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlet, make sure the outlet hasn't tripped. You can do this by pressing the "reset" button on the outlet.
2. Check the transformer: The AquaLink RS requires 24 volts AC power to operate. If the transformer that converts your home's AC power to the 24 volts required by the AquaLink RS is faulty, it can cause the system to fail. Use a multimeter to test the transformer to ensure it's supplying the proper voltage.
3. Check the power supply: If the transformer is supplying the proper voltage but the AquaLink RS is still not receiving power, the power supply board may be faulty. Check the power supply board for any obvious signs of damage, such as bulging or leaking capacitors.
4. Check the wiring: It's possible that a wire has become loose or disconnected, preventing the AquaLink RS from receiving power. Check all of the wiring connections to make sure they're secure and tight.

If you're still unable to get power to the AquaLink RS, it may be time to call a professional pool technician to diagnose and repair the issue.

1. Check the air sensor: The first step is to locate the air sensor and check for any visible issues. Make sure it is properly connected and not damaged.
2. Check the wiring: If the air sensor appears to be in good condition, the problem may be with the wiring. Check the wiring for any loose connections or damaged wires. If you find any issues, you may need to repair or replace the wiring.
3. Check the control board: The control board is responsible for managing the various functions of the pool heater. If the control board is malfunctioning, it can cause the air sensor to short out. You can check the control board by testing it with a multimeter. If you suspect the control board is the problem, you may need to replace it.
4. Check the air intake: If the air intake is blocked or restricted, it can cause the air sensor to short out. Make sure the air intake is clear and unobstructed.

go into system set up and turn on on remote

The problem is in your plumbing. Someone put a valve in an incorrect position. I would have to see a picture of your plumbing but if you can follow the flow of water. When you put it in spa mode, look at which valves turn and which ports open up. If it is doing anything other then sucking water from the spa and returning it only to the spa, then that is why it is draining. Again it would be great if you had a picture. What I have seen before is somebody plumbing in the pipe for a pool cleaner after the valve that send water to the spa. This would result in water from the spa slowly draining out of the pool sweep line. Good luck.

see if hooked up with 4 wire from heater to aqualink if so try checking wires for one loose or off if ok try to use the firemans swith to pins 1 and 2 then heater button will work

bad display board

That is because the return line to the spa and pool are on. This is expected behavior. This is to keep water circulating.

this can be a sensor (wiring) problem. It is imperative that the sensor wire is not damaged or corroded at the terminals. Unfortunately with this system, it fails on instead of off. check all the wiring for the sensor and replace if necessary. Check for continuity all the way from the circuit board terminals to the sensor itself to be sure.

replace water sensor that goes from board to header

I had the same problem. It was the gas valve whistling. try closing the gas shut off to the unit just slightly until the whistling stops. The heater should remain lit and functioning.

check the air switch hose make sure not pinched or hole in it then if ok make sure fan running correct speed

I would suspect that it is not the valve making the noise. I would bet it is the thermal expansion of the metal that you are hearing. Other than that, I have seen cases where there is a flow control valve, and depending on its operation, when it opens or closes on spring power it will over shoot and make a loud clicking noise as the clutch overshoots. This will usually only be about 2-4 clicks though, and around pool equipment I doubt you would hear much of it. I would bet more on the thermal expansion. Kind of like the clicking noise you will hear after you have parked your car and the engine is cooling down.

The best thing you can do is to clear the memory for the system this should be done once in awhile it is like rebooting your computer.

Here are the steps;
1. Press the menu button
2. Now press < button till System Setup is displayed
3. Press enter
4. Press < till "Clear Memory" is displayed
5. Press Enter
6. Press Enter
You will get a message saying " System Memory is being Cleared"
Once it is done the display will go back to scrolling mode

Now reprogram the system as you normally would

You should do this "rebooting" once a year it will make the system run alot better.
Aqualink systems can get a issue called "Ghosting" which is equipment will get programed to run all on it's own. We see it alot in the bigger systems (RS8 and up) for some reason. We are a Jandy warranty center have been for 10 years now.
Hope this helps

check with your local dealer . we have no clue

His is not typically a control panel issue but more likely a valve issue.

Your valves are set as follows wih a few minor variations.....
Pool mode- sucks from pool skimmer and or pool vac line and returns water to both the pool and spa.
Spa mode - self contains the spa , meaning water is sucked from the spa and returned only to the spa.
If your spa is draining then most likely one of your electronic valves is failing...most likely it's the return valve so what is happening is the water is sucked from the spa and returned to the pool instead of self containing the spa.
Easy check is to be next to the equip when spa mode is selected and two valves should move and align properly, the return side valve is most likely not moving or it is not moving into the correct position.
The fix is either adjusting the valve acuator or buying a new valve acuator.
Another thing to check is on the main panel circuit board to ensure the return and auction 3 pin plug ins are still connected.

WERE I YOU I WOULD ASK THE HEATER COMPANY OR THE JANDY

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